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383 Stroker Buildup

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by 75gmck25, Jan 11, 2004.

  1. 75gmck25

    75gmck25 Senior Member
    Messages: 119

    I'm considering building a 383 stroker for my K25 and I'd like to get some opinions on a good setup. Most of the car magazines are trying to go for max horsepower, but I'm looking for good low rpm torque and horsepower, where I can use it for towing and hauling.

    - Base engine - 70's vintage 350 block, .030 over, checked for cracks and machined to clear the stroker rods.

    - GM Vortec or Edelbrock E-tec heads (Are the Vortec heads worth it? Every article seems to find they can get about 30-40 HP additional from these heads.)

    - 383 stroker kit - looking for about 9.0 compression or lower (or should I go down to 8.5?) (What is the best rod length?)

    - Camshaft with 204/214 duration at .050
    (What would be a good cam duration, considering that I want good low speed torque? Strokers can take more cam, but how much more?)

    - Edelbrock Performer dual plane manifold and 600 cfm carburetor

    - Headers, probably Flow Tech Afterburner, or similar design
    (Do the Flow Tech headers hold up well on a truck? I'm looking for durability, and they have a little bit thicker flanges than the cheaper headers.)


  2. 1977/85scottspecial

    1977/85scottspecial Member
    from Indiana
    Messages: 60

    I would get the vortec heads. They do help increase in both horse power and torque. I am building a 383 also for my 85 k20. The best rod length would be the stock 350 rod, 5.7". If the heads are too small chamber then dished pistons would help keep your compression down. I would reccomend the Edelbrock Performer EPS intake if you do not go with the vortec heads. I am assuming you know the vortec heads take a different intake since they are newer style. I would get a 4x4 cam or one with low-moderate lift with long duration, not sure on some numbers for you. Also, I have had good experience with Thorley Headers, they have nice thick flanges that won't warp. That should give you the torque you need. Hope this helps a little. Alex
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2004
  3. gt_racer50

    gt_racer50 Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 484

    Sounds sweet, I don't know what your plans are for the ehaust system, but we are running a Pro Chamber H pipe from MAC on our Mustang, it's about 25 hp and just flat rumbles, it evens out the exhaust firing.
  4. #1 plowtech

    #1 plowtech Senior Member
    Messages: 253

    Remember that the longer the rod, you must have the appropriate piston to match. (the pin height is moved toward the dome if using 5.7 or longer rod) .

    i WOULD NOT use the stock 5.7 rod because you will pay much more in pistons.
    to keep costs relative, use the 400 c.i. rods,with stock specs on 350 pistons (cast/hypereutectic/forged- dish or flat top),also remember you will have to use 400 c.i. harmonic balancer, flexplate,and balance the rotating assembly.
    Goodluck, Plowtech:waving:
  5. 86burban

    86burban Senior Member
    from chicago
    Messages: 130

    I have mixed feelings on the 383. I am getting ready to buy a 406 stroker from a co-worker for my Caprice. He had the 383 in an 80 malibu wagon and was running in the low 13's/high 12's. He came across a 400 in one of the cars for sale on the lot I work at and had it bored out. His last run before the wreck was mid 11s. I think the 406 has way more power than the 383, and the guy at the Chevy Shop thinks so too.

    Just my $.02

  6. 75gmck25

    75gmck25 Senior Member
    Messages: 119

    Thanks for all the suggestions.

    Just to provide some additional info on a couple of products I'm considering:
    -- Vortec heads and Edelbrock intake manifold package from Scoggins Dickey. They assemble the heads and check them out for you.
    -- 383 Stroker kit that includes the pistons, rods, crank, etc. I may have a little trouble finding one that's designed for 9.0 compression with 64cc Vortec heads, but somebody must make one. I want to buy it as a kit so that the pistons, rod length, crank and other parts are matched to each other.
    -- The 204/214 hydraulic cam will probably also be an Edelbrock, but several companies make a similar grind.
    -- Carburetor will be the 600 cfm Edelbrock with vacuum secondaries and electric choke.
    -- Headers will run into a 2" dual exhaust for now (since that's what I have), but I may eventually go up to slightly bigger pipes. I'd like to try using an X-pipe if I can fit it around the transmission and transfer case.

  7. porkhead1

    porkhead1 Member
    Messages: 70

  8. porkhead1

    porkhead1 Member
    Messages: 70

  9. 1977/85scottspecial

    1977/85scottspecial Member
    from Indiana
    Messages: 60

    What crank is that? It says 3.80" stroke. 400 crank is 3.75"....
  10. BRIAN11

    BRIAN11 Junior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 15

    Eagle makes decent cranks for what you are going to build. Their cast steel stroker version is cheap and is usally in much better condition than any used 400 crank that you will find. I would use a 5.7 Eagle SIR rod with either SRP or Silvolite pistons (I prefer the SRP as the piston to wall clearance can be run tighter). Try to keep the compression around 8.7 to 9.0. I have a 383 in my '84 Chevy that has over 100,000 miles on it and still makes 375 ft. lbs. at the rear tires. Hope this helps.