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2003 Ford F150 4WD not working

16K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  MickiRig1 
#1 · (Edited)
2003 Ford F150 4WD MSOF with Manual Transmission

Long time lurker here and just registered.

Old Problem

2 seasons ago I had a bad 4WD solenoid from water intrusion that cracked the housing and would not release the 4WD. That part I bought from Ford (#6L3Z 9E441) and included a re-designed hood to stop water intrusion and came with one solenoid (2wd). Put it in and problem solved. Pics below is for reference of the old cracked solenoid and the new solenoids with housing that was replaced 2 years ago.

New Problem

Now I have a new problem that I need help with. No more clicking sound heard from the cab when engaging 4WD high and no dash light light indicator for 4WD. 4WD Low Engages but still no dash light. Hoses seem to be okay and no cracks visible at solenoid. Fuse is ok.

Before I spend the money on a new 4WD Solenoid is there anything else that could be the problem? If the low does engage on MSOF, and still no dash light does this point at the 4WD Solenoid as the problem?

Thanks in Advance

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#3 ·
Do you have the manual Transfer Case lever or the Electronic Shift on the Fly (ESOF) switch on the dash? If you have ESOF, a very common failure mode is the electric motor on the back of the TC that shifts it. Sometimes you can free it up with a few light raps with a hammer. If it has totally frozen up, you'll need to replace it - which is actually a pretty easy job.
 
#5 ·
Too Stroked;1111266 said:
Do you have the manual Transfer Case lever or the Electronic Shift on the Fly (ESOF) switch on the dash? If you have ESOF, a very common failure mode is the electric motor on the back of the TC that shifts it. Sometimes you can free it up with a few light raps with a hammer. If it has totally frozen up, you'll need to replace it - which is actually a pretty easy job.
Manual Shift On Fly or MSOF
 
#6 ·
I'm assuming it has a vacuum pod on the front axle?
If it's anything like my 97...

Get the front off the ground and have someone pop it in 4x4 and listen for engagement....
or check vacuum there. That would be my guess.
Have you tried 4Lo for s%*s and giggles? You say it engages, but are you only engaging the rears?

W/out poping open my manual, i'm guessing based on where that pod is electrically located is what turns on the light.
Again, don't murder me, i'm just guessing while bored at work :)
 
#7 ·
quisman;1111322 said:
I'm assuming it has a vacuum pod on the front axle?
If it's anything like my 97...

Get the front off the ground and have someone pop it in 4x4 and listen for engagement....
or check vacuum there. That would be my guess.
Have you tried 4Lo for s%*s and giggles? You say it engages, but are you only engaging the rears?

W/out poping open my manual, i'm guessing based on where that pod is electrically located is what turns on the light.
Again, don't murder me, i'm just guessing while bored at work :)
Here is a diagram I just found online which appears to show the same vacuum hose route as my 2003 MSOF. I don't see any hoses going to a front axle. Do you have manual shift on fly or floor or is it electric? Maybe it is a different set up.

On second examination of 4wheel low, I found that it is not engaging. So there is no 4 wheel drive at all.

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#8 ·
I have the exact same setup as you. My 97 is a XL V6 4x4 w/ Lever shift.
Sucks...the thought of a lever means mechanical, but you're still relying on another device to get you locked in.
The easiest way to trouble shoot mine was to get the truck in the air so you can rotate the fronts.

I'll be working on my plow setup tonight after work...let me know if you want me to look at anything for you.
 
#10 ·
Remember, the lever only engages (or disengages) the Transfer Case. Engaging the front axle is a different matter. That's where the parts you mentioned come in - and they go pretty regularly.

Look at the bright side, you dont have to deal with the problems the newer (2004 & up) F-150's have with IWEs.
 
#11 ·
I'm hoping for you, your vac line just came unhooked like mine did once upon :)

Just be grateful you didn't develop an exhaust leak, melt the wire harness bracket and let the harness melt together on the manifold while on the interstate, taking out the ecm fuse, ecm, speedo wires, O2 wires, 4x4 wires....and requiring a complete rewiring in the engine bay....just saying ;-)

Let us know what you find !!
 
