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What Wiring have I got, what should I do?

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by MLG, Nov 13, 2011.

  1. MLG

    MLG Senior Member
    from WI
    Messages: 179

    Guys,

    I bought a MVP Unimount plow last spring. Now I need to install. I plan to put it on a 89 Chevy truck, and have no truckside wiring other than the corect handheld controller. All the plow-side wiring is intact. Looking at the Western wiring schematics, it has the same plug set-up as a 2003 MVP solonoid system. There are 6 solonoids on the pump. The guy at the local plow place said this was a short-lived set-up and for the cost of the plugs, I might as well convert the plow-side over to a 2-plug system because most of the new solonoid plows use that style. The cost of converting over is about the same as adapting the 3 plug set-up.

    What do you think? I don't have any other Western unimount plows. I've got some Meyer and other solonoid Western plows (old style). I'm not even sure I'll even go with a straight blade on this truck, but who knows...

    Mark
     
  2. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    If you have no truck side wiring at all I would go with the newer 3 port isolation module system and go with the three plugs on the plow. Why they would suggest converting to the two plug system is beyond my understanding. The two plug system intigrates both the lights and the controls into one plug. So if something goes wrong you are involving two systems. The new plows all have a seperate plug just for lights.

    When your dealer said most of the new plows have the two plug system he was probably refering to the new multiplex setup, that is a whole different animal and not something you want to deal with.

    If you can give me more details about the target truck I can give you part numbers for all the stuff you need. But I need year, model, engine, cab style, box length and headlamp type (HB5, HB3 etc)
     
  3. MLG

    MLG Senior Member
    from WI
    Messages: 179

    Target truck is an 89 Chev 3/4 ton, Std cab, LF3-4 light setup. Engine is a 350.

    Would it be a bad idea to just get the control-side harness w/9-pin plug and just get a light harness off Ebay and just adapt to my truck's low beam lights? What woulld be the cost/value (benefit) of going with the isolation module?

    Thanks,

    MLG
     
  4. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    That is a bit off the beaten path so it's impossible to tell you the cost. I would expect it to be cheaper initially but what will it cost you down the road? When it is snowing and your plow fails it will be a real pain to troubleshoot if you deviate from a normal system. If you have an original three port, four port or even an old relay isolation system then you can look up a schematic and troubleshoot it or take it to a dealer / mechanic for repair but if you jerry rig it then you are the only person who will be able to work on it and then how long will it take. I get plows all the time that have been modified and it always costs a fortune for me to "reverse engineer" what the last guy has done before I can even begin to fix it. Owners are always frustrated with the hours required so I often turn them away unless they are willing to let me restore it to an original isolation module or at least realay system. Bottom line is that this is your decision but there is alwasy a down side to do it yourself modifications.
     
  5. Nasty-Z

    Nasty-Z Senior Member
    Messages: 370

    I would simply use the MVP 2 plug system on your '89 , it will perform fine and as a side benifit , with a straight blade controller and an adapter you can use both your MVP and a straight blade with the same harness .

    There is no inherit advantage to swapping to the new ISO system , the relay system works fine and has for years , ISO has its advantages , but not on a '89 model truck .

    P/N's for the basic's are :

    66610 MVP control harness
    66623 MVP battery wires
    61581 LF/UF headlight harness
    56131K Solenioid
    61535K (2) headlight relays
    22511 Positive wire

    FWIW , 66760K is the P/N for the straight blade to V adapter .

    TOM
     
  6. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    Is this an old uni-mount or a later model ultra-mount MVP? I had a look at quickmatch and found that your truck cannot take the MVP, it's just too heavy. Perhaps the uni was OK but I doubt it since they both weight about the same. You could do a force feed but hope that you don't get in an accident. At our shop we do not ever install plows on vehicles that Western doesn't include in their compatibility list. If you are just running on the farm or your own property you might get away with it but if you drive on public roads you might want to reconsider. If you get in an accident and they learn that you have an oversized plow mounted at the time you could be held responsible and your insurance could hang you out to dry. Consider carefully what you are doing.
     
  7. MLG

    MLG Senior Member
    from WI
    Messages: 179

    Tom,

    Thank you for the part numbers and suggestions. I actually had some (but not all) of those numbers that I was going to order parts for. If I switch to the 2-plug system, do I then keep the plow side power as it is, and replace the plug for the relays and light and replace with one that integrtes both? Can I ask which plugs I would use for the plow side?

    Mishnick, It's an older unimount blade. Yes, it's a little heavy for that truck, and you make good points about insurance and safety. It IS for my driveway only, which is long and tends to blow up high in a few places making it very difficult to get through with a straight blade. I've had it get to the point where I couldn't make it through with a straight blade. So my thinking is the 'V' should allow me to break through. This truck won't be on the road, other than I might cross and do my neighbors' if he asks.

    Mark
     
  8. Nasty-Z

    Nasty-Z Senior Member
    Messages: 370

    Mark ,

    Post up a picture of the plow side plugs you now have , that way it will clear up any questions of compatibility with the #'s I listed , if you cannot post them on here email them to me and ill have a look , tomsnastyz@yahoo.com

    If you have time for me to check , I may have a spare MVP harness and battery wires if you want :D

    FWIW , you will be fine with that plow on your 3/4 ton , no worries ;)

    TOM
     
  9. MLG

    MLG Senior Member
    from WI
    Messages: 179

    Ok, will do tomorrow (when it's light out)

    Thanks very much!
     
  10. Nasty-Z

    Nasty-Z Senior Member
    Messages: 370

    No problem Mark.

    TOM
     
  11. MLG

    MLG Senior Member
    from WI
    Messages: 179

    Tom,
    Ok, here are the pics of the plow wiring. On the picture with the plugs, the top plug is for the lights, the bottom for solonoid control (I'm sure you knew that already). Also note, inside the power plug is a small pin for (ground?). It's hard to see because of the grease. The controller (not shown) is the pistol grip unit with the round 10-pin socket.
    http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss118/gruni42/MVPPlowPlugs_email.jpg
    http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss118/gruni42/MVPPlowWiring_Pump_email.jpg

    Like I said before, in the absense of truck-side wiring, someone explained it might be a good time to consider changing over to 2 plugs. OTOH, I don't want to invest a fortune in wiring, and I can stick with the 3-plug system just as well. If you happen to have MVP wiring, I would be interested, indeed.

    Thanks in advance.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2011
  12. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    Something is wrong with this picture.... The gender of the plugs is wrong? The large power plug is right but the other two are not quite right. On the three plug system the headlight and control wire should be able to plug into each other on the plow and on the truck. Your photos show all three plugs have the same gender. Looks to me like a previous owner has jerry-rigged the wiring. So... you might as well start from scratch and install whatever wring system you can find that works and is cheap.