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Wiring Extras

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by GeoffD, Jan 23, 2000.

  1. GeoffD

    GeoffD PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 2,266

    Tru cuts fues problem gave me some info i should share with you.<p>Up to 1992 i never worried about wiring warning lights and other extras on my truck. Only in 1992 i had electrical problems with my 89? F 350, i mean i had some serious electrical problems. Anyways the bill at the ford dealer came to 1500, total parts was 30. The reason it cost so much if i would splice into the vehical wiring because people had done it for years. Well it took the dealer a day and then some to figure out everything i had done, and find the trucks problem. Anyways on newer trucks it is even more important you do a good job wiring. This is what i do now.<p>When i buy a truck now i get the 7 wire tow package. Then it is easy to add a break controller in the cab. <p>When adding something as simple as a warning light this is what i do. First i buy the wire, wire loom, terminals, ect. Then i design a circut to run the extra. Before i run one wire i put all the wire(s) inside the wire loom, this will isolate your wiring from your trucks. I also lable the loom so i know what the wires are for. This way if the truck has an electical problem the dealer know what the extra wires do, then can quickly determine if they effect the truck or not, compared to splicing everywhere. When i put back up lights on my truck i run them off the trailer plugs, 7 wire has a back up function. On the v-box spreader you just plug the back up lights into the trailer plug and your good to go. On my trucks with out v-boxs, i built a bracket that slides into the recieve to hold the back up lights, then they can be removed when not in uses.<p>Use liquid electrical tape on all your connections, even if they are in wire loom. Liquid tape cost like 5 bucks at napa, but seals terminals. Any wiring i have done useing these methods as yet to fail.<p>These are just a few ideas, make your wiring neat and clean and you will be glad you did. I also use a lot of wire ties so the wire loom isn't moving all around. It takes more time then splicing but it's worth it. Note i haven't had an electical problem on a truck after 1992.<p>Geoff<br>
  2. plowking35

    plowking35 2000 Club Member
    from SE CT
    Messages: 2,923

    Very good point by Geoff<br>Also with all the electronics on board now, tapping into the wrong spot could cause a computer problem.<br>Remember the truck will be working in the worst of conditions so all coonections need to be 100% water tight.<br>I have severall dealers near me for plows, one is really cheap, but his installers are ?? at best.<br>The other charges a little more but the work is top notch. Guess which one I go to.<br>My buddies 95 F-250HD had a wiring harness fire and it will cost 9800 to fix. Ins. is paying so I am sure they are getting screwed, nontheless is was caused by a plow hook up. Positve line fron battery to solenoid shorted out when it rubbed through on a frame rail. Wire ties are cheap.<br>Dino<p>----------<br> Professional Ice and Snow Management <br>Products:Services:Equipment www.sima.org
  3. Tick

    Tick Junior Member
    Messages: 4

    Wiring and dealers. I just got a plow put on 2 weeks ago and my goodness is the wiring job bad. Just to mention a couple, The positive lead for the plow goes directly to the battery and has a ring terminal. Well, instead of removing the bolt and putting it through the eye they cut the terminal making it a 'U' and slid it onto the bolt between the clamp. Well, now the clamp on the terminal cannot close all the way and the entire terminal was loose. The bolt is also too short and the nut was not fully engaging the threads.<br> Instead of putting the cable through the firewall through a rubber grommet (that is there OEM, no cables at all) they pried the boot grommet which is several inches in diameter and put the cable through. Now the cable is rubbing against the sharp metal edge. Oh yeah, the way I found it is I was wondering why the engine sounded so noisy and I felt cold air on my legs. I looked by me feet and saw light, I mean I could fit 4 fingers in the space!<br> The real kicker was Thursday, I go to raise the plow and it moves 3 inches and then stops. The plow lights go out and the relays for the headlight switch (and the plow) are &quot;buzzing&quot;, the plow motor now does not work. My dashboard is doing all kinds of interesting things when I actuate the plow. I get to the dealer 5 minutes before they close and they have never heard of this before. They toss me a new relay and ask me to try that. After whining again they never gave me the installation instructions I get a set, and eye up the wiring diagram. Well I try the relay, of course that wasn't it. Taking a look at the wiring diagram I see it has to be a bad ground. I look at the battery for the plow ground, it ain't there. I find it attached to the body. I look in the instructions, it says put it to the battery. I remove the ground wire and it's on top of paint, I have no idea how it ever worked. Well I yanked all the plow wiring and did it myself. Glad I paid for a &quot;professional&quot; to do it. Sorry for my rambling and whining, this thread just came at the wrong time, it took a long time and it's darn cold outside and slightly peeved :)
  4. plowking35

    plowking35 2000 Club Member
    from SE CT
    Messages: 2,923

    You echo my thoughts exactly. That is why I payed a little extra for the guys who do it right. You figure these guys get about 250 to install a plow, and that means at 50 an ahour they have 5 hrs to the job. WhenI install a plow it takes that long to do the wiring alone. So you know they rush the job.<br>They plow makers know this and are trying to make the job easier all the time. Fisher has gone to a separate central control box that means no tapping in at all to the vehicle harness.<br>You should contact the manufacturer of that plow, and they may refer you to another dealer for repairs. And they should want to know who is hacking their plow installs.<br>Dino<p>----------<br> Professional Ice and Snow Management <br>Products:Services:Equipment www.sima.org
  5. GeoffD

    GeoffD PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 2,266

    The Fisher I-Force wiring does include taps. It is the only possible way you can get a your plow lights to work, the current isn't going to jump from the truck lights to the plow lights on it's own. What they did was tap into the truck lights, and feed the current back to the box. The box has a bunch of diods in it. When the current is fed to the box, box draws amps from the battery and lights the lights. The i-force cause only a .05 amp draw of the truck lights, instead of like 5 amps when just taping. At least this is how it looks on my F 650. They didn't tap into the wires them self, but used an adapter plug into the truck's harness. When ever you get a plow wired into a truck, there is going to be some different wiring opperations. I am lucky to have equipment dealers that do a great job, both the fisher and diamond dealer are great.<p>Geoff<p>
  6. Alan

    Alan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,393

    When I wire for extra backup lights I wire them through a relay and a SPDT toggle. I don't like runnign the 12 amps that two 50 watt lights draw through theh small contacts in the factory backup light switch. I wire from the factory switch to one side terminal of the toggle, then out the center terminal to the relay. Then I run from the power in terminal on the realy to the other side terminal on the switch. Now I can have the lights come on with the factory backup lights, or I can turn them on full time, or not have them come on at all. I'm starting to get in the habit of installing an auxiliary fuse panel to handle the extra wiring and feed it with a direct line from the battery. I also use a fusible link right at the battery, just in case that auxiliary feed wire should get shorted to ground. (Had one vehicle fire,, that was enough for me) If I was the sort ot forget and leave the auxiliary stuff on I would put a 50 or 100 amp continuous duty relay in the feed wire and energize it off a hot lead from the ignition so it would shut off with the truck.
  7. yortengel

    yortengel Senior Member
    Messages: 123

    I became the electrical guy at my shop because I could find no one to fix or install electrical items properly. I like to ues the terminals that the vehicle usaully come with for extra Items. There is all kinds of good electrical supplies to make a good job of any install not far from me. Makes life easier.