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2000 C/K 3500 single rear wheel

4K views 16 replies 11 participants last post by  John DiMartino 
#1 ·
2000 C/K 3500 Automatic Trans problem

I have a 2000 C/K 3500 with a 7.4l gas engine. I have 92,000 miles on it and have towed a 16ft trailer 50,000 of it. The trailer weighs ~ 5K to 7K. In August I was towing 70 MPH up hill and it was hot. I have towed the 50,000 in overdrive. The transmission kicked me out of overdrive and locked me out of it. After the truck is turned off and turned back on the transmission will go to OD again. Now the problem is when I push too hard in OD the same will happen and it will go to what I call the safe mode. What might my options be. Is there a chance that I don't need a major overhaul. Do I have a burnt transmission. What is my best route to go from here. I need to put on another 150,000 mi. towing the 16ft trailer on the truck and will do so in the next 2 years.
 
#3 ·
Every manufacturer that I know of recommends staying out of OD when towing. That is a lot of miles to have on a truck in two years, but I think the fact that you were working the tranny so hard is probably your problem.

I don't have a solution other then to take it for service.

Reading your other post sounds like either you have a porrly made truck or are abusing the truck.

While I may be a Ford man I know that Chevies aren't that poorly made. Many people work the trucks everyday without problems. I think you are being to hard on the truck. Just because it will do seventy with a trailer does not mean to floor it to get there and then to jam the brakes to stop. I am not trying to tell you how to drive or that you are doing something wrong, but seems very odd that a two year old truck has problems like that.
 
#6 ·
It doesnt really matter how old the truck is, mileage is mileage. 92,000 is alot for a year 2000 truck. I dont doubt he is warping rotors and drums left and right pullin that big trailer. What CT said is true too, dont be forcing it to get to 70, then jammin on the brakes to slow down. Of course pullin that trailer put way extra stress on your auto tranny and brakes. Mike
 
#9 ·
As Chuck said your trailer should have a good braking system of its own - That is too much weight to expect your truck brakes to handle on a regular basis. As for comments regarding the single rear wheel 3500 - The 2000 - c/k series was still the old body style which came in a single rear wheel 3500. The 2001 model year which came out in 2000 was the new style in which the 3500 only came in dual rear wheel and the 2500HD became the new 1 ton single rear wheel model.
 
#10 ·
2000 C/K 3500

Getting back to your main question - Your truck should have a 4L80E transmission. I have owned many of these transmissions and can make the following recommendations:

1) Pull your transmission dipstick - Is the fluid blackish or does it have a burnt smell?

2) There have been a few electronic problems with this transmission causing similar problems and when you shut the truck off it resets and works fine. I have two trucks which have had similar problems or other downshifting problems for years. We always pull over - shut the truck off and it is fine to go again.

3) How often do you service your transmission? When you are pulling like this or doing heavy plowing my GM dealer recommended yearly service or 15,000-20,000 mile service intervals. Since we started doing this we have never had any more 4L80E transmissions needing to be rebuilt.

4) As was previously mentioned - Do not tow in OD. While you can find some mixed comments on this subject from different sources I have made the following interpertation which we use - Always tow in D or 3 (depending on your gear selector type) when traveling under 50mph. We only upshift to OD when driving over 50 and only on level ground - If we travel in hilly area's we stay in D and travel between 55-60mph.
 
#11 ·
Thanks for the feedback.

Yes I am probably hard on the truck. Would one of the new GM 3500 dually diesel's with the tow mode transmission be the answer? I noticed that the front hubs are different on the single rear wheel 1 tons than the dually's. Does anybody know if the bigger hubs have bigger rotors? Are the dually rear drums bigger than the single rear wheel 1 tons? The dually front hubs seem to be more heavy duty. I seem to believe that this will help me with the brakes. Will the diesel bring up my gas mileage from 9 MPG with the 7.4 l gas at 70 MPH to anything greater than 9 MPH. I have the low towing gear. I cover allot of ground servicing radio tower lighting in the 10 states I work in. I need to get from place to place. I believe there are 1 tons that can run 70 MPH in OD with a trailer. Maybe I need to slow down while I am climbing a good grade. I think I will take the advise of another post and install a trans fluid temp gauge. What would trading it in on a dually diesel change for me?
 
#13 ·
I will agree and disagree about using O/D. Only use 3rd if the trans is hunting for a gear, don't let it go back and forth or it will be junk. I always tow in O/D and service the fluid. I would bet you have a faulty solenoid or switch in the trans, plus I'm sure it could use a good flush not just a pan drop fluid change.
The brakes are the same on the single wheel 1 tons and the duallys. 13X 3.5 rear drums and 13 in front rotors. Make sure the rears are fully adjusted, most of the time they are not.

Now you asked about the new trucks so I'll give my opinion. With the miles you drive hauling per year you should have a diesel and if your a GM guy the new HD's with the D-Max are great.
 
#14 ·
If money is no object here - then I would agree with Joey and look at the new HD trucks. The Duramax will get you 9mph+ when towing and the Allison transmission blows away the 4L80E for durability while towing. Checking the adjustment on your rear truck brakes like Joey pointed out is very important and also checking the trailer brakes to see if they are adjusted correctly. Do you have hydraulic brakes with the sensor or electric brakes with a box in the cab - Either way if the brakes are adjusted properly you should feel the trailer braking on its own when you are on a steep grade and take your foot off the accelerator - If not the trailer brakes are not setup right.
 
#15 ·
While the rotors look massive on the duallies, they are infact only a bolt on wheel spacer. I dont know if they are larger or not. My best guess is that you will find larger brakes on the cab and chassis, than on the pick up duallies. Different GVW's and all.
The duramax with the allison will be a great up grade.
Dino
 
#16 ·
I would recommend the Duramax Allison for your needs. You will likely double your milage, and have way more power for those 70 mph hill climbs with a trailer in tow.

The newer ('01 +) GM's have rear disc brakes as well.

I personally like the '88-'00 C/K's body style and looks better than what GM is now offering for '03.

As for your tranny locking out of OD....Are you sure its doing this, or is it simply unlocking the torque converter? Your torque converter lockup clutch could be fried. The 4L80E is a very reliable transmission, and is much more suited for snowplowing than the Allison.
 
#17 ·
ck3500,your truck is fine for what your doing.but a diesel would be the way to go,IMO,since your running so many miles,in fact it may pay for itself, in fuel savings,you should crunch the numbers,it may be cheaper in the long run to buy a new chevy duramax now,especially with the 0% finacing now offered.You should not need to lock out OD,that is necessary with smaller motors,and the 4L60E trans,your tranny is more than capable of handling a 5-7K trailer in OD.I would keep it in drive until 55mph or so though when towing,just to keep from, lugging it.The rear brakes on a 3500 dually are larger than yours they are 13.5x3.5 wide,yours should be 13.5x3",the fronts are the same. Oh yeah,when you buy that diesel,get an exhaust brake,you'll only need your brakes for emergency stops,and under 20 mph.i have a pacbrake on my Cummins/Dodge,and i absolutely love it,even towing i never need the service brakes,except if someone pulls in front of me.
 
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