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2500HD 6.0L oil change...

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by mkwl, Apr 13, 2010.

  1. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,362

    Well, I've decided to try and save myself some $$$ and do my own engine oil changes. My truck has the 6.0L V8 gas engine. I just wanted to see what filter you guys recommend (I was thinking Purolator), as well as how much oil I'll need for each change? Any advise on how to keep from making a huge mess when changing it?

    Also- will I need a wrench to torque the filter in enough, or will hand tight do the trick?


  2. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    For filter use WIX, or NAPA Gold, which is made by WIX. Usually tighten the filter about a turn after the gasket hits the base.
  3. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,362

    Putolator's no good? I know that Fram is one to stay away from, but had heard mostly good things about Purolator...

    Also- how's valvoline oil? Anyone have any experience with their "150K mile warranty"?
  4. buckwheat_la

    buckwheat_la 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,254

    needed -oil filter wrench
    -wix oil filter (all oil filters filter oil, some just do it better!!!)
    -wrench for oil plug
    -1/2 hour of time
    -container to hold 5-6liters of oil (at least)

    Steps- run truck for 10 min, then park (let sit for a minute or two)
    - crawl underneath with container and wrench for oil plug, undo plug and let drain for a couple minutes
    -take oil filter wrench and undo filter, it well be full of oil so be prepared for that
    -take new oil filter out of package, look at rubber seal to make sure it looks consistent (i know someone is going to give me flack about this, i have installed a filter that had a poor rubber seal, the clean up sucks)
    -buy a good brand i like wix, fram is the cheapest one around.
    -dip your finger in the old oil, run finger around rubber gasket of filter lightly coating it
    -replace filter, and hand tighten, then give it a extra 1/4 turn (no more though, unless you want to have to destroy that filter getting it off the next time)
    -put oil in until it shows on dipstick above the add line
    -run truck for 2 minutes, the recheck dipstick, it should have went down (oil in filter) re fill to above add line
    -drive and the next fill check to make sure oil level is still good.

    My personal belief is that most conventional oils are pretty close to the same, they all have additives that make them better the others, some of these additives are gimmicks some are not. i personally just use a normal oil, and add amsoil additive.

    I hope this helps you out
  5. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,362

    Thank what kind of wrench do you recommend- strap wrench?

    How many quarts will this engine typically take- 6?
  6. buckwheat_la

    buckwheat_la 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,254

    strap wrench is ok, so is a actual oil filter wrench, both are cheap enough, we have a wrench made from a 3/4 inch square tube and a seat belt folded in a loop that is my personal choice. if you are going to be doing your own all the time, i would just buy a case of oil, i believe about 6liters on your truck, if you do it the way i described though, it won't matter, i have seen the same model engines fluctuate in the amount of liters they take, by about .5 liters
  7. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,362

    Thanks for the info...

    Also- I'm going to be changing the oil in my Bobcat mini-skidsteer this weekend... I see you have some diesel equipment in your sig- I've been told that 15W-40 is best to run in the diesel- has anyone used valvoline diesel oil before? Is it good?
  8. buckwheat_la

    buckwheat_la 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,254

    not sure on the diesel oil, both my skids use 10w30, the best i could suggest is talk to your local equipment dealer, ask their opinions
  9. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Valvoline is very good oil. I have used it for years and years. I started using the synthetic blend Max-Life formula a few years ago. I just put Napa full Synthetic in my Tahoe last week. I didn't have any luck with Amsoil, so trying Napa this time.

    I generally agree with Buckwheat's advice except for the running of the engine first. Idling the engine for ten minutes will never get the oil up to temp. If you go out in the morning, and the engine is cold, just drain it then. Otherwise, run it on the road for a good half hour or so, so the oil is nice and hot. Put it up on the ramps if you are going to use them, and shut it off. I like to wait an hour or so, to let the exhaust cool.

