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Western wiring Problem

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by Ronnie_Rockstar, Oct 16, 2011.

  1. Ronnie_Rockstar

    Ronnie_Rockstar Junior Member
    Messages: 6

    Hi!! New to site, hoping I can get some help with my problem.
    Had an 88 Chevy Silverado with a Uni Mount 7.5. Removed the plow and scrapped the truck cause it just rusted out too bad to make street legal. I bought a 99 k1500 Silverado and like a dummy I let the local Western dealer talk me into adapting this Uni Mount to my new truck(I never liked this plow and it never liked me). I bought the new truck side mounts and the light wiring harness (plug-in harness kit no. 63392), but I am having NO luck getting this plow or plow lights to work. I followed the wiring diagram with the harness kit. First off the diagram shows wiring for 6 relays and the kit only came with 4. So I used 2 relays I had from my 88 wire harness. The problem I have is when I plug the connections at the grill (two plugs, one with 11 pin connector and one with pos+ and ground-) I have no plow functions at all. The truck lights go out but I have no plow lights. I have two relays making a buzzing sound, plow low beam and truck low beam. I have checked and cleaned all my connections, but have no luck.
    One other thing just to mention, I was have hydraulic problems with this plow last season so when I bought the mounts and wiring for my 99 truck I also swapped out the pump assembly for a rebuilt unit.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    Hmm, sounds pretty simply like you have made errors connecting your relays. There are sooo many connections it is easy to loose your way. When you say the relays buzz it indicates that you have some sort of feedback loop, again indicating that you have them connected wrong. If you can take back the relay kit I would return it and upgrade to a three port isolation module system. You would have to convert to a three plug (at the grill) system though which means removing the plow cable with the small pins and install a new separate cable for the headlights and a second new cable for the hydraulic controls. The isolation module is pretty much idiot proof and much simpler to install than the relays, not to mention it is much more reliable and easier to troubleshoot when it does fail.

    As it stands now you have compound problems, first your relays and second a history of hydraulic troubles. If you install the iso module system then your lights will work and then you can focus on the other problems without confusion.
     
  3. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    You may want to count the pins in the grill connector again, there isn't a relay system that used an 11 pin grill connector. It's either 9 or 12. Isolation systems are 11.

    All six relays are needed because 99-02 GM headlamps are not only positive common but separated side to side thus requires 6 relays and a mess of connections making it very easy to connect them incorrectly. And also, what is the service # on the headlamp harness? Should be a 26071.

    But regardless of the lamps functioning or not you should at least have plow functions so you have more than just the lamps wired incorrectly.
     
  4. Ronnie_Rockstar

    Ronnie_Rockstar Junior Member
    Messages: 6

    Thank you for the info. Although the isolation module does sound nice, I just can't afford the cost as snow removal is basically just a hobby for me right now. As for my wiring, I am 98% sure I have all the wires where they are supposed to be. The only ones I am not sure of are my browns coming out of the vehicle harness as this was previously mounted on another truck. Would it make a difference if I have them reversed? Also if I pull either the black on the plow low beam relay or the black/orange off the truck low beam relay the buzzing stops but the truck lights come back on.
    The service # is 26071 the kit # is 63392. And sorry for the typo, it is a 12 pin connector at the grill.
    I guess it couldn't be something simple like a bad solenoid or bad controller? Here's why I ask.......

    A little history on this plow. When it worked it worked great. At the end of the season I started having issues with the plow function. Sometimes when I would go to lift, it would lift and turn left. Sometimes it wouldn't lift at all. When this would happen I'd hook the chain short and get it back to my garage. It seemed after it would warm up it would work again. Sometimes when I would angle fully to one side or the other it seemed to lock in that position. If I would push against a snow pile it would go the other way.
    That is why I swapped out the pump assembly. I thought it was in the hydraulics and not the harness.
    Again any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
     
  5. Western1

    Western1 Senior Member
    from MI.
    Messages: 674

    Try jumping the solenoid to see if the plow motor works.
     
  6. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    If the small relays are buzzing it has nothing to do with the solenoid or controller because the relays are only involved with the lights. Solenoid and valve controls are much simpler, they are just wires between the controller and coils at the plow.
     
  7. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    What exactly was the headlamps harness previously installed on? Make, model and body style?

    And where exactly did you connect the red fused keyed ignition power wire?
     
  8. Ronnie_Rockstar

    Ronnie_Rockstar Junior Member
    Messages: 6

    @ B&B...
    The headlamp harness is new. The dealer told me that was all I needed to put this plow on my truck other than the frame mount. The harness from the grill connector to the controller was from an 88 k2500 Chevy Silverado standard cab long bed with 4 headlights. The headlight harness from that truck has been replaced with harness # 63392
    The red fused power wire is plugged into the fuse box in an open ACC port.

    I didn't get to mess with it tonite. I have a friend coming to look at it tomorrow with a "fresh set of eyes" to see if I have overlooked something.
     
  9. Ronnie_Rockstar

    Ronnie_Rockstar Junior Member
    Messages: 6

    I was wrong with the grill connector. After looking at the plow side harness it has a 9 pin connector. The truck side has 12 holes in the plug. Don't know if that makes a difference?
     
  10. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    If you look close at the plug you will see that even though it has 12 holes there are no wires or or connectors in three of the holes. That is normal.
     
  11. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    If your pin count on the truck side is accurate there's your problem with the lighting. You can't run a 9 pin plow on a 12 pin truck side on a vehicle that has positive common low beam headlamps such as yours. When you do- you experience the exact issues you're having, ie improper light operation and the low beam relays buzzing because you have a back feed through the lows from the plow. You need to switch the plow over to 12 pin also.
     
  12. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    If that is the case I agree this could certainly be your problem. If there are 12 pins on one side there should be 12 wires and 12 female pins in the holes of the other side. Many plugs have several missing pins and empty holes in the other half. Like the control cable for the three plug straight blade. It has only three pins but they have at least 7 or more positions for pins. Empty spaces are common in various configurations.
     
  13. Ronnie_Rockstar

    Ronnie_Rockstar Junior Member
    Messages: 6

    Thanx for all the help. Just wanted to let you guys know I got it working this morning. Turns out I did have one wire misplaced, the neg battery wire I had grounded to the engine block. This morning I moved it to the NEG side of the battery and everything is now working as it should.

    Thanx Again!!
     
  14. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    Good to hear it worked out for you. It hope we were part of the solution. I is odd though that moving a ground from the engine block to the battery post made any difference because electrically they are the same. I often put my large power ground cables on a convenient spot on the engine block because sometimes the battery posts are just too croweded; I have never had a problem with it. Perhaps you just had a bad connection at that point on the block. In any case the main thing is that your problem is resolved, now just hope for snow ;)
     
  15. Western1

    Western1 Senior Member
    from MI.
    Messages: 674

    That's what I do also. Must have been a bad connection. Glad to hear everything is good. Good Luck!