1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Will go side to side but won't lift once chain is tight

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by 2dogs2, Aug 25, 2007.

  1. 2dogs2

    2dogs2 Member
    Messages: 81

    I have a western mark IIIa cable operated.. Worked fine all winter and once when I went to move it a month ago, now it will go side to side but won't lift once chain is tight. The electric motor is new and sounds like it is working fine.. I don't have access to a pressure gauge, and don't know where to buy one for this unit.

    Thanks...
     
  2. Jerre Heyer

    Jerre Heyer Senior Member
    Messages: 948

    Pull off the upper side cover (rectangle ) and check the cable travel. Cable should extend when lifting and should almost touch the bottom. It's possible that the cable is stretched or broken or not seated right at the control box in the cab. When you operate the control try holding the lift cable housing against the control box and see if this helps

    Jerre
     
  3. SnoFarmer

    SnoFarmer PlowSite Fanatic
    from N,E. MN
    Messages: 8,503

    You need to call your local short chaining service.



    ....:jester: :waving:
     
  4. 2dogs2

    2dogs2 Member
    Messages: 81

    Installed a brand new cable and seems like the travel is correct according to the western specs. Still the same lift distance. I have noticed that when I open the filler nut there is air bubbling out along with fluid when the ram is down. Guess, I will have to pull the pump out and check the screen and o-ring..



     
  5. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    Since you have determined the cable is OK then it's probably a pressure issue. You can try cleaning the pick up filter and adjusting the pressure relief, but it could be a the pump
     
  6. wild bill

    wild bill PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,239

    pump

    check the oil for metal in it ,also check the pump screen to see if it is crushed flat or full of lint or metal you can get a pressure Gage from mcmaster carr or grangers hook it up in line with a angle hose, there is a port in the lift cavity you can tap in to if you can get the plug out.they will angle before they will raise if pressure is down.
     
  7. 2dogs2

    2dogs2 Member
    Messages: 81

    Well, I took the electric motor off, then the pump, at first the screen looked a little bit crummy, but not that bad. Then I started to clean the inside of the main housing mopping up the little bit of fluid still left, as I started doing that I could not believe all the SLUDGE that was in there, along with all the little holes it bottom where the pump mounts. I went through a box of q-tips, a bottle of alcohol in a squirt bottle, and two rolls of paper towels. But it is clean for now, I'm sure I am going to have to do it again once I get it all back together and working since there will be sludge in lines and hydraulics rams on the blade.

    Right now I have to get another gasket for the electric motor, and I might as well replace the O-ring on the bottom of the pump, and the screen since it's off. Will let you know once it's back together if that fixed it or not.
     
  8. wild bill

    wild bill PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,239

    squeeky clean

    you can flush it out with kerosene jack the truck up suspend the hoses into a can of kerosene pull the plow around to suck the kerosene out of the can ,then put the hose into another drain pan and push the plow back do it on both cylinders until clean ,then run oil through it .if the cylinders are pitted bad they will skive seal material off the packings and let water in,plugging the screen, Grey slime is from water reacting on the aluminum.
     
  9. 2dogs2

    2dogs2 Member
    Messages: 81

    How is the kerosene going to affect the gaskets and 0-rings...??

     
  10. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    Meyer's Hydro-flush is an excellent choice for this job. Will not affect the orings or gaskets is compatible with all fluids.
     
  11. 2dogs2

    2dogs2 Member
    Messages: 81

    Thanks.. Will look for that


     
  12. wild bill

    wild bill PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,239

    Flush

    meyer used to have it listed as suitable to be used ,it is a light cleaner that is petroleum based and does not harm the seals.you just flush it out with clean oil.
     
  13. 2dogs2

    2dogs2 Member
    Messages: 81

    Well, I cleaned the system with Kero man was it dirty! I drained all the lines rams, etc. I did a pressure test after it was all done, and the digital meter I borrowed only read 1120 MAX pressure, so I turned the pressure screw in 1/2 turn to kick it up another 450lb. I still have to mount the plow but, have to get all the air out without losing to much fluid. At $7.00 a bottle I really don't want to lose much fluid.
     
  14. wild bill

    wild bill PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,239

    pressure

    sounds like you might want to invest in a hydraulic pump it wont last long,get one just in case !
     
  15. 2dogs2

    2dogs2 Member
    Messages: 81

    Well, that is what I am buying now. All the extra work and it still won't lift, so the only part left to replace is the pump...

    Thanks



     
  16. 2dogs2

    2dogs2 Member
    Messages: 81

    Well, just put the new hydraulic pump in and still will not lift !! :realmad:

    Are they set at the factory or do you have to adjust the pressure once the new one is in ????
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2007
  17. 2dogs2

    2dogs2 Member
    Messages: 81

    Well, I finally gave up and pulled the new pump, Western has a interesting sense of humor!! The hole on the bottom of the new pump is off by a 1/2 inch. Hopefully the dealer will take the pump back, and has the correct one since it seems like western replaced the old style..
     
  18. bribrius

    bribrius PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,609

    that just sucks. that just really sucks. id be about ready to sell it for scrap about now. too much headache. just sucks.
     
  19. wild bill

    wild bill PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,239

    pump

    from what i remember they replaced them 3 time's original was cast iron then went to aluminum,make sure you get it oriented the right way in the housing.some times the new pump's did not work good with the older housings might have to relocate the hole in the housing.if they will not take it back very carefully take it apart and take the bottom section line it up withe holes and see how far they are off .
     
  20. #1 plowtech

    #1 plowtech Senior Member
    Messages: 253

    I install approx. 30-40 pumps a year and NEVER had a problem even when going from oldy moldy cast iron pump to be replaced by the current replacement. Something does not sound right at all.. i would like to chat if possible. PM if interested, thanks and have a nice day, Plowtech:waving: