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2500 HD's

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by Moose's Mowing, Feb 6, 2014.

  1. Moose's Mowing

    Moose's Mowing Senior Member
    from SE PA
    Messages: 198

    I have an 04 2500HD reg cab, 4x4 6.0 automatic. Used to be my daily driver, then it started to become more of a work truck. Now it's a full blown work truck and it shows. I don't beat or abuse it, it gets reg maintenance and so far it's been pretty good. I have about 105,000 on it.

    Some of the issues I've had to fix:
    - Front wheel bearing (previous owner ran a plow)
    - Brake lines, new ones are stainless
    - Water pump
    - On my 3rd exhaust, this one's stainless
    - Couple sets of tires
    - Stupid gauge cluster STILL doesn't work most of the time. Had it rebuilt, checked grounds, had the computer re-flashed, changed ignition switch.....can't figure it out. This is minor but it drives me nuts.
    - I have a parasitic draw somewhere that I can't find and after sitting for a week-ish, both batteries are dead.
    - Rusty frame (addressed this when I had the bed off to run new brake lines). Major surface rust but nothing structural.
    - Tailgate used to pop open on bumps in the road but I fixed that.

    Got rear ended pretty hard the other week. Not much damage to the truck. Needs a new bed and tail light. This truck is my mowing/landscaping/construction/plow truck and the only times it gets used is when it's working, and working hard. Plowing beats the snot outta trucks. I hit a lot of curbs with my plow mount. I'm only running a 8' Meyer but I have 700lbs in the rear. Truck sits level, but the mount still smacks curbs when I'm stacking if I'm not real careful. Once I get tired, the hits tend to get harder. The parking lots I do are pretty easy on it, but the driveways I have, gotta be tough on the old girl. Tons of back and forth, tight turns in 4x4....they're just rough. When I'm plowing all day and night, I can't stop thinking about how bad this is has gotta be on the ol girl. But it keeps on going and doesn't complain one bit. I'm waiting for some major breakdown but I hope that doesn't come. One of the guys I sub with has a similar truck with a service body on it and runs a Blizzard. I think his odometer showed close to 200k miles.

    What are your thoughts on these trucks? I'm impressed, it's a great plow truck. I've done some driveways with it that really left me wondering how the hell I got them done. I worry about the transmission and t-case the most. Then the front end components and the front wheel bearings.

    What's your list of breakdowns or complaints with the 2500's?
  2. carkey351

    carkey351 Senior Member
    Messages: 229

    2500's are tough trucks, usually no major engine issues. they did have a problem with exhaust manifold bolts breaking off, once you replace them they are usually good to go. the only thing I'd say after rebuilding a 4L80e is that it does have a couple of design flaws and around 200k reverse likes to go out (at least on the 1 i rebuilt). treat the tranny nice and it will be G2G. the only other thing to watch for is the transfer case pump rub. once you install the pump fix it will be flawless usually.
  3. Moose's Mowing

    Moose's Mowing Senior Member
    from SE PA
    Messages: 198

    forgot to mention my manifold bolts, did that 3 times so far!! The new ones keep breaking though. These are the "dealer special" bolts too. Maybe I got bad joojoo. What's the pump rub you're talking about? Never heard of that before.
  4. Mark13

    Mark13 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,795

    I've got a 2006 2500HD. 142k, 5420hrs.

    In the past:
    2 wheel bearings
    Ball Joints
    Tie Rods
    Steering Box
    7 glow plugs
    4 shocks
    2 sets of rear axle air bags
    Passengers side cv shaft. Ice ripped the boot and it lived a short life after that.
    Brakes all the way around. Due for front brakes again in the spring.
    Front jounce bumpers on the lower control arms

    Front/Rear axle oil changes
    Trans service once a year, spin on filters every 10-15k.
    Tcase Pump Rub plate and service
    5k motor oil changes
    10-15k fuel filter & water separator changes.

    Ball joints
    Tie rods (Alignment as well)
    Leaf Springs
    Bunch of dash lights

    A full detail :D
  5. Fantastic

    Fantastic Senior Member
    Messages: 187

    Transfer case problem...


