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1996 chevy spyder injectors

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by the new boss 92, Dec 17, 2009.

  1. the new boss 92

    the new boss 92 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,989

    any one ever replace any of these? if so how hard it the job, and how long does it take?
  2. the new boss 92

    the new boss 92 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,989

    oopps vortec 5.7 and its a 1500
  3. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

  4. ahoron

    ahoron Senior Member
    from here
    Messages: 422

    Last edited: Dec 17, 2009
  5. prostk2

    prostk2 Member
    Messages: 70

    If your lower intake gasket is not leaking or if you don't have a lot of miles on the truck--then all you need to do is pull the upper part of the manifold off. This will also make it so you do not need to mess with the timing also. Good luck!!
  6. the new boss 92

    the new boss 92 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,989

    ok so i just need to take the upper intake off and everything will be right there? how are thoughs little injectors hend in? o rings?
  7. the new boss 92

    the new boss 92 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,989

    thanks alot that helped out a ton i think i am going to do the injectors on my buddies truck this weekend.
  8. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Make sure you use the newer actual electrically triggered MPFI injector spider assembly, do not replace the old mechanical poppet style with the same thing. Really helps in the power and smoothness department as well as ridding them of the sticky poppet issues the old styles had and have had for years. Price is about the same and in some cases less expensive anyway.

    Not a tough job but if it's your very first one I highly suggest following a shop manual. Correct procedures and torque specs are critical to the overall success of the job.
  9. chrisg00

    chrisg00 Junior Member
    from boston
    Messages: 6

    Great site. just joined this morning....love it
    I've done a couple dozen of these (GM mechanic). It's not too difficult. They are usually held in with plastic clips you pinch at the top of the injector (the clips are attached to them). Be carefull as the old ones tend to break. Just make sure you don't drop the broken pieces (if any) down the intake!
    A little finger of oil around the new injector oring makes for easy installation. It may blow a very small bit of smoke when starting but they go in much easier.
    Good luck.
  10. Thermos017

    Thermos017 Member
    Messages: 59

    that is true, however on a 96 i suspect you are going to see a lot of carbon buildup in the lower intake. i suggest you have the resources ($) available to pull the lower and clean it if need be.

    i've done several of these, and can do one (including lower) in a day. doing just the upper should only take about 4 hours if you've never done one. as previously mentioned, doing the lower requires pulling the distributor, as well as draining coolant and depending on the type of a/c bracket, that may need pulled as well.

    if you do the lower make sure you get the egr gasket too. thats where the carbon is coming from. if you clean up the egr valve and ports now it will save you having to pull it in the near future for cleaning. just be carefull what you use if you clean the egr itself... don't wanna use brake clean on it. i use qd, or air and a soft bristle brush.
  11. twistedwrench

    twistedwrench Junior Member
    from mn
    Messages: 2

  12. Thermos017

    Thermos017 Member
    Messages: 59

    @ twistedwrench, excellent tutorial... looks like you spent more time writing it up than it would take to do the work. just a couple of suggestions for it though; the part where you broke the quick disconnect for the heater hose at the front of the intake, i would replace that with a regular nipple and hose, as opposed to replacing the QD. reason being is that nobody makes a better version, and there really isn't much you can do to keep those fittings from goin to **** in just a few years. one little bump and you'll be doing it again. also, as far as the injector work you really are better off changing the entire unit to the updated version with the injectors at the end of the spiders as opposed to the injectors in the metering block. they are far more reliable, and if you have the bank to drop on it now it will save you having to repeat the repair every 2-4 years. sorry if this has been stated before, but its past my bedtime and i don't have time to check it all
  13. twistedwrench

    twistedwrench Junior Member
    from mn
    Messages: 2

    Hello and thank you.
    Although I appreciate your suggestions I would like to point out that it clearly states in my thread that I have replaced them before with standard hose fittings at customer request. It is always offered. Also, most aftermarket quick connectors are made from steel now.
    As far as the injectors go it also shows the new injector unit in the thread. Although I recommend replacing the entire unit with the updated version when necessary It is not always an option for some customers. Replacing 1 injector or feeing up a nozzle is the only option for them. I don’t do tape and wire repairs but I do offer the most economical repair when necessary.
    Many times the repair vehicle will be high mileage and approaching the day that they will no longer fix it. So dropping in a new spider unit isn’t a wise option.
    I’ve installed several new units but most of them have been in trucks that were being repaired by a local car dealer for resale.
    Freeing up stuck nozzles on the older units is very easy to do with a little solvent and a strong earth magnet.
    I’m assuming you just skimmed over the pictures and didn’t read any of the thread?
    I also did a thread on rebuilding the 4L60e if anyone’s interested.
    it might help someone out.
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2010
  14. Thermos017

    Thermos017 Member
    Messages: 59

    as i stated, it was way past my bedtime. so yeah, i just skimmed a lot of it. and thanks for the 4l60e link. i'm about to have to do that one on the wife's Bravada. not looking forward to it a bit, but your tutorial looks like it will help alot with some of the things i'm nervous about messing with. again, i'm in a rush and cant read it all, but i definately will before i tear into the Bravada.