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Why would they do this?

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by superdog1, Oct 15, 2011.

  1. superdog1

    superdog1 Senior Member
    Messages: 255

    On Monday of this week, I bought a 1994 GMC 3500 dump truck. I am the second owner. The first owner was a municipality in southern PA. Anyways, it has a Western 9' Pro blade and quick mount with an all Meyer pump and wiring harness (including the headlight assembly). It is an E60 pump and slick stick on the shifter. To answer my own question, I would guess that $$ is tight and they had 2 plows laying around and put the 2 together, OR, they didn't feel like ripping the old wiring out and it was just easier to adapt? Any thoughts? (Good OR Bad?)

    With all of this in mind, I brought it home and hooked everything up (plow was in bed when purchased). Nothing happened! My first thought was "I just got #$%@!.............. Once I came back to my senses and could no longer see red, I took my time and started to trouble shoot the plow. Turns out, it was a $9.99 motor selinoid.It works great, as even with that big blade on it, it is super quick on the up/down and left/right (Almost too quick!)

    The truck has 121K on it and everything works. The only negative is the fact that it is stick and it has a 454 big block in it, so I will be towing a small OPEC country behind me to keep it gassed up, Lol and I am sure that my left leg will be twice the size of my right one from the workout it is going to get making that clutch go in and out this season!

    I hope this unit will be trouble free? Is there anything I should be looking out for with a "hybrid" setup like this?:eek:
  2. JCByrd24

    JCByrd24 Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 232

    Big heavy plow and a slick stick with a fast e-60 can lead to a swollen c-valve.

    Ok, that link got blocked, just google meyer swollen valve.

    You'll probably notice that after your release the stick from angling right that the plow slams to a stop, vs just coasting when angling left. When angling right the c-valve is actuated, when releasing the valve closes faster than the pump stops, pump sort of has momentum if you will. Meyer went away from the slick stick to the electronic controls and added a delay on the c-valve closing to prevent this on the faster e60 and e57. I did the same thing with my slick stick by adding in a capacitor. It was quite easy and only a few bucks. Mine did this on an e47 with a 7.5ft meyer blade (or my wife "aka Ramathorn" hit a bank too hard, she says I'm too gentle)

    This really has nothing to do with the meyer/western combo, would be the same with a heavy meyer blade, but thought I'd mention it. If you want the capacitor info I can go see what it is.
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2011
  3. gr8whitebronco

    gr8whitebronco Junior Member
    from nj
    Messages: 2

    Could you please give me more info on capacitor, and where it goes. I had this problem last year with my E-60 and a C-8.5.

    Thanks for the info
  4. JCByrd24

    JCByrd24 Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 232

    The capacitor I used was a 33000 uF (micro farad) one that I found at digikey dot com. They're around $5. It is wired in parallel with the c-coil (green wire), which I did under the dash at the controller end. Basically hook the negative terminal of the cap to ground and tee the positive terminal into the green wire. When the right switch is activated the cap will charge in a split second (at the same time as the c-coil is activated). When the right command is released, the cap will discharge to the c-coil and leave it open for like 0.3 seconds, which is enough time for the pump to stop first. Do an internet search on capacitor wiring polarity for clear instructions on which term is positive and which is negative on the cap. Don't quote me on the time to charge and discharge, I did the math at the time to get in the ballpark, but 33000 is what I bought and it works great.
  5. superdog1

    superdog1 Senior Member
    Messages: 255

    Thanks for the replys

    While the answer I got was great advice, I was wondering if anyone had an answer as to why I had this mix and match plow system? I had a local plow guy tell me that by using a Meyer pump and a Western plow, I have the best of both worlds and my setup is a perfect hybrid?

    Are Meyer pumps that much better than Western? I don't have a lot of experience using plows at all, so I have no clue? Is a Western Pro plow that much heavier than a Meyer unit that is 9' long? IMHO, the Western plows seem to be a little heavier and "beefier" than any Meyer unit I have looked at?

    I don't want to start one of those "Ford Vs Chevy" debates either. Perhaps someone out there has used both types of OEM equipment in a true working environment and can give me a true UN-biased answer?

    If there is something bad about using what I have, I want to know NOW!, not at 4AM with 8" of snow on the ground and 10 more still on the way, Lol:rolleyes:
  6. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    You had it right the first time. They had the pieces and put them together and made it work. I did the same thing. Western pump and controls, Meyer plow and lights.
    Use the link on blue line above. Use Search. Search " Plowing with a Manual Transmission". It may help you to not burn up the clutch. There are tricks to plowing with a stick. There are people here that have fried a clutch the first time out!