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What to look at for a used plow???

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by yell llc, Jan 26, 2011.

  1. yell llc

    yell llc Member
    Messages: 34

    Looking to get a truck to plow with for my landscape company. Found a 97 ford f250HD with 88,000 miles and a 351 V8, a buyers orange tailgate spreader, and a "restored" western 7.6 plow. I have a mechanic to look at the truck but am not too familiar with plows. what are some things to look for? Overall, I think that is a nice truck. only ting that i know it needs are tires come spring and a crack in the winshield fixed. This truck will be used for driveways and smallish lots mostly. Also, how hard is it to add wings to this plow?

    plow truck.jpg
     
  2. DIRISHMAN

    DIRISHMAN PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 4,256

    hey Very nice lookin ride . I have the same model,one suggestion go and do your self a favor go to the autoparts store and get your sell a 130amp alt. No change to anything just bolt on and plug in. You will need to get an alt for a 96 explore with 130 am and good to go. Ok now for the plow nice set up I have the same kind of plow only poly.As long as it all works up--down--left--right and there are no real big leaks of hydro from any of the cylinders angle and lift good to go.Also being your is steel check frame and mount on truck and plow it self for road rot (Holes) if not I would say run with it. Parts are still available for this plow as well as pumps, cylinders and plow parts. Good luck If you ever get really stuck look for a couple of guys on here who are super smart they are all realy good none better than the other alll equal..... Names are Twinnman,No lead,B&B again Good LuckThumbs Up
     
  3. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    Before you buy it check the plow pivot point for excessive wear. Just lift the plow off the ground and then try to push the top of the moldboard in and out & up & down on the end. That unimount a frame and quadrant are nutorious for bending and wearing out at the pivot. To fix it right requires a more than $1000 in parts, I just did a weld repair on one just like it today and it took me about four hours, cost owner about $500 in the end.

    At my shop people often buy trucks at the auction and then bring them to us to install a plow. The worst thing is when they realize the limitations of the vehicle they are stuck with. In your case you have the plow in the package but if you don't buy this one go to the Western web site and do the quick match thing before you commit. Check and see what plows will fit on the truck before you buy it.

    A common dissapointment with used trucks is with the diesels. People don't realize that diesel engines weight a lot more than gas engines so a lot of your front end weight capacity is used up with the diesel.

    Another thing to look at on the truck in the picture is the wiring. If you are lucky it will have an isolation module setup but will more likely have between two and six relays to operate the headlamps etc. Look at the relays and the wiring associated with the plow. That is the biggest expense that I see people getting stuck with when buying used.
     
  4. Dr Who

    Dr Who Senior Member
    Messages: 637

    I agree..Looks like my truck, except its white and the plow is red...but other then that!

    130amp at the parts store? get one for a 96 exploder?
    I wish I knew this a few days ago...
    I just had to re-replace my alt(other crapped out after 1 month, dang reman crap), the biggest I could get was 95 amp :realmad:
    It has been doing fine, but it I kill this one, I will do the swap


    One thing on these Fords you need to check out is the rear spring hangers, they are bad to rust out. but are easy to switch out and not to expensive off the Internet.

    Oh, these trucks work ok for small lots and drives, but there a pain in tight areas....
    I would advise getting something else so I can buy this truck :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2011
  5. yell llc

    yell llc Member
    Messages: 34

    thanks guys. going to check it out in a day or so... also i know that this is not the right forum but any pointers for looking at a salter?
     
  6. yell llc

    yell llc Member
    Messages: 34

    also, does $6500 sould like a fair asking price? I am going to haggle regardless but I dont want to insult the guy either.
     
  7. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    Salter... goe stainless steel hydraulic off the truck PTO if you can afford it. Tornados are not too bad for the price, Ice breakers are OK but the electric chokes suck.

    Regarding the price.... look it over real good before you talk price. Check that pivot point and the wiring etc. If you find problems then you have some evidence to use as leverage, then again if it is in great shape you may just have to pay what he wants...
     
