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Where to tap strobe power on 11' 1500 Silverado

Discussion in 'Strobe Lighting' started by George C, Dec 14, 2011.

  1. George C

    George C Senior Member
    Messages: 116

    Hi Guys.
    I have an 11' 1500 "non" snow plow prep package Silverado (extended cab) that I am mounting a permanent mini Pinncale to the roof for plowing.
    I have run a three wire lead from the rear tail light area (for Acari mount) up to the drivers side under dash area to get power. I plan on mounting a seperate switch with momentary to control the light.
    Since the Mini draws just slightly over 1.5 amps, and considering the length of the wire, is it safe to simply use a fuse tap and simply get safe power from the fuse box on the left side of the dash?
    I'm assuming the Pinnacle is as low of a draw as it gets. If not, what do you suggest for a safe power supply where potential overloading isn't possible?

    Thanks.
     
  2. RBRONKEMA GHTFD

    RBRONKEMA GHTFD 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,592

    You could tap into the radio fuse or heater fuse. Otherwise just run that 3 conductor to the battery hook black and red to the battery with a inline fuse, just to be safe.
     
  3. Too Stroked

    Too Stroked Senior Member
    Messages: 555

    The nice thing about the low (amperage) draw of LEDs is that you seriously reduce the risk of doing bad things. You also make it much safer to tap into the fuse box (properly) for power. No real need to go all the way to the battery. I'd recommend using an Add-a-Fuse to tap into an appropriate non-mission critical circuit. So that rules out things like the ECM, brake lights, heater / defroster, air bags, etc. And remember, there are circuits that are on all the time and those that are only energized with the key on. You need to decide which you want / need there.
     
  4. Dissociative

    Dissociative 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,066

    agreed..............
     
  5. George C

    George C Senior Member
    Messages: 116

    After looking down there, I realized that I have a brake controller mounted right next to the area where I plan to mount the switch (duh). I think I can just tap into the hot wire right off of that thing..
     
  6. Strobesnmore

    Strobesnmore Senior Member
    Messages: 413

    GeorgeC, I would suggest going to the fuse panel so you know exactly what you are tying into. Just grabbing any +12 volt lead isn't the best way. With a known fuse you can easily spot an issue should an issue arise.
     
  7. George C

    George C Senior Member
    Messages: 116

    Question:
    Wouldn't the supply line for the brake controller be a dependable source?
    The truck came with the tow package, and the supply wiring for the controller was up under the dash ready to plug in to my controller. I'm "assuming" it comes from a safe and seperate feed from the main fuse block.
    Do you still think I should run a seperate lead to the left side fuse box instead?
    .

    BTW, Thanks S-n-M for the fast service on the switch and wire. It came in three days..
     
  8. Too Stroked

    Too Stroked Senior Member
    Messages: 555

    I think it comes down to how one "taps in" to a circuit. I've seen people simply strip away insulation from a wire (with a knife), wrap the bare end of a wire around it, then apply a piece of electrical tape. That would be bad. (And I'm not suggesting that you'd do that.)

    I suggest the fuse panel because there's some techniques (Add-a-Fuse being just one) that allow you to neatly and safely tap into a known circuit. It's just generally better all the way around.

    BTW, if you do neatly tap into the Brake Controller, make sure you add an in-line fuse for the light.
     
  9. kitn1mcc

    kitn1mcc Senior Member
    Messages: 516

    personally i would not perm mount it to the roof
     
  10. George C

    George C Senior Member
    Messages: 116

    I'm using an Acari Mount.
    I've had enough of mag mounts letting go at freeway speeds, and with this new Chevy's paper thin roof metal, I'm going with something that screws in..
     
  11. kitn1mcc

    kitn1mcc Senior Member
    Messages: 516

    usally perm mount means that its holes in the roof
     
  12. Hubjeep

    Hubjeep Senior Member
    Messages: 501

    Neat, I just searched that, never knew they were made for new really tiny fuses. http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-HHH-ATM-Add-A-Fuse/dp/B000GKEXK2
     
  13. Dissociative

    Dissociative 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,066

    you can also just buy a small metal tap that goes onto an existing fuse and save a ton of money...

    if its not a high draw...you dont need a ADD A FUSE.....like above...
    you need a FUSE TAP....like this..just use a tester and tap the FUSED side of the fuse...(no power) and that fuse will carry the load of both items....use a cig lighter fuse

    [​IMG]

    they make em for older trucks too.....just keep the loads on them small...like led only,.,.
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Too Stroked

    Too Stroked Senior Member
    Messages: 555

    Yupper. Use the same ones on occasion. Much neater than the "pocket knife, strip wire, wrap new hot lead, electrical tape the mess" method I've seen some folks use. The only thing I don't like about them - particularly for the mini ATO style fuses - is that the wire you connect to it with the female spade connector tends to stick straight out. Sometimes this gets in the way of the Fuse Box cover. Bending the male end of the tap helps a bit.
     
  15. SharpBlades

    SharpBlades Senior Member
    Messages: 366

    That add a fuse is neat. What I have done (which probably isn't the best, but it works and I have not had any problems with it) is to grind the plastic off of a part of the fuse so there is bare metal showing then to solder the hot wire on.