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wiring coils

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by cutbetterthanyo, Nov 15, 2010.

  1. cutbetterthanyo

    cutbetterthanyo Senior Member
    Messages: 134

    I have a mm1 sehp pump and am tring to figuare out what i need. I have the headlights covered. And the big wires for the hot and ground. My problem is the wires from the coils there are a blue, green, and white with orange stripe. They are the right, left, and up; right? Then there is a black with orange stripe linked to all the coils that is the ground, right? I have been told that i need a ISO Module to make it all work. Every thing i reseach on the ISO Module talks about the lights. Is this what i need? Does it just control the lights or the lights and coils. Can the coils be wired any different way like relays, or something. I would like to keep this project simple and cheap. I would rather use things from a automotive/hardware/electic store rather than fisher stuff, due to the fact there are no plow shops near me. If i break down during a storm i am relieing on my knowledge of how to fix it, and the parts i can get quick. thank for any help you can give.
     
  2. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Yes you can build your own control harness thus omitting any use of an Iso mod but you'll still need the controller itself unless you want to make it much more complex to do by using generic toggles.

    Blue - S3 coil
    Green - S2 coil
    White/yellow (not white/orange) - S1 coil


    Coil functions are:
    S1 - lower
    S2 - angle right
    S3 - raise
    S2 and S3 simultaneously - angle left

    And yes the black/orange connected to all coils is ground.


    The fact that for angle left you need both the S2 & S3 activated together but keeping them separate for the other functions, plus having to also activate the motor relay for three of the four functions is why using a factory controller is much much easier and quicker.
     
  3. cutbetterthanyo

    cutbetterthanyo Senior Member
    Messages: 134

    So i can buy a fishstick and wire it right to these wires (nothing in between), correct? Or find a toogle that can send power to the right buy itself, up buy itself, and then togeteher. I just don't understand when you send power to the right, the coil opens a valve that lets fluid in, pushing the cylinder out. How does the fluid leave the left cylinder when nothing is opening.
     
  4. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Yes using a handheld is the best approach and that's what I'd recommend. Easier that way, no need for multiple switches and diodes and a maylay of jumper harness's to perform the functions the handheld will do for you. Gives you the smooth stop feature the handhelds have too.

    There's more to the hydro circuits than just the valves themselves. Specifically speaking about the right angling you mentioned, as fluid enters the ride side ram it also opens the pilot poppet valve (via hydro pressure) thus allowing fluid to flow out of the collapsing left side ram and flowing back to the sump.
     
  5. cutbetterthanyo

    cutbetterthanyo Senior Member
    Messages: 134

    "plus having to also activate the motor relay for three of the four functions is why using a factory controller is much much easier and quicker."

    Pleae explain a little more you are loosing me
     
  6. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Not only do you have to operate specific coils for the respective functions, you also have to trigger the motor relay so the pump runs for three of them, up, angle left and right. Doing this (and running the valves too) with toggles is tough since all wires have to remain separate, can't just tie everything together on the back of the toggles and call it a day. That's where just using a factory controller shines.

    Download and study the manual for the SEHP pumps, should be able to find it on Fishers website. It not only contains wiring schematics and hydro circuit schematics but also theory of operation. Will go a long way in familiarizing yourself with what you're working with. :nod:
     
  7. cutbetterthanyo

    cutbetterthanyo Senior Member
    Messages: 134

    thanks for the insight that is what i thought at first but after talking to a few ppl they made me belive that the valve had a full open and a netral that let the fluild back in.
     
  8. cutbetterthanyo

    cutbetterthanyo Senior Member
    Messages: 134

    where is the motor relay at on the pump because the only thing that i saw was the heavy gauge red and back wires and the blue,green, white/orange, and the black/orange.
     
  9. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    The motor relay is separate and is placed in the engine compartment. Here I dug out the SEHP specific manual: SEHP manual Should be good for at least a few hours of studying and will teach you more than you ever wanted to know. :D
     
  10. cutbetterthanyo

    cutbetterthanyo Senior Member
    Messages: 134

    thanks alot