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Western Unimount 7.5 help

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by ByDesign, Oct 13, 2011.

  1. ByDesign

    ByDesign Senior Member
    Messages: 372

    The plow is on a 01 for f250, last year it worked fine...no issues at all. I hooked it up to the truck this year and we got problems!!! I can't angle the plow left or right. When I try to angle left, the plow raises. Right it doesnt even move, it will go up and down just fine. I made sure the plow has fluid in the pump and every thing was greased, but still no luck. I pulled off the cartridges off to make sure they were clean and they looked fine. I am at a loss for what to look at next. Does anyone else have any ideas where to go from here?

    Thanx,

    ByDesign
     
  2. Western1

    Western1 Senior Member
    from MI.
    Messages: 674

    By cartridges I assume you mean valves? Did you check them for movement? Sometimes they will stick when the plow sits.
     
  3. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    You can pull the valves and the coils & then use a couple jumper wires to put power to the coils. You should hear a clear, audible click from the valves. You can also hold a screwdriver tip to the end of the valves while you try the controls, When they get power you should feel the magnetism pull the screwdriver and then release it.

    Sometimes after they have sat for a few months they will stick and just pulling them out and activating them with jumper wires will break them free. Have a good look at the valve while you have them out. Look for any swelling or other deformities. You can usually see it when they are bad.
     
  4. Tony350

    Tony350 Senior Member
    Messages: 546

    If you test the valves a 9 volt battery works great, it fits the coil perfectly and easy to hold up there.
     
  5. Western1

    Western1 Senior Member
    from MI.
    Messages: 674

    Nice idea with the battery!
     
  6. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    The nine volt battery might not have the guts to make the valve click fully because it is so small but it would give you and indication at least that the coil is good. I like to use the vehicle battery because it will give you an indication of how the valve is actually working. If it doesn't click solidly with the little battery it could be the 9V but if it isn't right on the 12V then you know it's the valve.
     
  7. Tony350

    Tony350 Senior Member
    Messages: 546

    This idea came from a western dealer. He said he siad if the battery is new it has always worked using it. If the battery doesn't work to move the valve he will test it on his tongue, if it buzzes he knows the battery is good and the problem is in the valve. If the battery is bad repeat with a good one. I would agree that 12 volts would be best but he has been using this trick with unimounts and said it has worked well for him so I wanted to pass it along.
     
  8. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    That is interesting... if you learned this from a Western dealer it must hold some validity. I have been on the Western maintainer's course twice and have never heard about it before but I am going to do some personal research. I am going to get a brand new 9 volt battery and see how much current actually flows through a valve coil. Then I am going to see how much current flows using 12 volts. It would also be interesting to see how far down the voltage of the 9 volt battery drops when it is loaded with the coil.
     
  9. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    9 volts work great for testing. If it shifts the spool on 9V there's no doubt it will on 12-14V. Been doing it for years.
     
  10. ByDesign

    ByDesign Senior Member
    Messages: 372

    I will have to check this out. I did the screw driver gig already and found that the only one that is magnetized is the up/down coil. Im not sure where I go from here, but ill keep everyone updated.
     
  11. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    You need to look at the mechanic's guide, there is a table that shows what coils should be active for each function. You can unplug the main power cable so the pump doesn't run and then get someone to run the control while you verify the appropriate coils are magnatized. If they are not then use an ohm meter to check for coil continuity. If they are open then you need new coils, if they are OK but not activating then you have an electrical problem, no power being sent to the coils that is. The first thing to try in that case is a new controller. If that doesn't help then perhaps your harness or plugs are damaged.

    I built a little test box with three lights in it, one for each coil. I plug wires into each coild (in parallel) and then I set the light box on the hood while I try to operate the control. If the appropriate lights come on for each function I know that power is being sent to the coils. This has been a handy tool for this type of troubleshooting.

    From what you said in the first block, the plow goes up and down but won't angle. That makes sence with what you say now about only the up / down valve magnatizing. Sounds to me like the valves are not being activated at all for R & L angle.
     
  12. Tony350

    Tony350 Senior Member
    Messages: 546

    If you don't have power to the coils I would check and see if you have power at the grille connections. If you have power there then you know it lies in the plow, if no power to the grille plug the problem lies in the trucks wiring or controller. Follow the same test with the plug un-connected and test the correct pin for power with a 12 volt tester.
     
  13. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    This will only work if you have the three plugs at the grill. If you have the two plug system then when you disconnect the plug to test for power you will not be able to turn the controller on.
     
  14. Western1

    Western1 Senior Member
    from MI.
    Messages: 674

    On a 2 plug relay setup you can.
     
  15. Tony350

    Tony350 Senior Member
    Messages: 546

    # plug system you can't turn the controller on. With the 2 plug you can. I am assuming it is a 2 plug because he said it is on a 2001 truck. But we know what happens when I assume.
     
  16. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    If it is a two plug system then the activation wire, that turns on the controller, will be opened when you open thet plug to test. On the three plug system the activation wire goes through the light plug so you can test for valve coil power at the control plug. If I am wrong about this explain to me what does activate the system when the plow is plugged in? I know there is nothing in the power plug of the old solenoid controlled plows so it has to be in the other plug.
     
  17. Tony350

    Tony350 Senior Member
    Messages: 546

    Mishnick You may be right if you have the 2 plugs in and are testing at the coil bu ton a 3 plug setup if you have the plow off of the truck you can't turn the controller on. With the 2 plug system you can power on the controller whenever you want. You would be right if you wanted to check at the coil with a 3 plug system and had th eother two plugs plugged in it would turn the controller on and let you check.
     
  18. Western1

    Western1 Senior Member
    from MI.
    Messages: 674

    Mishnick is referring to the two plug multiplex system not the old relay two plug that more people are familiar with.
     
  19. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    that is correct, I am talking about the multiplex. On this two plug system there is a wire in the headlight plug that completes the curcuit to ground to activate the controller. When the light plug is open you can't really test anything. On the three plug iso module system you can unplug the control wire ( the one with only three pins) and the system will remain active for testing power to the coils.