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Wont go to the right

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by 76CHEVY, Dec 13, 2008.

  1. 76CHEVY

    76CHEVY Member
    Messages: 51

    Ok here is the deal

    Western unimount, it goes up and down just fine and will angle to the left just fine, but when going to the right it takes a long time and at times you have to push on it to get to move back to the right,

    I have change the fluid twice cleaned out the rams,hoses,valve block, replaced all the valves and coils. the only thing i have not replaced it ther ram and the drivers crossover relief valve.:confused:
     
  2. paynter2

    paynter2 Member
    Messages: 41

    I have a similar problem with my new Western. I sold my CJ-5 with a Meyers plow. Bought a new truck and put a Western on it last month. We're due for nearly two feet of snow today and tonight. Yesterday I put the plow on the truck - first time since I brought it home from the dealer.

    It doesn't work. There's pressure in the system so I think there must be a stuck valve someplace - all the plow does is kick right an inch or two. It doesn't matter what direction I try to go with it - it kicks right.

    So, here I am, 30 miles from town. I have a brand new plow that doesn't work and two feet of snow on the way. With the Meyers I could have jacked the plow up and shortened the chain to limp to the dealer. Not so with this one. I think I'm gonna need a tow.

    Western - :realmad:
     
  3. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    Poppet check valve not opening.
     
  4. paynter2

    paynter2 Member
    Messages: 41

    Thanks - I figured a valve was stuck. Is this something I can tackle myself? The plow is new - never used. Maybe I should make the dealer fix it... I'd sure need it right f'n now.
     
  5. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    This is a NEW Uni-mount? Sure its not a Ultra?

    Chances are its a broken spring. If its under warranty then let the dealer do it since your going to have to go there to get parts. Should only take them 15 minutes.
     
  6. paynter2

    paynter2 Member
    Messages: 41

    No - it's a Suburbanite. This is why I can't 'short chain' it to bring it to the dealer. They don't make a 'real' plow for my truck.

    It is brand new - I brought it home a month ago and it sat on my garage floor until yesterday.

    It's a damned long drive to the dealer with the plow chained up by the light bar... But, I don't have anyone to help me put it into the truck bed or onto a trailer and I can't lift it by myself. IIRC, the dealer has a towing service. If so, he can come and get it.

    Thanks for the help.
     
  7. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    Understand the long drive, anyplace that even works on them or has parts closer? Doesnt have to be a true dealer.

    Heres a link to the mechanics guide if you want to take some time a chaeck it out. Click on the 3rd one down, yeah i know, it says ultra but its the same pump. Page 11 will give you a good idea of what your looking at. Going to need a long pair of needle nose pliers and a thin magnet stick to make it easier.



    http://www.westernplows.com/publibrary.asp?cat=247
     
  8. paynter2

    paynter2 Member
    Messages: 41

    Thanks for the help Crash. I'm 30 miles from the nearest town - that's where my dealer is. It's snowing like holy hell right now. We have a good foot on the ground.

    I can drop the plow and drive the truck to the end of my driveway. I have to be at work (200 miles away) on Tuesday. So, I can shovel the truck out when they plow the county road at the end of the drive.

    This will leave the plow in my garage 100 feet from the road with all the snow - not only is there supposed to be a total of two feet, but we have 30-40 mph winds. I wish I could contact the dealer to see if it was alright to drive with the plow hung on the light bar by a chain. But, I can't contact him until tomorrow - too late. I have to move the truck, to the end of my drive, right now.

    As for tearing apart the valve assembly, I hate to tear stuff apart when it's under warranty. Dealers can be pretty adamant about that - as soon as I start to work on it, it becomes my fault.

    Thanks again for the help. I'll let you know how it turns out. I'm assuming I'll have to pay someone to plow me out ($60) and the cost of a roll-back to haul the entire rig to town.

    I'm really disappointed with Western right now - I'll probably get over it. If nothing else, we'll see what kind of customer service and warranty they have.

    I'll keep you posted. Thanks again for the help.
     
  9. 76CHEVY

    76CHEVY Member
    Messages: 51

    Crash935 My poppet valves are brand new i thought the same thing. the only thing i did not change was the drivers crossover and that was only cus i could not get it out. The guy i got it from must have put lock tigh on everything. The only thing the would be left is the rams.
     
  10. paynter2

    paynter2 Member
    Messages: 41

    76CHEVY - I used to have an old Meyers. It was so worn that it was slow in all directions. But, IIRC, I had your problem once and it was caused by air in the cylinder - you might try bleeding the right cylinder (again).
     
  11. 76CHEVY

    76CHEVY Member
    Messages: 51

    ok so i figured it out today after talking with a friend. All it ended up being was a bad quick connect. It kinda pissed me off, one of the most simplest thing that i never thought of. I guess you live and you learn. plus i know that that unit should be good for a few years now....knock on wood
     
  12. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    This is where you threw me off then, if it has couplers its not a uni mount but a conventional (pump and lights stay on the truck?)

    Glad you got it fixed though.
     
  13. 76CHEVY

    76CHEVY Member
    Messages: 51

    its a conventional converted to a unimount hydro system. I said unimount cuz i figured that were the problem was in the hydro unit.