Hey all. I'm in the market for a new 3/4 ton I'll use for some tree work and to test the waters in the snow removal game. Looking to put a 8.5' V on it and wondering about rear axle ratio. My preference is a Dodge Ram 2500 (2006 or 2007 based on what I want to spend) and I want the 4.1 rear axle ratio as I expect to be hauling a skid steer in the next few months and want the additional towing capacity. Has anyone found that the added low range torque of the 4.1 makes an appreciable difference for plowing?
I am new but most of these plow guys want top speed more than hole shot. They lose traction before they need more power or lower gears. Seems 3.42 gives them a good top end speed of about 145mph.
3.73 are fine for plowing, deff. Don`t need 4.10 for that. To haul a skid steer the 3.73 will do that too. Just going from site to site you don`t need the 4.10`s. Buying used your not going to have the choice like ordering new. Buy the best truck for the buck. Both rears will get the job done. Good luck.
Hey all. I'm in the market for a new 3/4 ton I'll use for some tree work and to test the waters in the snow removal game. Looking to put a 8.5' V on it and wondering about rear axle ratio. My preference is a Dodge Ram 2500 (2006 or 2007 based on what I want to spend) and I want the 4.1 rear axle ratio as I expect to be hauling a skid steer in the next few months and want the additional towing capacity. Has anyone found that the added low range torque of the 4.1 makes an appreciable difference for plowing?
The 5.7 liter and 4;10 rears are an awesome combo. I'm on my third (05, 11, 14) and it is a nice balance. It makes a big difference when you've pushing a 9 foot of blade's worth of snow and hauling a loaded spreader. Traction's never an issue but then I run real winter tires and keep at least 1200/1500lbs in the hooper.
With the 4/6/8 in the 14 cruise control set on 65 and hauling a ton in the bed it'll still give me 17/20mpg on the highway. I saw 21+mpg running 100+ miles at 70 empty, get around 12 in town (I have a heavy foot) not bad for a truck with 4:10s
3.73 are fine for plowing, deff. Don`t need 4.10 for that. To haul a skid steer the 3.73 will do that too. Just going from site to site you don`t need the 4.10`s. Buying used your not going to have the choice like ordering new. Buy the best truck for the buck. Both rears will get the job done. Good luck.
A+. Buying a seven or eight year old truck within whatever your budget is, you're not going to have a lot of options as far as running gear goes. Find a good clean truck with either and you'll be fine.
Yeah, I don't see laying out an extra $20k for a new truck that will immediately depreciate and that will take a beating between plowing and tree work. But like y'all mentioned the used inventory with a 4.10 rear is seriously limited. Thinking I'll go with the 3.73 and if I need them put in taller gears later. Appreciate the insight.
Yeah, I don't see laying out an extra $20k for a new truck that will immediately depreciate and that will take a beating between plowing and tree work. But like y'all mentioned the used inventory with a 4.10 rear is seriously limited. Thinking I'll go with the 3.73 and if I need them put in taller gears later. Appreciate the insight.
Single axle, not including parts, most drivetrain shops charge $3-500 per axle. Also may need new bearings/seals while you are in there. If there is a carrier break in the gearing you will need a new carrier as well.
Single axle, not including parts, most drivetrain shops charge $3-500 per axle. Also may need new bearings/seals while you are in there. If there is a carrier break in the gearing you will need a new carrier as well.
Find your truck first and see how it plows/tows and then worry about gearing if you're not happy with it. A lot of the time a 3/4 ton will work fine for normal needs.
Quite a few... It's more a lack of time and pending projects.
It's really not a terrible job, some Dana axles are worse because they need the housing to be spread. (I don't have a spreader for a D60/70/80)
The biggest annoyance is shimming everything, and getting pinion depth set properly with the crush sleeve.
If you have a 3rd Member like a Ford 9 or a Toyota axle, just pull it and do it on the table
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