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6.0 tick

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by Sydenstricker Landscaping, May 1, 2010.

  1. Sydenstricker Landscaping

    Sydenstricker Landscaping PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,882

    Well my truck has developed a lovely tick now. Does it mainly at idle with no load on the engine. Once I put it in gear or take the rpms up some, it kinda goes away. It is pretty loud next to the truck and under it is really bad. With the hood open, you cant hear it though. I was thinking lifter or something along those lines, but with it coming more from underneath, that could just lead to bad. Never ran the truck low on oil, changed every 3k, etc. I am hard on it at times, but it gets babied most otherwise. It is close to rolling 162k on the clock
  2. buckwheat_la

    buckwheat_la 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,254

    check the exhaust manifolds, i have the same problem, and was worried it was something big, take it into the shop, and one mainifold has busted 3 bolts, once it was fixed tick was gone, apparently it is pretty common
  3. Sydenstricker Landscaping

    Sydenstricker Landscaping PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,882

    Not the manifolds, did the bolts last year. Got headers on it now so I know that is not where the issue lays. Thank you though!!
  4. buckwheat_la

    buckwheat_la 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,254

    i was hoping it might be a easy fix for you
  5. Milwaukee

    Milwaukee 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,180


    when engine is cold no tick? When it warm up Tick come?

    I would say it sound oil pressure low or not enough oil pump

    What oil weight you use now? 10w30? try 5w40 and see if it stop tick.
  6. Sydenstricker Landscaping

    Sydenstricker Landscaping PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,882

    Me too, but that isnt how my luck works out. At least it is 75 degrees out and not 10, lol. Much nicer to wrench in this weather
    Ticks cold or warm. Has the Chevy knock for 10-15 seconds when it is super cold, but that goes away rather quickly. The oil pressure in this thing is better than any other vehicle I have owned. It never, ever drops below 40 psi. I switched recently from 5w30 to 10w30. Ticked a lil more on the 5w30 then it does now. Thinking it is tired from 162K of nothing but work since it was new. The original owner was a roofer and I am the 2nd owner of it. Been a plow truck since day one as well. Cant speak for the previous owner's maintenance, but I think mine has been pretty damn good. Just a tired motor asking for a little love. Thank you for the help so far guys, please keep the responses coming as I want to pin point it as closely as possible before draining my wallet!!!
  7. Newdude

    Newdude Senior Member
    Messages: 889

    It could be possible that your valvetrain is getting tired. Could be a worn cam lobe or a worn lifter.
  8. Milwaukee

    Milwaukee 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,180

    You know that most roofer in Michigan aren't easy on truck.

    last time I see 2 2001 bang up F250 EXT Lariat with roofer stuff and cruise around 90 to 93 mph on I94 in Auburn Hill.

    Most time they only change oil once year because they sit during winter.
    Most time they buy new truck then straight to ground then sell to us.
  9. SnowMatt13

    SnowMatt13 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,559

    the 6.0's were/are classic for this.
    there has been a few service bullitens written by gm on this.
    it is a lifter
    my 01 did it, real loud when cold. if you called and questioned gm and complained a little they gave you a 100K full engine warranty.
    never had any problems with the 01 and my 05 has been quiet....
  10. 87chevy

    87chevy Senior Member
    Messages: 557

    Sounds like a lifter. My DD pickup is not a Chevy but it does it. Might just need tightening
  11. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Positive it's not coming from the bell housing Tom? The 6.0's have a habit once in a while of cracking the flexplate between the crank flange bolt holes and will mimic the sound of something loose in the valvetrain exactly, except it's much more pronounced from under the truck rather than from the top side.

    They'll also loosen a rocker bolt once in a great while too so as PM you may want to pop the VC's off and check them.
  12. mossman381

    mossman381 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,410

    My first check would be an exhaust leak under the truck. I know you said that it is only a year old. I would still check every connection that has a gasket.
  13. EFI

    EFI Member
    from NH / NB
    Messages: 62

    Lifter colapsing . Pretty easy to R&R your self . Put a new cam kit in it .
  14. Newdude

    Newdude Senior Member
    Messages: 889

    If he were to do a cam, then he would most likely have to do lifters and maybe pushrods due to long term wear patterns.
  15. Sydenstricker Landscaping

    Sydenstricker Landscaping PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,882

    It is a possibility too. I hear it more from under the truck than up in the engine compartment. Wish I had a camera with video and I would record the sound so everyone could hear it. But if it is the flexplate issue, how much of a PITA is that to do?? I guessing either the trans has to come out or the motor. Either way it wont be fun

    I am still doing cam and lifters though. The cam is sitting here in my office. Gonna buy parts as extra $$ comes available. Should have it all by mid summer. LS6 springs, GMPP lifters, ARP studs, gonna go with fel pro on the gaskets. The cam is a Comp Xtreme EFI truck cam, 115 degree LSA, .554/.558 with a .208/.212 duration @ .050
    Last edited: May 6, 2010
  16. Mick76

    Mick76 2000 Club Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 2,157

    It cost me a grand to get my flexplate fixed........
  17. secret_weapon

    secret_weapon Senior Member
    Messages: 437

    If it is the flexplate that is cracked and you don't want to do it yourself, give this place a call to see if it's worth them doing it instead of you. Not sure how close you are to them, but could save you some headaches.

  18. Sydenstricker Landscaping

    Sydenstricker Landscaping PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,882

    Lovely. Heck I can get the entire trans rebuilt here for 1400 bucks, new torque converter,etc. Look like a DIY job for me
    I will give them a call. Thank you for the info!
  19. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Either one has to come out to get at the flexplate. But no worries, it's nothing you can't handle. If it's rusty underneath pulling the engine is better, if it's not then pulling the trans is the better approach.

    Pretty stout lift figures for a truck but with the civilized duration numbers it'll work sweet even with the stock converter. That's one of the beauties of the stock converters, they're a little looser in the 6.0 trucks.

    Also, if you plan to leave the engine alone (except for the valvetrain of course) seriously consider upgrading to the newer LS6/LS3/L92 PCV system to cut down on oil consumption and intake contamination the LS1's are plagued with. Easy to do while you have it apart and only adds a little to the parts cost. It does require an internal block mod but it's nothing you can't handle if you have a Dremel tool.
  20. Sydenstricker Landscaping

    Sydenstricker Landscaping PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,882

    My truck isnt too bad rust wise with the engine or trans, so either one shouldnt be too bad. Just the trans weighs less than the motor. Been a good while since I took a trans out of a truck, last one was a TH400 out of a K20.

    It is a pretty big cam, but the duration wasnt too horrible and the power range it says is for 1000-5800 rpm which is fine for me. I didnt want to get too crazy with the cam since I dont want to swap converters or have my truck suck for working with. I hate this engine's oil consumption, so I will for sure be doing the mod. I do have a dremel, so that wont be an issue