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Whelen Wiring Help!!!

Discussion in 'Strobe Lighting' started by RepoMan207, Nov 22, 2008.

  1. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,031

    I bought this Mini Edge 9M with 6 strobes (each corner. two front center) take downs, & alleys (R) (L). I also purchased this 6 pack Whelen Hide Away Kit. The topping to the cake are these impressive pair of Work Lights. :help:
    edege.jpg

    hideaways.jpg

    I have been in the Truck and Towing Industries now for about 15 years. I have dealt with Strobes over that coarse of time, but this whole wiring thing......Urghhhhh! :realmad:

    I can get everything to the cab, no problem. How to wire it up on the other hand, I am in need of help.

    1st - Do I run 2 - 4 gauge wires from the battery for power supply, or locate some juice and metal under the dash? :jester:

    What I want to happen is this.....

    I want right and left allies to work separately, two switches.

    I want the work lights (Edge & Indp. Work Lights) to work on separate switch as well.

    I want the 4 corner strobes and the center strobes to work on separate switches, and be able to work in coordination when there all on.

    I want to be able to change the light pattern in the cab by a flick of the switch on the Edge.

    I want the 4 Hide Aways to be on one switch.

    I want to be able to change the light pattern in the cab by a flick of the switch on the Hide Aways.

    I bought these switches below. 1 - 2 switch panel / 1 matching - 6 panel / 1 back up - 6 panel / 1 - Monetary switch.

    swp21.jpg

    SP018.jpg

    nvs-14.jpg

    I have the wire charts, so I can handle depicting which wire is which and what they go to, but what light to which switch to get it to do what I want??? Does this make any sense or am I talking in circles. :dizzy: And do I just "bridge" the power from one switch panel to the next if using two? I want to try and stick to the 2 and 6 panel switch boxes that look alike, and the Monetary switch if need be.

    After thought....in the old days, all you had to do was flick the on / off switch a couple times real quick to change up the strobe pattern. Is this not doable anymore?

    edege.jpg

    hideaways.jpg

    swp21.jpg

    SP018.jpg

    nvs-14.jpg
     
  2. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,031

    Here is the Work lights, 80' range, Dual beam....I bought two.


    [BH]055+056.jpg



    If anyone has 4 AMBER Whelen Hide Away strobe heads, I want to swap these White (clear) ones out.

    [BH]055+056.jpg
     
  3. ultimate plow

    ultimate plow PlowSite.com Addict
    from N. IL
    Messages: 1,760

    well first, your going to have to run your power wires from every single light to each switch.
    Your grounds are just going to be grounded. Your main power from the switch box that will connect to + battery will need to be fused for the recommened load. Thats just the basics. Its a lot of wires to do. Three switch panels is kinda a lot. I know whelen and sho-me sells switchboxs with 10 switchs. Might just be better option?
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2008
  4. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,031

    I figured 1 4 gauge in from the engine compartment, then bridge box to box. I would fuse it out by the battery, either in line or one of those wall mount types.

    But what the heck do I do about the flash patterns? I have to buy that scan lock cable, the edge is set up for it, but didn't come with it. I have no clue where to put it in cab to make it work. The Hide Aways has one yellow wire for light pattern, but you have to (zap) it with juice to get it to change, hence why I bought that monetary switch thinking a I could incorperate that somehow....Somehow being the word of the day.
     
  5. kitn1mcc

    kitn1mcc Senior Member
    Messages: 516

    here is the way i would do it
    run a piece of number 12 gauge to the batter direct to the Power Supply (this power supply uses low current switching)i would run a length of number 8 or 6 to the switch box to hand the high current to the bar and to the extra work lights
     
  6. BlueLine Ent

    BlueLine Ent Senior Member
    Messages: 570

    Ryan

    If you bring the bar with you to Hooters, I can make a simple change inside the bar and make it so one of the extra wires is the scan lock wire. It is really simple.

    In regards to everything else, you have your hands full, but what you're saying (as far as I can tell) can be done, you just need to hook everything up carefully and neatly. The biggest obstacle you're going to have is doing it neat and by the book. It's gonna be a lot of wires and such, so I would recommend the use of terminal strips, lots of loom etc. Personally I would also like to see you use 1 panel that has the capability of handling all of that in one location, it would make wiring much easier.

    Matt
     
  7. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,031

    Thanks guys, I am seeing this project more clearly now. I got a plan ln in my head.....god knows it will fall apart somewhere, but it's a plan for now.

    Ahhh yes, power strips.....this could be a good thing. Zip ties, body clips, and a rubber hose at the correct diamiter make it nice and neat to and from units as well.
     
  8. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,031

    View attachment 45503

    View attachment 45504


    I bought these switches below. 1 - 2 switch panel / 1 matching - 6 panel / 1 back up - 6 panel / 1 - Monetary switch.

    View attachment 45505

    View attachment 45506

    View attachment 45507

    I AM SEELING ALL THESE PANELS, AS WELL AS THE ONE BELOW! PM me if interested.

    They are BRAND NEW in the box. The Whelen is the top of the line, it is a 9 switch panel. They use them in police cruisers, and other emergency vehicles. It has 3 on the lever, 6 on the buttons along with a built in momntary switch that will change through all your light patterns. All of them come with lettering squares so you can obviously choose which buttons you use for what.

    whelen.jpg
     
  9. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,031

    Lux....You can mount these right under the console using the already existing screws that hold on the dash trim. Depending on your truck, you can mount them IN the pockets, including the sunglass holder slot up over head. See Kyle's set up.....

    100_0744.jpg

    5.JPG
     
  10. Pirsch

    Pirsch Senior Member
    Messages: 596

    That 2nd pic with the switchbox in the cubby on the ceiling is SWEET! Bet it was a Bear to run all the wires up the A post and across the headliner. :salute:
     
  11. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,031

    I bet, I have done them on Internationals before.....I can only imagine what it's like on a smaller scale.
     
  12. ColliganLands

    ColliganLands PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,854

    hey repo thanks for the use of my pic there lol
    glad you liked it.
    and yes it took a while to get everything up and in there but it came out really nicely
     
  13. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,031

    Hey, I gave you credit. :nod:

    Lmao......yeah, not many of us use the top shelf stuff, so it's difficult to find good examples. :D
     
  14. Lux Lawn

    Lux Lawn PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,137

    Repo, looks good. It seems like you really planned everything out the way you wanted it to be. I hope it all works out for you.
    Larry