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Western Plow ID

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by RandallJ, Nov 27, 2015.

  1. RandallJ

    RandallJ Member
    Messages: 44

    I need to get this plow up to speed but having a time ID'ing the thing.. Thanks..

    Looking at pictures, appears the cutting edge on this one is pretty well worn out.. round of hoses, oil change, cutting edge..

    Coming from the southwest... we do not see much in the way of plows in the shop..
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2015
  2. RandallJ

    RandallJ Member
    Messages: 44

    apparently , site does not resize... sorry.. will get it fixed

    20151127_100545.jpg

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    20151127_101714.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2015
  3. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,963

    Unimount 7'6 I'm guessing it's a home owner/ light duty version. The 2 trip springs are a give away of that.
     
  4. RandallJ

    RandallJ Member
    Messages: 44

    Thank you... just using this for our own lot (20,000 sqft) going to flush the fluid out of it, change the screens and replace the cutting edge..
     
  5. Western1

    Western1 Senior Member
    from MI.
    Messages: 678

    It's considered a unimount standard plow if you need parts.
     
  6. RandallJ

    RandallJ Member
    Messages: 44

    well considering the amount of cutting blade that is left.... probably so.. (no shoes installed and going to add them back to the unit)

    20151127_100711.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2015
  7. RandallJ

    RandallJ Member
    Messages: 44

    I was also wondering about the repainting of the system, Having it blasted and then repaint , powder coat, even worth the trouble?
     
  8. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    Before you take the time to paint or powder coat it you should take a good close look at the main pivot pin and surrounding metal. This generation of plow would wear out there and the plow would come right off and hang by the chain and rams. I have re welded many of them. Do your metal work first so you don't have to burn your paint later....

    When you do your service pull the motor right off the top, suck all the fluid out and then fish out the magnet to examine it for metal bits & pieces. There should be just magnetic grease, that's normal but if you can feel grit look deeper.

    When you refill it use the blue plow fluid. Back when this was made they recommended dexron trans fluid but now they recommend the blue aircraft hydraulic fluid because it has more stable viscosity in cold temperatures. If you do switch from dexron to blue plow fluid be sure to purge your rams and hoses so the fluid doesn't mix.

    For pain I like the powder coat if you have that option but next best is Endura.
     
  9. RandallJ

    RandallJ Member
    Messages: 44

    Gotcha.. I was going to tear it apart in the morning (pull motor, flush housing, check filter etc). I did not know about the magnet but am well versed in hydraulics so hopefully should not be too big a deal..

    Thank you for the advice on the fluid.. I had seen more than one thread on ATF v other fluids.. The cylinders appear to be in great shape and the main pump seems to operate just fine (sounds good, actions are crisp and fast with no appreciable drag on pump)

    Electrical is a bit of an issue as the connector for the controls and lights has some oxidation (enough I had to work them around a bit to get the lights to come on.. I see that they do not make replacement ends but only full harness for this? I do have a specific cleaner for doing oxidized electrical connections and I will try that and liberal amounts of dielectric..

    As it is this close to the season, I doubt I would do much more than knock scale off and get the metal treated a bit to keep it from getting worse for now..
    I had already gone over most of the hard connection points and did not see anything to get alarmed about other than a bit of "oblong" holes on smaller pins..
    From what I have been able to learn about this unit is that they came with a single stud (power) and grounded through the motor housing, this motor has lugs for both power an ground so might be half a step up..

    Having never run a plow "commercially" I am not yet ready for that anyway and am going to see how just taking care of our own lot goes first.. This was not an "income" move but more of a move to keep some of our outside costs from going any higher.. Our annual plow bill is going to hit around $10k this year and so it just made sense to see about bringing it in house..

    Absolutely no qualms about our service provider but 10G's is 10G's.. Truck and plow were well under 5K and I have 5K set aside for repairs on the unit.. So far the truck is in great shape for having 200K on the clock (I was a garage owner for a lot of years and so working on the truck is an easy job)..

    Barring any massive outlay for the plow itself, I will probably put a SnowEx bulk pro ($2300 delivered) on the back (likely a bit of overkill but I hate making purchases that I regret not spending more on later. The two stage spreader seems a good move for treated salt?

    I really want this thing to be reliable without a lot of grief..
     
  10. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,963

    They sell replacement "ends" for the 9 pin. Both truckside and plow side
     
  11. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    DieselSS is correct, there are repair ends for those plugs. However..... if you want to do a good job and make it real reliable you might consider upgrading the plow and truck to the 3 plug isolation module system. It would cost money but then you could get rid of the mass of relays controlling the headlights. That is the worst thing about that generation of Western plows. The good thing about that system is that you can pull all those relays and wire your own manual headlight controls and the plow will still work unlike the isolation module systems on the three plugs and the new two plug multiplex plows.
     
  12. RandallJ

    RandallJ Member
    Messages: 44

    duly noted.. Am guessing this also leaves me in a far better place if I upgrade the plow itself..
     
  13. MLG

    MLG Senior Member
    from WI
    Messages: 175

    It's a lot of work and time to take apart and blast a plow, but they look nice afterwards and it feels good. Yeah, that wear bar is pretty low.
     
  14. Dogplow Dodge

    Dogplow Dodge 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,956

  15. RandallJ

    RandallJ Member
    Messages: 44

    Ya know, a month ago I would have wondered "why".. Today, seeing what this stuff costs? I say bravo! nice work and looks like I have some work to do if this thing gets through this first season ok.. Nice thread if I ever decide to read it.. prsport
    Looks like good sleeves in worn holes is a good move.. maybe even drill them for grease zerks?

    I got the wear bar, new hoses and a bolt kit for the wear bar today.. $108

    I see stuff about the "pro wings" and thinking that might be a good move for me considering the 7.5 spread.. will this unit hold up to them?
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2015
  16. RandallJ

    RandallJ Member
    Messages: 44

    From what I can see, the main pivot is a bit oblong..nothing too serious. However.. where the rams meet the plow head, things seem to be a bit more critical.. Looking along the back side of the brace, the metal is pulled out a bit along that straight edge.. This appears to need some attention before I get too deep into the season....

    Oil was definitely ATF, it did have a slight haze (moisture) and the bottom of the housing was pretty clean.. Looked to be an acceptable amount of "metallic" flake settled to the bottom (nothing more than I have seen in hundreds of powersteering cans over the years).. I went ahead and used ATF again (no blue hydraulic fluid available locally)..
    Left to right blade actuation is a bit uneven (maybe 25% difference in speed?). Hoses are not matched and one has a bit of blistering at the fitting.. Two new ones on the way.. Other than these things.. seems to be pretty fit..

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  17. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,963

    I wouldn't worry to much about the angle cylinder pin holes. Just the main aframe holes.
     
  18. RandallJ

    RandallJ Member
    Messages: 44

    great.. thanks!
     
  19. Dogplow Dodge

    Dogplow Dodge 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,956

    Those can be easily fixed with a welder. Keep them greased and they won't wear anymore...
     
  20. Dogplow Dodge

    Dogplow Dodge 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,956

    The sediment in that pump housing in that pic is normal from my experiences. Those ram pin holes, again can be welded smaller or welded and a reinforcing plate added . really easy if you have a decent welder and some skill using it. Atf will work fine, but if you ever do a complete rebuild, real hydraulic fluid will flow better in extreme cold temps.

    Jack the plow up, remove the hoses from the pump side and manually move the plow lock to lock with those hose ends in a bucket, expelling the fluid in the rams. Put your new hoses on and filler up. See if it makes a difference for the speed issue. Personally I wouldn't worry about that deviation, but that just me.

    Good luck with it. Have fun plowing