1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Western pro plow problems

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by Joe92GT, Dec 9, 2003.

  1. Joe92GT

    Joe92GT Member
    Messages: 71

    I baught a used, but newer 8.6 pro unimount. The plow worked great for the first night, and the second day I had a intermittent angle problem. The plow would angle left only, and go down slow.

    I check all the wiring, and solonoids, and then replaced the S2 vavle. Plow worked great. Next day, stopped angling again, but then worked itself out and was fine after that.
    Day after, same thing.... but didn't fix itself. I then replaced the S3 valve, and the plow works better than ever.

    My question is, what can cause these valves to fail, and does it sound like I may have another re-occuring problem. And how can I properly check and clean everything?

    My dealer is packed with installs, and repairs, and doesn't have time for awhile to look at my plow. Plus, I prefer to do everything myself.

    Thanks for any help,

  2. Little Jay

    Little Jay Senior Member
    Messages: 101

    Dont just take the motor off, the pump out, and cycle the rams with hoses disconnected to flush out the old and suck in the new...take the valve housing off and spend the time to clean it out. It takes more time, but shavings and sludge can gather in the little orifices. Also, test and make sure that each coil is getting enough voltage to valves. It might not be that the valves are bad, but they arent getting enough juice to switch them completely.
  3. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    Little jay is probably right, theres probably something floating around in your hydralic system. You might want to test the coils while you have everything apart. Use an ohm meter with one lead on each terminal, should be 6.7 ohms (approximatly) at room temp. Be careful not to over tighten the nut holding the coil on, this can stretch the valve and cause further problems.
  4. Joe92GT

    Joe92GT Member
    Messages: 71

    I have a full electric shop.. I tested all the coils, and even powered up the vavles... all the coils work.

    SO, I'll pul the valve body off, and clean it out.. anything I should be aware of that I can break easily?
  5. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    Not really, just as long as your not planning on pjullong the cross over relief and poppet out. Just make sure the o-rings and seals are still in place when you put things back together, especially the o-ring on the bottom of the pump.
  6. General Grounds

    General Grounds Member
    Messages: 66

    :bluebounc joe, you may want to check the packing nuts on the cylionders if the are to tight you can also have this problem. tony
  7. Brian Simmons

    Brian Simmons PlowSite.com - Sponsor
    Messages: 196

    If you do decide to start pulling parts make sure you relieve the pressure in the system. If you pull the poppet shortly after using the plow there will be a lot of pressure behind the plug. Just remove the red battery cable from the side of the motor then cycle the plow. Removing this wire will not allow the motor to run but the ground still completes the ground circuit so you can actuate the cartridges to dissipate the pressure. If you see metal particles in the fluid you will need to find the source of it or you will be swapping out cartridges all the time. Check to see that the cylinders are not loaded. Sometimes a bent a-frame or a western equivalent will bow and that puts a load on the cylinder so that every time you angle the plow the guide rings in the barrel will score the inside and put metal shavings in the system. Just something to look for.