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What is the secret to getting bleeder screws out?

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by MickiRig1, Aug 24, 2013.

  1. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    What is the secret to getting bleeder screws out?
    I heat them up red hot 3 times, (little map / o2 torch) they still break off.
    I soak every day for a week with PB blaster. I have done both. Try to Remove square and careful. They still break off. How do the re-builders remove them. I have try-ed both the triangular and spiral easy outs. They just remove material from the hole with no break loose. I bet 3/4's of exchanged calipers have broken off bleeders. So what do they do to remove them? They want $62 for rebuilt, I can do it for $10.
     
  2. 07PSDCREW

    07PSDCREW Senior Member
    Messages: 863

    You should heat the caliper around the bleeder screw...not so much heat on the bleeder itself.
     
  3. got-h2o

    got-h2o 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,439

    The secret with bleeders is to shock them. Heat it and then splash it with cold water.

    And ya, heat around it, not the bleeder itself. That usually works without the shock method.
     
  4. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    I started my F-250"s rear brakes today. Still broke a bleeder off! Been hitting them with PB Blaster all week. Got them and around them hot 3 times each. Passenger side broke loose then jambed and snapped off! Took to my machine shop. He tells me the rebuilders make a half hearted attempt to remove them. If no success they toss them in to the smelt bin. Melt them down and make new. That's why most of the " Rebuilt ones " look new. Replacing the back axle lines too. The flexible lines are married to the steel line with swedged fittings. Thanks dudes! Now I have to spend $30 a side to fix them! Most part places don't even have them!
     
  5. 07PSDCREW

    07PSDCREW Senior Member
    Messages: 863

    Don't take me wrong and I don't want to sound like an ass, just throwin out pointers...but ya only heat around the bleeder.. Not the bleeder itself. The key is to expand the metal around it. Yes, it will indirectly get hot but not as hot as heating it directly. Also, once it breaks loose and then stops, just work it the other direction....back and forth. Eventually it will open far enough for you to bleed it.
     
  6. matts27

    matts27 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 138

    Over the years I've tried everything to get bleeders out, if I get them free I remove them, clean the threads and anti-seize them. Anti-seize has been the only thing that has ever worked for me. If I broke them, off to napa for new ones and anti-seize them on the bench. I do the same with carbs, the aluminum to steel screws/bolts Gaul easily and anti-seize everything has been a hard lesson I have learned when trying to repair expensive main bodies or complete units.

    Matt
     
  7. jhenderson9196

    jhenderson9196 Senior Member
    Messages: 615

    Dorman makes a kit to drill and tap, install a threaded sleeve and a new bleeder. If you are better than most, you just drill and use a pick tool to remove the old thread, and chase the hole.
     
  8. rjigto4oje

    rjigto4oje PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,289

    if everything else fails buy new wheel cylinders remove the bleeder screws use anti seize this works really well make sure your buy a wheel cylinder that has a lifetime warranty
     
  9. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    Rust is oxidation. My toughts are by heating it red hot your burning up the oxidation. Which is what is welding the bleeder screw in. I put these calipers on it like 3 years ago. I used antiseeze on them. We pulled out the son's microscope. You could see the antiseeze in the bottom 1/3 of the thread valley. The top third / peak is all oxidation. The next time I try the drill / pick / chase method. I need to have an excuse to buy a small drill press anyway.
     
  10. secret_weapon

    secret_weapon Senior Member
    Messages: 437

    Brake fluid should be flushed or is at least recommended every 2 years. I flush mine once a year. Also use anti-seize on the bleeders. If I have time and am feeling motivated I disassemble, clean and lube all the brake stuff. Keeps them working properly and wearing even.
     
  11. ppkgmsy

    ppkgmsy Member
    from Vermont
    Messages: 73

    I hate those little devils. I can tell you that, although I wish it would, cussing doesn't help.
     
  12. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    Make the bleeders out of: Stainless, Chromed or Grade 8 and we would not have these things breaking off!
     
  13. brad96z28

    brad96z28 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,526

    Heat and air hammer If there is something left to grab I always get them out. And ive even welded a nut to them and backed out ones that have broken. Pb blaster kinda stinks. Nothing beats kriol.
     
  14. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    I think the design is purposeful. Longer then 4 years they will break and you buy new ones. Keeps people from using them forever without a rebuild. I have the ball thing / honer to rebuild them for $10. The back yarders don't know how to check them or rebuild them. Just drives me nuts to get in the cycle of buying " rebuilt / new " when I need them! Hell I would even shoot black paint on them if I could get the bleeders loose!
     
  15. osomany?s

    osomany?s Member
    Messages: 48

    heat around the bleeder back it out if it gets tight go back in spray wd 40 or other pen oil and try to remove again....repeat this process ....they always come out. with heat and patience.ps a six point socket or six point box end wrench is usually more effective than any 12 pt socket or open end wrench.pss when i suggest heating i am referring to oxygen/acetylene torch not nearly enough heat in a little pizo torch.....even with map gas!
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2013
  16. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    My torch is a Map / Oxygen. I am running a ambulance portable oxygen tank with a regulator and Map gas. It puts out some heat. You get the glow going and crank up the o2. It will cut 1/8 steel.
     
  17. osomany?s

    osomany?s Member
    Messages: 48

    Yes when u run the map with oxygen u will get higher temps of couurse I was referring to guys running just a map tank with a litte heating tip the important thing is to get. The metal directu around the bleeder to glow cherry red quickly so u dont overheat the wheel cylinder or caliper which both have rubber inside
     
  18. Antlerart06

    Antlerart06 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,437

    I must wash my trucks to much Over the years I never had to heat bleeder up to get it out
     
  19. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    I have the flat plumbing heat shield sheets too. I use layers of heavy duty foil to protect the rubber bolt cover/ bellows. Anything we post educates people.
    I was thinking there has to be a trick the re-builders use. I was mistaken, I guess.
     
  20. got-h2o

    got-h2o 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,439

    Like I said a month ago, the secret is to shock them. That IS the secret. I can't believe it is still being debated.