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Zert fittings on a Wideout!!

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by probee, Jan 14, 2012.

  1. probee

    probee Member
    Messages: 37

    A friend of mine just bought a new Wideout and I noticed he had 3 zert fittings under the pivot bar area. I also have a new Wideout and I do not have any grease fittings on the pivot bar. My question is, do the new Wideouts have this grease fittings in this area?

    Thanks
     
  2. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    The new "fleet flex" wide-outs" have a whole different pivot bar assembly that includes a grease zerk on each end. I have an old style wide-out too and I put my own grease zerks on the pivot bar ends and on the main blade pivot point as well. Not sure why your friend's plow has 3 zerks and why they are under the pivot bar. There should be 2 and they should be on the top side. You can tell the old style from the new by looking at the truck side of the pivot bar. If it is tubular (closed in on all four sides) then it is the old style. If the back side, or truck side, is open it is the new style. You will also notice that the new style pins on the end of the pivot bar are secured with cotter pins while the old style are secured under a carriage bolt on each side.
     
  3. probee

    probee Member
    Messages: 37

    Thank Mishnick....I believe my plow was built in May,2011 should i have the new style pivot bar?? I do know he does have the secure pins and was just wondering when they started to switch things arounds..

    Thanks
     
  4. fabcraftinc

    fabcraftinc Member
    Messages: 69

    I think build dates of apprx. 10/15/2011 should be the new style pivot bar. You can replace your bar with the new style. I would keep your old style greased or anti-siezed for a few years and replace it when it needs it. I am guessing it is $200-$300 process.
     
  5. probee

    probee Member
    Messages: 37

    I bought this Wideout in Dec.2011, I was just curious if I should have gotten the updated pivot bar?Is there a difference between the two except the ability to grease the bar? You would have thought i would have gotten the newer of the two seeing I just bought this plow.
     
  6. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    I don't know when they started building the new version, they just started showing up without notice. We recieved two orders of wide-outs this past fall that were the old style and then suddenly the third shipment was different. I suspect that some outlets may still have the old style if they ordered all their season's inventory early. Bottom line here is that there was no cut off date, it was just the luck of the draw. Western didn't want to get stuck with any old style inventory so they just didn't tell anyone or give them a choice of what kind they would get. The dealers were the same, they just sold the oldest first until they were gone. Personally I have mixed feelings about the new "big box" plows. We call them big box because they come in two pieces or two big boxes. All you have to do is mount the blade & headlight and the plow is built. Sounds good at first but after the first time you have to do it you realize how difficult it is. I have found the best way to assemble the two pieces is to lay the blade face down on the floor and then suspend the other half with two different length slings hangning from three points so that it hangs in such a way you can get the pivot bolt in. If you don't have a crane it can be a real bugger to get them assembled. They used to come as blade, AQ&L1, AQ&L2, hydraulics, and headlights. Two guys could easily assemble the old kind but not the big box. Other than that the new Fleet Flex (big box) has the two grease zerks, different pivot pins and pivot bar and enhanced security / programability. The security thing deals with a programable pin code that you enter on the hand held controller. If someone steals the plow but they don't get the matching controller they can't run the plow without the code. You can also turn on and off the soft stop feature and make the plow go directly into float mode when you tap the down button just like the joystick controllers do. At our shop, even befour the new version came out we were installing grease zerks on the pivot bar and on the blade pivot bolt as a courtesy so the only thing people gained was the programability. I personally think that the old style pivot bar and pivot pins were better and stronger especially when you added your own zerks. However, with the new pivot bar, it is much easier to change the configuration position. That is meaningless if you put it on a truck and leave it for years but people who want to be able to switch plows from truck to truck appreciate it.

    Something to note though is that you can order the new pivot bar and pins and put it on an old version of the plow.....

    Last point on this topic.... the next big change will be the arrival of the new multiplex straight blades. All the new generation of Western plows will have two cables at the grill like the MVP+, Wide-out and HTS. They will have the same greaseable pivot bar and the security programming but they will not work on the old two plug system or the later three plug system. The big advantage will be that you will be able to connect any plow to any truck with the multiplex two plug wiring.
     
  7. probee

    probee Member
    Messages: 37

    Thanks for all your input!!! Oe last thing..I guess I have the older style pivot bar,but I DO also have the Security code. Does not seem like a big deal though.. Sounds like adding a couple of grease fittings would be a good idea!! Thanks
     
  8. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    Being a western service tech I STRONGLY recomment the grease fittings. I have serviced sooo many old ultras that have had seized pivot pins. It is very hard on the pump to have to lift the weight of the plow and overcome the resistance of stiff pins too. If the person who built the plow was to lazy to use anti sieze of at least a bit of grease when it was built I garuntee they will be a problem in two or three years. It is so easy to install the zerks too, you don't have to take the plow apart, you just have to pull one carriage bolt on each side to push the pins out far enough to drill your hole. Then tap the hole and thread in the zerk... done! If you have the wide-out, while you're at it, drill a hole into the centre of the blade pivot tube too and put one zerk there. It takes me about / and hour to do all three on a new build so we used to do it for free just to prevent the guys from comming back with this problem down the road. As for the security code, I don't even know anyone who has used it yet. The last thing people want is to have to remember some code when their controller gets smashed or fails and they have to replace it in the middle of the night when white gold is falling. The soft stop and auto float option might be nice though. Not that I have dissabled or enabled either of them. My wide-out works great just the way it was built.
     
  9. sns250

    sns250 Member
    Messages: 87

    I also got a new wideout this year in November. It is the older style I believe. I am interested in these grease fittings, do you happen to have any photos of the placement you use?

    Thanks
     
  10. Fourbycb

    Fourbycb Senior Member
    Messages: 578

    I too have the older wideout without the grease zerks any photos would be helpful
     
  11. snocrete

    snocrete Banned
    Messages: 2,862

    Ditto........
     
  12. snocrete

    snocrete Banned
    Messages: 2,862


    Was at my western dealer 2day, and saw a couple new ultra mount plows with the zerks. I didnt have my camera with me, but when I go by my shop later, I will take a pic of where I will be putting the zerks(same location as what the factory is now doing).
     
  13. snocrete

    snocrete Banned
    Messages: 2,862

    The nut in 2nd pic is where the zerk will go.............BTW, thanks for your input in this thread "mishnik"!!!

    PICT1437.jpg

    PICT1438.jpg
     
  14. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    Great photos guys, that is exactly where I put mine. I first took out the carriage bolt that holds the pivot pin in place and pulled it out just enough so that I didn't drill into it or hit it with the threading tap. Then I made a punch mark in the middle of the free space there where the nut is in snowcret's photo. Next I drilled a 1/8 pilot hole followed by a #7 drill (best size for the 1/4" NF tap) and then threaded it with 1/4" National fine threads. The zerks I have are pipe but the 1/4 NF seemed to fit and I didnt' have a pipe tap. While I was at it I also took my pivot bolt out (on my new wide-out) and drilled the same kind of hole in the side of the blade pivot tube and put a zerk there too. That is something even the new version of the plows doesn't have but I think is an awsome upgrade for so little effort.
     
  15. snocrete

    snocrete Banned
    Messages: 2,862

    Thanks again mishnick:salute:......when I spoke with the "head tech" at the dealer 2day, his comments were almost identical to your postings in this thread.