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Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by MTCK, Oct 25, 2001.

  1. MTCK

    MTCK Senior Member
    Messages: 346

    It appears the post I had about my exploded tranny has dissapeared and I had another question, so here goes. We determined before that the 3-4 gears clutch pack was toast, which would require removal of the transmission correct? This pretty much means pulling the motor also.... Not pretty much. This seems like a comon failure on these transmissions, is it possible to just replace the clutches without a full rebuild? I've never touched an auto tranny before, but have never had a problem doing any work on my pickup with good enough instructions. Also, is it OK to drive the truck with just the first 2 forward gears, or am I risking further damage to the torque converter or anything else. I was weighing my options, and one of them would be to put the truck on the barge to seattle, and drive it over here (about 300 miles) in second gear. It'd be an adventure, but I really don't want the shop at home to work on it again. The truck has 2.73 gears and 32 inch tires so it really wouldn't be too bad driving in second, but if it'd cause more damage, I wouldn't try it. Thanks guys.

  2. MTCK

    MTCK Senior Member
    Messages: 346

    Noe more thing before I forget. I've pulled the motor on this truck before, but never the tranny. Is it possible to remove them as 1 unit, or one at a time. Is it easier? This might also be the time to service the transfer case (208). It leaks out the tail shaft a bit, and probably has other problems I'm not aware of. Suggestions? Thanks,

  3. raceman6135

    raceman6135 Member
    Messages: 61

    Hey MT:

    Yes, you can do further damage to the transmission driving it if the clutch pack is bad. Pieces of friction material and/or small metal filings/shavings can cause all sorts of damage to thrust washers in the torque convertor, valves in the main body and in other clutch packs if circulated.

    It is also possible that the filtre inside the transmission will plug with "stuff," essentially starving the transmission for fluid, further compounding the problem.

    If you drive it much more, a full rebuild with new torque convertor is the only solution to the problem.

    Yes, it is possible to replace just frictions or steels in a clutch pack, but why would you? The biggest part of the job is getting the transmission out of the vehicle, and while in theory it may be a bit cheaper to try to replace just the immediate problem, you will probably find that other seals, clutches, etc. should be replaced at the same time while you're digging around inside the transmission.

    The transmission, engine and transfer case can be removed as one unit, but make sure you have LOTS of room and a good area to pull them. Your cherry picker will have to have the capacity to lift it as one unit, and it will also need a fairly high lifting height to clear the front radiator support.

    Round up a couple of buddies, too, especially if you haven't yanked a couple by yourself in the past.

    If you want to keep the truck and the current layout of running gear, I'd rebuild everything properly after you remove it. There's lots of labour involved in yanking an engine, transmission, et al, and I don't see it as a "shortcut" to fix it with baler wire and bubble gum.

    But that's just me...

  4. MTCK

    MTCK Senior Member
    Messages: 346

    Thanks Raceman, didn't think about the fact that, yeah the clutch material had to go somewhere.... Sounds like I'll have to do some repairs before moving it, or toss the truck on a trailer to get it over here. I know you usually deal with the rigs that drive off the rear wheels and go real fast for about 132o feet but do you, or anyone else for that matter, know any companies that sell transfer case overhaul kits? Price and time involved? Thanks fellas.

    Last edited: Oct 26, 2001