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100,000 miles on my Duramax HELP NEEDED

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by yamahartx, Feb 8, 2011.

  1. yamahartx

    yamahartx Junior Member
    from Iowa
    Messages: 24

    I just replaced the pitman arm, idler arm, drivers side cv joint and wheel bearing assembly.

    I put a plow on my truck to use on my lane last year. This year I took on more work and just replaced the listed items in January. Since then I have plowed twice for a total of 23hrs.

    I put in a remanufactured cv shaft and after the 23hrs its crunching bad along with the passenger side. I do need to mention that I had a torsion key lift put on to stiffen the front of the truck at the same time as the rest of the work.

    My question is.....for those who have a torsion lift do you get more crunching from the shafts or am I in need to a NEW cv shaft for both sides? Was the $100+ down the drain on the remanufactured shaft?

    Two reasons why I decided on keys. I have air bags in the back and it raised my truck 2". So with chevy's already facing the ground in the front I had to do something. The pour truck looked like it was dieing with the plow on it. What I thought would be a quick fix might be costing me $$$$?

    Thanks, Brent
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2011
  2. Holland

    Holland Senior Member
    Messages: 605

    Might be a good idea to take it down a bit. You dont want to run around with the suspension maxed out. Good chance you got a bad cv joint. Ive had remans be bad right out of the box. Heck, one didnt even have any of the rollers in it!! I'm not a fan of reman cv joints. Brand new ones arent that much more.
  3. carkey351

    carkey351 Senior Member
    Messages: 229

    sounds like a piecemeal lift kit...probably not helping things..as easy as the cv shafts are to change it wouldn't hurt to change the other side too. One thing to check would the be front driveshaft u-joints and the transfer case as I though I had a bad drv side cv and it turns out it was the t-case making the noise..

    reman cv's are all that bad; at least i have 10k on one so far...just got to trust the source I guess.
  4. JerseySnow

    JerseySnow Junior Member
    from 908
    Messages: 14


    REAPER 2000 Club Member
    from 60050
    Messages: 2,230

    Why the bags in the back?
  6. woodchuck2

    woodchuck2 Senior Member
    Messages: 304

  7. yamahartx

    yamahartx Junior Member
    from Iowa
    Messages: 24

    The idler support is a good idea, just wasn't in the budget. Hopefully in the near future.

    The keys are probably a cheap takeoff. Picked them up on ebay. The torsion bolts are just over finger tight so they wont fall out. So no turning them down at this point. Also had to cut the stocks out so no going back until I purchase a new set.

    Thanks for the link to the cv shafts, that will be my next purchase.

    The new shaft stopped all crunching for a very short time, I hope its not the transfer case. The passenger side did it ever so slightly and decided not to replace it that time around. Now most of the new crunching is coming from the passenger side, but the rebuilt shaft is also crunching again every so slightly.

    The air bags are on my duramax for hauling my 27' enclosed trailer. Also once in awhile for my construction business we load it up with gravel, rock, equipment. Just wanted it to never squat.xysport And it don't!
  8. woodchuck2

    woodchuck2 Senior Member
    Messages: 304

    I didnt bother with keys, i cranked my ECSB up 5 turns and it seems to carry the blade fine. My RCLB was cranked when i got it, how much i do not know but it sits higher than my ECSB. I have never had any axle issues, only one wheel bearing on the ECSB in 110k miles and i had to replace both on the RCLB at 52k miles. Other than that just outer tie rods. I did opt for tie rod sleeves though, wise investment IMO. I know they have saved me more than once already.
  9. plowking35

    plowking35 2000 Club Member
    from SE CT
    Messages: 2,923

    Its probably a junk reman cv shaft. I went through 3 reman power steering pumps before I got 1 that lasted more than a month plowing
  10. stacks04

    stacks04 Senior Member
    from ct
    Messages: 119

    FWIW, I have a crew cab diesel, I have bags in the rear for towing and for hailing sand/salt in the winter. I have installed the 1500 series torsion bar keys and have them cranked pretty high. They are an offset position to the 2500 stock keys and set the bars higher then the 2500 keys. All total I can get about 3" out of my front end if I cranked them fully. They are at 1/2 now and I experience zero noise fron the front end of my truck except the tires rubbing on the liners. The front diff bearings are notorious for going bad on these trucks but would produce more of a grinding sound not a crunch noise.