#12 · (Edited)
Thanks guys. I just read up on those 2004 and new problems with 4 x4. Yeah, I'm grateful to have the older system.

I found a post online that should help get me started. I have over 12 volts going to each solenoid electrical connection going there. I'm thinking the problem I had 2 seasons ago was corrected except the one solenoid that I did replaced ended up seizing 2 years later from water corrosion.

From what I have read, a good indication of a problem here is the absence of the dash light. You can get fancy and test them electrically (they should each have 12V power all of the time) but the easiest way is to put your fingers on the plastic caps and feel and listen for a click as someone shifts your truck in and out of 4X4. If they click - they are working! If not, this is likely your problem. It is a common problem apparently for these years of trucks to get water in the solenoids which then freezes and cracks them.
Here is some good info and part numbers if this is your problem
"The right solenoid (E8AE-9H465-AA) controls the vacuum to the return side of axle engagement diaphram. The left solenoid (E8AE-9H465-BA) controls the vacuum to the activation side of the axle engagement diaphram. Ford has been having chronic problems with water entry into these solenoids, corroding them from the inside and seizing them,as you've seen!>>
They've been redesigned and those old part numbers (E8AE-9H465-AA/BA) have been superseded.

The latest designs are listed as:
Disengage solenoid 6L3Z-9H465-A (identified by electrical connector rib at 9:00 position)
Engage solenoid 6L3Z-9H465-B (connector rib at 6:00 position).

3. Check your vacuum lines: This is a little tricky to do becuase they wind their way from the solenoids all the way to the 4WD actuator on the front axle. One hose leaves from each solenoid at the front (close side to the battery) and one is pink and the other is blue(greenish if older). Follow the lines down as best as you can, checking for spots with wear or rubbing. Also make note if they seem old and brittle as there could be a crack you don't see. Mine were rubbing a bit on the passengers side wheel well so check there. Now crawl under the truck and in the centre on the axle is the actuator diaphragm. It is under a cover that is easily removed with a socket and the two hoses are attached to it. Pull the hoses off and while the truck is on, and someone shifts it in and out, put a finger over the end of each hose. The vacuum should alternate hoses when shifted and the pressure should be equal although it is surprisingly not a strong pull. If your hoses look good and suck like I said, they should be all good (this also confirms that your solenoids, and vacuum reservoir are working as well.)

4. Vacuum actuator function: This is easy to check. Crawl under your truck, take off the cover for the actuator and watch as your friend shifts from 4X4 and back. When the truck is shifted to 4X4, the shaft should slide into the diaphragm, moving the lever it is connected to to the passenger side direction. When shifted back to 2 wheel, the shaft should slide out of the diaphragm towards the drivers side. The movement is about 2 inches total and happens smoothly.

If this works, then you may want to check to see if the shift fork (the lever that the actuator moves) is not bent or broken, or the pin that holds it in place is not sheared. It this all good, then maybe your front differential needs help?

If the diaphragm moves stiff and short, it is one of two problems: there is a tear in the diaphragm or the shaft has corroded and is stiff and needs lube. To check if the diaphragm is just stiff, assist the truck by pushing the shaft in an out by hand. This should engage and disengage the 4X4. When I did this, I engaged the 4X by pushing the shaft in but it was very stiff and hand to pull it out again with leverage from a screwdriver. Mine was just stiff and needed lubrication - which worked! If you can move it freely by hand, I would say there is a tear in the diaphragm and you probably need a new one. Try ebay -- they are $100 where at Ford they are $460!! Part number is F65Z-3G360-BA

Hopefully this helps and will guide some other less than mechanical people towards fixing a problem for cheap or free!
 
#13 ·
I always check on the Internet when getting major parts. Even when my Wife works at a Ford Stealership. I get her 25% discount on OEM parts. But they still are way too high! A medium to heavy duty truck parts place may be able to get you the OEM parts. Many carry the full Dana / Spicer/ Sterling catalog. Or can order it. For half to 2/3's of what Ford would charge. Same OEM parts, just cheaper.
 
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