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04 HD2500 Front Brake Lines RUST

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by Cosmic Charlie, Sep 15, 2010.

  1. Cosmic Charlie

    Cosmic Charlie Senior Member
    Messages: 237

    Mine were so rusty crusty from the ABS unit under the drivers seat on the frames rail to the front suspension area they finally failed, They look really rotted. Should I get OEM GM lines prebent or just bend up lines as I go ... ? and does bleeding this system require a pressure bleeder vs the old pump the brake peddle method ? any thing else I should know will help ! To bad they don't sell LONG rubber flex lines-might be an easier install ...

    I'm guessing the rear brake lines are next, My brakes are all original with 102,000 miles, so soon I'll need a full brake job, front & rear pads & rotors & emergency brake pads and cables, & possibly all brake lines ... Maybe do it all NOW ? and at what cost ?


    Just had the water pump, thermostat, tranny cooler lines & power steering pump, Fuel lines don't look so good either ...\

    What else will be next ?

    Man - this truck is rusty ! Maybe time to upgrade / or just keep fixing it ? It does run good though ! Drive train is fine - fluid changes are current ... Exhaust is original & solid ... Alternator bearing has a squeek when cold, whats an alternator cost ?

    What else ?

  2. brad96z28

    brad96z28 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,525

    I do them alot I never have to do anything special to bleed them. They always come out perfect some will say u will need a scan tool but I have done maybe 15 of these and never had to use one on a 2500hd. Just make sure to use a good line like coated or nikel copper easy to bend and does not corrode easily. 1/4 in tubing is not the easiest to bend. I doubt they sell the lines from the dealer, I always bend them up one at a time. I cant tell u how many time I have seen where someone has spent all the time and effort to do the lines and use non coated lines that will rot out again in a few years .:dizzy: Do the brakes and brake lines and drive it its better then big payments.
  3. t-sig

    t-sig Senior Member
    from 607
    Messages: 121


    I had the same experience with rusty lines. I blew the line along the frame to the rear axle, looked at the rest, they were all shot. Replaced them all. Not a terrible job, but, you will need a line bender and a double flare kit. You have to re-use the OEM fittings where they tie in to the master cylinder and the ABS unit unless you buy adapters or OEM lines. I blead the system the old fashioned way with no problems. If you want to get all the old fluid out, then you need to activate the abs motor, but, I didn't bother. I also had the tranny lines go, what a pain in the a55 to fish them in place.
  4. buddymanzpop

    buddymanzpop Senior Member
    Messages: 603

    Charlie, like t-sig mentioned, check your tranny lines, I also just replaced them on a 2004 Sierra, spring a leak in one of them in the middle of a night time snow storm and by the time you realize it your truck won't be moving. Replace what's needed, it's better tan a new truck payment.
  5. tracerich

    tracerich Member
    from Earth
    Messages: 33

    Use the copper nickel tubing, it's available in 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8. And get new tube nuts. No special tools needed to bleed hopefully, as long as things go well... Regarding the fuel lines, if your going to keep the truck, I recommend replacement with nylon fuel lines, and be done with it. This is a project, where it's like plumbing. Start on one section, and end up on another due to all the rust. Never know what your going to have to replace when you start. Might as well plan on changing all of em, brake and fuel. If it needs brakes, nows the time to do that. Get it all done all at once and stimulate the economy.
  6. the new boss 92

    the new boss 92 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,989

    as much as i hate to sat it, if you know it needs it blow youmoney and do it now, nothing is cant get worse than a tow bill at 3 in the morning plowing and lossing 700 for that night, been there done that not fun at all! do the breaks an lines maybe 300 bucks depending on what you buy, check the tranny lines and possibly fuel lines. little hit ill give ya if you need to get to the top of the sending unit get a couple guys and lift the bed with a couple 4x4's. gm even recomends it!
  7. Burkartsplow

    Burkartsplow PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,246

    just did all of mine. blew one at a stop light and was very happy i stopped. driver side lines by the wheel wells. Worst spot ever.
  8. MrErk

    MrErk Junior Member
    Messages: 3

    When the lines started going on my '88 I bought a complete set of pre-bent stainless steel lines. I think it was about $250 for a complete set. I got them from Classic Tube. www.classictube.com

    Stay away from the OE pieces. You'll just have the same problem again in a few years.
  9. Cosmic Charlie

    Cosmic Charlie Senior Member
    Messages: 237

    Had my friend do the front brake lines with a 20' roll of copper nickel, ran continuous from the ABS unit under the seat on the frame rail to the flex lines at the caliber, used about 16'.

    Took him about 3 hours doing it alone - all good now ...rear brake lines are not too rusty yet !

    now my alternator makes an occasional quick squeak always at start up & sometimes while running- maybe the bearing going - just wait & see ... the belt is new and the belt tension-er looks ok ... charges excellent

    truck has 102,000 and the brakes, exhaust, & alternator are original ! also original is the fuel lines, fuel pump, & fuel filter ... wait and see !