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1998 GMC 1500 3/4 torsion Bars?

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself to the Community' started by amfinest, Oct 4, 2011.

  1. amfinest

    amfinest Junior Member
    Messages: 1

    I have done as much research on this as I can getting info from people on the web and now joining this forum. My question is this; I want to put GK torsion bars in my 98 GMC 1500 ext. cab pick up, but I do not want to "Lift" it so to say. Everybody that makes comments about doing this, is trying to lift their truck. I am not trying to do this. I know that my truck could handle a 7'6" plow the way it is somewhat fine, but I just want the extra support under my truck. I know it will ride harsher of course, no doubt. Can I do this without the vehicle getting extra lift in it with my stock keys? They obviously make 3/4 trucks this same year that look about the same height that have these bars. do I need to get those keys or will they clock up just fine with what I have?
  2. vegaman04

    vegaman04 Senior Member
    Messages: 378

    If i remember, green keys for gm are actually ford keys. In order to lift a 2500 you would want 1500 keys. So i would say 2500 keys is what you want to NOT lift it. Someone else should chime in to verify.
  3. got-h2o

    got-h2o 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,440

    The bars will go right in and give you what you want. The keys will be a different story. Use your stock keys and see how you like it. It will be tighter, but not teeth jarring. I've done this on 2 trucks. They didn't ride like crap, they rode better than a 3/4 ton. A 3/4 gets a lot of its harsh ride from the rear. It's tighter than it is rougher. Hard to explain but you'll see what I mean if you do it.

    And Vegaman, you're right.
  4. Plowtoy

    Plowtoy Senior Member
    Messages: 929

    Why not try Timbrens if you dont want to lift your truck? They go in place of the stock bump stops (in most cases) and only are used when you have weight on the front end. I had them on a Jimmy that I plowed with and they didnt make the ride harsh and didnt need to be taken off in the spring. Their the best thing to happen to plow trucks if you ask me. www.timbren.com for more info
  5. sweetk30

    sweetk30 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,588

    i did a t-bar swap for a guy with snoway clear plow on his shortbed 1/2 ton and he went 2 over stock on the bar's for weight specs. i had to swap the tbars left to right sides when going to 3/4 ton stuff in 1/2 ton frame. or you cant get the keys to even come close to locking in.

    in the end he wasnt to happy as he had hoped by doing his own resurch on parts and i only installed. i even set the ride hight 1" or so over spec from stock. when he hooked the plow up he droped almost the same still.

    after all that work i bet timbrens or even air shocks whould have been faster/cheeper to install than the bars were + alignment and shop time.

    biggest ? to ask is are you running ballest in the back of the truck ? as ifs front ends drop a lot more than solid axle stuff so ballest is needed more so in them than solid axle trucks . but ballest should be used in all rigs for best performence.
  6. tonychavalia

    tonychavalia Junior Member
    Messages: 14

    I have a 1995 Chevy silverado Heavy Half Ton.

    After alot of research i figured out what my truck is. Basically the heavy half is the same as a light duty 2500 silverado (six lug wheels) minus the 4l80.

    My truck has the 2500 torsion bars and with my older Snoway the front suspension only drops about an Inch or so. My old 1500 used to drop about 2 inch or more.

    Ill looked at the bars tomorrow as see what model they are.