  8. no lead

    no lead PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,308

    looks to be a nice truck. first thing i see is the lights have been replaced with aftermarket lights. no big deal, look close where the wires were spliced together. shrink tube on the splice would be a plus. new chain and new pins all the way around, that's good. mold board looks solid but is it? look at the top of the cutting edge the whole length of the plow. any rust holes or bondo? the power unit is from the 90's by the look of the pa block and fill hole. that is good.

    things that make me wonder. 1 is the bumper is bent down. 2 the driver side door has a west coast mirror on it. the pass door has a stock ford mirror. ?? maybe no big deal. maybe the whole door was replaced. maybe the whole side was smashed? look for signs of a repaint.

    next look the mount over carefully. that is all of the iron bolted to the truck. turn the key on and hold the control down for 2 seconds with the plow on the ground. now go push the lift ram down all the way by pushing the chain with your foot. push hard. stand in front of the plow and push the light brackets toward the hood hard. does the mount slop around and the bumper move with it? next look at the frame of the truck and see if the bumper is just loose or if the frame is bent. have someone push on the light brackets and observe any movement of the bumper or mount. are any bolts missing were it bolts to the truck?

    does the salter in the picture work? look for rust out on the metal and wear holes on the plastic. does it spin nice or is it wobbly? if it spins good and looks good that is all you can expect.

    6500 is a little high but if the drive train is good and the brake lines aren't rusted off i would haggle for it.

    sorry if that was a little long but you asked!
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2011
  9. yell llc

    yell llc Member
    Messages: 34

    thaks guys... the truck has new brakes and brake lines. i would like a small v box or a ss dump insert with salter but for this season i can do with this.
     
  10. yell llc

    yell llc Member
    Messages: 34

    also, i may just get the truck and get a newer western power pro plow. will that plow mount right up or will i need a new truck mound and different wiring? just trying to think about my options befor buying a 10 year old plow
     
  11. no lead

    no lead PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,308

    a pro will pin right up. wiring will be the same.
     
  12. yell llc

    yell llc Member
    Messages: 34

    even the new one with the ultra mount? i believe that this is a unimount???
     
  13. wideout

    wideout Senior Member
    from iowa
    Messages: 727

    no it won't you will have to get a new mount and wiring if you go with an altramount.
     
  14. wideout

    wideout Senior Member
    from iowa
    Messages: 727

    Ands the cutting edge on that plow is probably about do to be replaced
     
  15. show-n-go

    show-n-go Senior Member
    Messages: 776

    Pm me the vin and i'll run a carfax if you'd like.
     
  16. yell llc

    yell llc Member
    Messages: 34

    going to take a look at it so ill take you up on that show-n-go
     
  17. no lead

    no lead PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,308

    i mean a unimount pro will pin right on. ultramount is a whole different animal.
     
  18. yell llc

    yell llc Member
    Messages: 34

    what exactly is the difference besides the ultra is a newer model/make?
     
  19. no lead

    no lead PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,308

    the difference is it is totally different. mount harness everything.
     
  20. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    The big difference between unimount and ultra mount is how quickly you can mount & dismount. On a cold day fighting with those four pins on the unitmount is a pain in the kester. The ultra mount is soooo very easy to hook up to. If you buy a new plow today it will have an ultra mount reciever system. The electrical will be very different too. The older plows used relays to switch the headlamps between the truck and plow. The new plows have a solid state (transisterized with no relays) isolation modules to do the switching. Some of the new models like the MVP and Wide outs have what I would call a multiplex control system. That means that there is no longer a wire for every control option. Multiplex sends all signals down a signal wire. Kind of like radio control. The controller is like a radio transmitter, each button sends a different frequency down the wire and then it is decoded on the plow like a radio reciever. After being decoded the commands are seperated and sent to the valves. This means you can have many fewer wires between the truck and the plow. Bottom line is that the new ultra mounts are not only a pleasure to hook up to but they are also technically advanced, much more reliable and generally better built. But with all new things there is a price, they are not cheap!