1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Would appreciate help/comments on old Western Plow

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by thinairflyer, Oct 19, 2005.

  1. thinairflyer

    thinairflyer Junior Member
    Messages: 28

    I'm curious about some things on this old plow. Best I can tell after looking at the pubs on the Western site I have a US65 which was a conventional mount. I have attached 3/4 x 4" blades to the frame with the attachment patterned after the attachments shown on the Western pubs. The blades slide into sockets made of 3/8" material with the front, top and bottom made of 1" x 1/2" material. That will allow me to remove all of the plow if wanted or I can leave the lift frame on. It is probably overbuilt, but with no engineering analysis I don't want the mounting to break. I still have a few more gussets to add to the mount and lift frame.

    This old plow has apparently been on several vehicles, the lift frame shows many cuts and adds. I'm wondering if the lift frame is even Western or another brand.

    When the plow is raised, the bumper sags 1 1/4", the fender well at front wheel is down 7/8" and the fender well at rear wheel raises 1/4". Is this acceptable? I will probably add 100/150 lbs of ballast. I can feel the weight on the front.

    With the push frame parallel to the ground there is not much room below it. Is this normal on this frame? When the plow is lifted the rear of the lift frame is really only about 4 to 5" off the ground. Is this normal with this frame? I'm wondering if the rearward piece of angle iron on the push frame is original or an add-on.

    I'm also wondering how high off the ground the bottom of the blade should normally be when lifted. Right now it is about 11 1/2". If I move the chain attachment point back about 3" I get 14" clearance.

    I will be renewing the chain attachment, it does not look too good as it is.

    And last, is the cutting edge one that is designed to turn over top to bottom? Otherwise it looks like it might be on upside down.

    Pics at: http://home.centurytel.net/ldw/

    Thanks for any help, L D Walker
  2. finnegan

    finnegan Senior Member
    Messages: 313

    since your a decent welder i would lower the mounting ears to be even with the a frame-straight off the back of it -it will change the geometry of the plow but shouldnt have any ill effects....
  3. thinairflyer

    thinairflyer Junior Member
    Messages: 28

    Thanks, I had thought about doing that, the ears sure look high. I wasn't sure though if it would be okay to have the rear of the push frame above level.

    If I turn the cutting edge over though, I will gain about two inches or so there which should bring the frame back near level I think. (until these rocky roads wear it back down)

    This is the second plow I've had, so was not sure if the cutting edge is upside down or just made to turn top for bottom when it wears.
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2005