2013 2500HD Chevy snowplow charging problems

stallion81

Junior Member
Location
IL
Hey folks got a 2013 Chevy Silverado 2500HD no snow prep package. It had a 125A Bosch stock Alt and a small Duralast 660 CCA/95 reserve battery in it when I bought it(obviously not stock). Brand new Snowway plow and it suffered on pickup and movement with this setup, never plowed with it.

Before the first snow I did get a 160A alternator in it, but same battery as mine was waiting shipping(new X2). I plowed for about 2 hours plus and it was like WTF????? Never experienced this. Plow would not move side to side and dash volt would drop well below 14 and recover very slow. Not plowing with the X2 Batteries Plus is much better on dry run in the air, but still not gonna cut it.

How do you guys run it? I'm thinking about doing the "BIG 3+" and also a second battery in parallel, but just looking for exp with running these trucks and a plow. How the heck can these trucks be "HD" if they cant run a plow?

Any help appreciated.
 
my '04 Silverado 2500 HD has the stock 140 amp alternator and i added a 2nd battery and i'm just getting by. When you figure the plow, reverse lamps, strobe warning, heater fan on high, heated seats, dash camera, back up camera, running lights, stereo, rear defrost, wipers, power windows, phone charger, GPS.......it adds up. I'm sure it helps that my revs are up as i plow mainly in 4 Low and between properties i'm driving with tow/haul on. I ordered a 250 amp alternator about a week ago.
 

Randall Ave

PlowSite Fanatic
At the left front by the radiator, Is there a spot for a second battery? Run extra grounds, and you might want to install a larger cable from the alternator to the battery. What is the battery you have rated at?
 
OP
S

stallion81

Junior Member
Location
IL
My truck is actually pretty basic, doesn't even have power seats. I run a led strobe, blower on low, radio and occasionally wipers, and lights. The new battery is a X2(batteries plus) its ASM, start/deep cycle with a 137 reserve.
I haven't checked the draw on the plow as its brand new Snowway 29HD, dealer install.
My truck does have the 2nd battery tray. I was gonna do the larger alt charge cable, and also larger factory batt ground cable/larger engine/chassy strap(Big 3). I'm just unsure these trucks are regulated by the PCM in anyway, that it might help?
I guess today I'll round up the larger cables for those swaps, and some cables for a parallel 2nd battery. Just gonna be hard to choke down another $250 for another X2 battery, they do however have a full 5 year warranty.
 
OP
S

stallion81

Junior Member
Location
IL
OK, thanks guys here is where I'm at. Both batteries are brand new, well one ran in the truck 3 days before wiring in the 2nd battery. The main is a X2(775CCA) from Batteries Plus, 2nd is a Duration Extreme(760CCA) from Farm and Fleet, both size 48 AGM's very similar.



I got some 2/0 (same as #00 wire I believe) SAE J- 1127 rated at 105 degrees C. I cut to length and had "my plow installer" crimp the lugs on for me. Liquid flux and I soldered and shrink wrapped them all. I'm leary soldering electric, last time was my wifes 03 Tahoe's dash stepper motors, but hell this is like sweating pipe =) .



I'm Pos/Pos and Neg/Neg direct to batteries. I also changed the main battery to engine ground to this. Both battery wires are wrapped in plastic wire protector, however the engine ground is not as the "original wire" wasn't.



So what do you guys think about the 3 other thing I'm debating?



1) Alternator charge wire. Mine is probably 6 gauge. Go to a high quality 4?

2) Engine to chassis strap ground. Add another or change existing? Looks like it goes behind the engine on the driver side, I ran outta daylight so I cant confirm how hard the engine mount side is to get too.

3) Plow supply leads. These were obviously hooked to the main as I only had 1 battery on install. Should I attempt to move those to the 2nd battery? I'm unsure I have the length in the harness, but it would be easy to find out. Would it make a difference since the batteries are in parallel anyway?

The plow is new, do you think I might have a defective motor? My plow installer said the motor does not draw that much when I dropped the cables off for lug crimping. I'll check the draw tomorrow, but on a dry run in the air side to side seems alot better, and on idle these chevy's just wont produce a good charge.



Thanks for your time.
 

Philbilly2

PlowSite Fanatic
Location
Sandwich IL
First issue I see with your story here is that you do not have two matched batteries.

Everything can be bad from the factory.

It takes seconds to check plow motor draw And rule it out.
 

dieselss

PlowSite Fanatic
Location
N.w. Indiana
First issue I see with your story here is that you do not have two matched batteries.
Phil, I've been running 2 mismatched for quite a few years with no issue.
From 760 to 775 I wouldn't bat an eyelash

1) Alternator charge wire. Mine is probably 6 gauge. Go to a high quality 4?
That's always a help. Just fyi, somepeople will add a high amp fuse inline to the batt.....just throwing it out there.
 
OP
S

stallion81

Junior Member
Location
IL
How do I do a test at the plow motor again? Its been a long time as I never had issues with my 2500 Ram/Fisher plow combo. Can I do that with my multimeter? I assume yes, but kindly remind me please.

Anyway I think I'm probably good to go. Dry run in air side to side about 16 times and its good. Truck volt meter does go down, but I'm just at idle.

As for batteries, they are about as close as you can get. I just got the 2nd one for about $90 cheaper. And as for CCA, plowing I dont think correlates to that as much as AH/RC(drive time in between sure). The amp hours are 69 on both, and the reserve capacity is 137 and 125. I'm not plowing driveways here, its lots. My main lot can hit 3+ hours depending on snow. Its like 6 areas so not many 200'+ runs.

I'm learning more about these new Chevy's, and its the PCM that regulates the ALT, ie RPM's dictate ALT output. My truck does have a 175 AMP fuse from the + post to the Alt charge wire(stock and I wont change). I think I'm gonna change the ALT charge wire to a 4 gauge(good quality) and add a extra engine/chassis strap. But I will wait till after another plow event. See how she reacts real time now.

I might as well make the existing system have as low resistance as possible, with the money already spent. I should be able to get a good strap and a good 3' of 4 guage with lugs for around $30 I would imagine?

Thanks so much for your help folks. Coming from a 2001 dodge 2500 with a old MM Fisher, you would expect a 2013 truck to handle a brand new plow easily. Gosh darn computers.......thats why I love 79 ford f250's and 79 jeep cj7's....simple.
 

Philbilly2

PlowSite Fanatic
Location
Sandwich IL
Phil, I've been running 2 mismatched for quite a few years with no issue.
From 760 to 775 I wouldn't bat an eyelash


That's always a help. Just fyi, somepeople will add a high amp fuse inline to the batt.....just throwing it out there.

Yeah... I read it wrong. Missed the part about they are 3 days apart when I first read it. Typically on this site when people have 2 different brand batteries, they are not 3 days apart when the second one was added. I stand corrected on my previous post.

As for you amp check, does your multimeter have a clamp meter on it that does ac/dc?
 

Top Forums

Similar threads

Similar threads

Top