    Working link below... Not sure why it does work here??
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2014
  6. Fantastic

    Fantastic Senior Member
    Messages: 187

  7. 2006Sierra1500

    2006Sierra1500 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,758

    I have no issues with my 04 except for the starter..and the factory warning light button gets really hot.
  8. TMLGC

    TMLGC Senior Member
    Messages: 294

    The electrical dash problems are very annoying, SES lights for no reason and fuel sending unit causing the low fuel light to come on. I think this may be what is tripping the SES light although the code reads PO157 O2 sensor bank 2, sensor 2. This has been replaced twice but SES light still comes on shuts itself off between 3/4 and 1/4 tank that is why I believe it is related to faulty fuel readings.

    I bought truck from dealer 2 years ago it is 2000 6.0 with 130k now. Prior to sale dealer did all brake lines, fuel filter, steering box, oil cooler lines, window motor. Only thing I did in 2 years is oil changes and flushed coolant. I bought it with 119k, no idea what prior owners have done to it. Best looking and running truck Ive owned minus annoying electrical issues.

    Side note I had a 2002 Monte Carlo for several years that was plagued with faulty dash lights and readings as well. Replaced entire computer system via dealer and same problem occurred short time later. I gave up on that aspect of it but it ran fine.
  9. OH2500HD

    OH2500HD Junior Member
    Messages: 2

    TMLGC....on your P0157 O2 code...thats one of the most common on these...here's a test prcdure for ya..

    1. With a scan tool, monitor the O2 sensor voltages, they should all start at about 450 MV.

    2. Leave the ignition key in the on position. With the engine off, the O2 sensors should all drop low (around 100MV) after about 90 seconds (there is a lot of oxygen in the exhaust system without the engine running).

    3. If the bank 2 sensor 2 does not respond properly, verify that the Pink wire is 12 volts key on, the Black wire is a good ground, and the Tan wire is a ground when backprobed. If so, ground the Purple wire and the O2 voltage should go to almost "0" volts.

    4. If the wires check OK, replace the sensor and retest, the sensor should read 600-800 MV with a good catalytic converter. If it is switching or dropping low, replace the catalytic converter.

    Its possible you have a convertor going bad or a leaking exhaust manifold letting oxygen into the downstream exhaust which will cause voltages in tat bank sensor to read off scale..

    As for the OP.....My 01 2500HD has been rock steady for 77k miles....Thumbs Up
  10. xandrew245x

    xandrew245x Junior Member
    from PA
    Messages: 13

    I have an 08 2500, has about 121k on it. I bought it used, it was used as a plow truck before not sure what they had repaired on it before, but since owning it I have replaced.

    Driver side headlight wiring harness and bulb
    2 rear calipers
    2 rear rotors
    Pads all around
    passanger front rotor
    Drive shaft U-joints
    Abs sensor
    Oil change

    All brake related parts were due to rust.

    What needs fixed still.
    Sensor for integrated trailer brake system.
    Possibly an exhaust muffler.

    The good
    No surface rust anywhere on the truck body.
    Frame is undercoated already
    Bed is rhino lined
    Small amounts of rust on under body and engine bay

    I feel I should be pretty safe for now after those repairs, atleast I am really hoping so.
  11. larryhd

    larryhd Senior Member
    from vermont
    Messages: 213

    I have a 2003 Chevy 2500HD I bought new it has 161 on it now and only put 2 wheel bears and exhaust manifold once thats it been a great truck
  12. scottL

    scottL PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,613

    Comparing my 1997 3500 vs. my 2007 2500hd.... The 07 seems mostly better mechanically. Body not what is should be.

    07 80k
    -tie rods
    -oil and trans cooler lines
    -water leaking air vent, roof marking lights
    -coolant cross over
    -door weather stripping and mount from dissimilar metal
    -4 sets of u-joints
    -5 transfer cases
    -batteries, alternator, relay
    -dissimilar metal everywhere. rust repairs are a nightmare, body panels fine, braces bad

    97 120k
    -brakes, rotors on front
    -belts and battery
    -all brake and trans lines
    -normal rust, easy to fix
    -power steering pump