    Good luck!
  10. buckwheat_la

    buckwheat_la 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,254

    10-30min, muah, lets split the difference and say run it for 20 min, realistically, go for a drive, find a timhortons, get a coffee, go back to the shop, and do your oil change. 2cor517 is right however long you need to run it to make it nice and hot is good, then the 2 min sit time is for the oil to work its way back down into the pan
  11. BoyneCityGuy

    BoyneCityGuy Senior Member
    Messages: 143

    drain pan-the bigger the better
    new filter
    6 quarts of Valvoline
    15mm wrench for the plug
    strap wrench for the filter
    half hour

    i have run valvoline with no issues at all...so have my dad and grandpa forever...its good stuff.

    i have had a couple 6 liters and i just buy a case of oil and 2 filters at once. good for 2 oil changes and you dont have to constantly run to the auto parts store!

    have fun! its an easy way to save a little cash, and to get a good look at the bottom of your truck to make sure nothing is out of place.

    also a good time to grease the front end components :nod:
  12. deere615

    deere615 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,919

    yep 6 quarts 15mm wrench a strap filer wrench might want to have a bag of oil dry just in case. I have used fram and purolator. Penzoil regular and started usuing mobil1 synthetic in the HD. Also be sure to grease your front end when you do oil changes I always do. And yes like someone else mentioned dipping your finger in the oil and rubbing it around the seal of the new oil filter is a must something my dad taught me and i always do!
  13. BigLou80

    BigLou80 Senior Member
    Messages: 558

    I don't know why everybody here needs an oil filter wrench. I have been changing my oil since I bought the truck and have never needed anything other then my hands to get the oil filter off, if its hot I use a rag.
  14. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,362

    Thanks for the info guys- is there enough clearance to use a "pliers type" wrench on the filter? reason I ask is I need one of these for my Bobcat, and rather than buying 2 different wrenches, if I can use it on the truck as well, I'd might as well...

  15. Clint S

    Clint S Senior Member
    Messages: 280

    Agreed on the Oil filter wrench the only time I ever have to use one is on the first oil change of a brand new vehicle and the 1 time I let a quick lube do it. Just remember on the 2500 the oil comes out of the hole and hits the hot exhaust pipe right behind the plug. I usually do mine cold and let it run out over a half hour or so while I am puttering around. If you change your oil frequently enough and have no sludge I feel it does not matter.
  16. Newdude

    Newdude Senior Member
    Messages: 889

    I use either AC Delco fitlers or WIX. Depends on laziness lol

    As for oil, Mobil Clean 5000 5w-30. (gm reccomends it...if it cant be found...10w-30 is acceptable)

    Biggest tip: The drain plug is an inch or so...from the cross pipe from the left header. IT WILL GET MESSY!! Wipe it up unless you want to scare yourself thinking that you are burning oil. Oh, and if you have the skidplate, oil drips on that too. Dont double gasket the filter either or you will bathe your driveway.

    6 quarts and a filter...bit of time and you'll be all set.
  17. Sydenstricker Landscaping

    Sydenstricker Landscaping PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,882

    I always run Kendall synthetic blend 5w30 in my 6.0. Lately with the higher miles now, I am going to switch to 10w30. Been using a good bit of oil now. Slowed a good bit with the 10w30. I have always used AC Delco filters, PF46 is for the 6.0. 6 quarts is what they hold. Not sure if yours has it, but be sure to re-set the oil life monitor. Pretty sure it is press the gas pedal fully 3 times in 5 seconds with the ignition switch on, truck off. Or it could be 5 times in 3 seconds, lol. I just press mine a bunch and it works. There is just about enough room for a filter wrench, the one that goes on a ratchet. But I have always used my hand with no issue. Just keep some degreaser handy and spray off the exhaust pipe and skid plate, otherwise it will keep dripping and make a mess.

    NICHOLS LANDSCA PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 4,362

  19. Clint S

    Clint S Senior Member
    Messages: 280

    I think it is turn key to accessory and pump gas to floor 3 full times and it will say "oil life reset" on the display. I never go by the oil life monitor as 6 to 8 thousand on conventional oil is too long for me and that is what mine usually runs before it cones on.
  20. Tbrothers

    Tbrothers Senior Member
    Messages: 140