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1997 Cummins

Discussion in 'Ram Trucks' started by IA Farmer, Nov 28, 2005.

  1. IA Farmer

    IA Farmer Senior Member
    Messages: 410

    I am looking at buying a 1997 Dodge 2500 with the Cummins motor, it has 205,000 miles on it, it has new ball joints and a new lukes link, the body is a little rough its straight but there is a little bit of rust on the bottom of the doors, it is an auto with power everything. I drove it and it runs good it has the 47RE transmission ( is that good )? Anyway hes asking $7500 for it i will be putting a 7'6'' western pro plow on it. Is this truck worth it. Any other info. about the cummins would be greatly appreciated as I have never owned a diesel. Any major problems I should look for? Thanks Kenny
  2. BreyerConstruct

    BreyerConstruct Senior Member
    Messages: 132


    I could go on & on... I've got 4 Dodges, 2 are diesels. 1 is a 94 (same engine as your's)
    I love these trucks. As all things, they have their issues.
    Here's a quick heads up.
    If the tranny feels good, don't worry too much. it's a bit weak, but it can be fixed. Make sure it goes down the road pretty strait- this ties into the alignment and front end components. If it's rough, there's some joints, etc. to replace.

    Don't sweat the body stuff too much. My 94 has the door rot. Tomorow I'm planning on sanding it down, and coating it with Rust Bullet (RustBullet.com) It's the best stuff for solving rust from my experience, and they seem to prove it, too.

    The price is fair, maybe a bit high. but if it's been well mantained... It''s worth it.

    Oh, and for more info than you'll ever need- and help in case you need a hand, check out TurboDieselRegister.com. It's for Dodge/ Cummins owners.

    Hope this helps.


    Get a bigger plow on it! LOL
  3. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    Also check out doderam.org and www.dieseltruckresource.com.

    Cummins is an awesome engine- 47RE is the only tranny they offered for it and is a bit weak but can be corrected. (line pressure boost at lower RPM, shift point correction are the cheap simple helpers) The best thing is to take good care of it (fluid and filter and band adjustment every season end without fail and drive without the OD engaged unless you're over 1800RPM sustained)

    Rust is not unheard of in that vintage depending on the envrionment- my 96 is starting to rust at the door bottoms. Around me that's cheap (private party for my truck in "good" condition which is a little below mine's gradeing is $9400 per KBB.com).

    and yeah, but an 8footer on it.
  4. kgb

    kgb Member
    from nj
    Messages: 45

    Hey, Bud!
    I'm selling loaded '96 on ebay. Cleanest one around. ( under keyword type: dodge nj- the one with 83kmi)
    anyway, as long as you not lazy to get under once a year and use some Rustolium, same thing with waxing you should have clean TANK. I got under my new one (just got it 2weeks ago) and had to redo the retards painting job, they only spray little from the bottom- to make look good untill you leave the dealer. I have rust paranoia (i don't know proper way to spell), but this is what's killing break lines, electrical and bla, bla,bla....And i think it should tell you about the owner also...............
    Make sure to check front end: stabilizer, bar, joints...ets.
    Some of them have fuel lines breaking on the driver side of the engine, near fuel filter. It is a F!@#$ Bi!@ to replace them! Also, after warming up time, make sure that she doesn't smoke much. When they cold, they will smoke, it's OK. As far as trainy goes, they not the greatest ones, you pretty much just buying engine. Good luck!