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Western MVP Plus Ultramounts Too Low! Help!

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by Nitsua801, Oct 18, 2013.

  1. Nitsua801

    Nitsua801 Junior Member
    Messages: 2

    Hello all,

    Just installed ultramounts on my 2002 Chevy 2500 HD for a MVP Plus 8.5' V Plow from Western; the mounts are ridiculously low with the weight of the plow only giving me about 4 to 5 inches of ground clearance, if that. Checked to make sure that the mounts I have are correct for the vehicle and they are. I'm really hoping I don't have to bulk up the front suspension. Any suggestions? If I do need to bulk up front coil-overs, any suggestions for what I should do? Anything would help. Thanks.

  2. 1olddogtwo

    1olddogtwo PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,394

    its a chevy and a heavy plow...... search the chevy fourm for ideas

    Most crank the T-bars and add timbens
  3. cet

    cet PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,196

    Which part is 4-5" off the ground?
  4. Nitsua801

    Nitsua801 Junior Member
    Messages: 2

    The bottom of the mounts with the weight of the plow...leaves virtually no clearance with the plow on for bumps and such while driving
  5. cet

    cet PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,196

    Is the plow new or is it from another truck?
  6. 1olddogtwo

    1olddogtwo PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,394

    Pics would help

    REAPER 2000 Club Member
    from 60050
    Messages: 2,228

    You could do what olddogg suggests or you could do it right.

    Yes most crank the t-bars and install Timbrens.
    Cranking the t-bars may raise it a inch or 2 but at the same time throws the alignment out of whack and puts extreme stress on the tie rods/ball joints. So then you will be chewing tires up and replacing front end parts half way into the season.
    Timbrens- They DO NOT raise the front end. They only narrow the gap between the bump stop and control arm. So when you hit a bump it may not bottom out with these installed and it may not sag as much but that only means the weight is resting on the Timbrens causing them to always ride the control arm while driving. Stiff ride and premature wear of the Timbrens and or maybe the upper control arm bushings will ensue.

    The proper thing to do is lift the front end. Get new keys for the t-bars.
    Get a small lift kit 1 or 2 inch with upper control arms for the front.
    Also get extended shocks or the best option, air shocks on the front.

    After this get it professionally aligned and you will be happy you did the above.
    Yes Chevy/GMC have the sag problem with heavy plows but if you properly install the parts I mentioned you will be a happy camper with no sag and far far less front end repairs and tire replacements.

    There are those that will say just crank the t-bars "I've done it for years and had no problem. Trust me don't believe them and talk to a front end specialist to understand why. Or talk to a real wrench turner who knows GM truck front ends. Mechanics will love to take your money in the end but I always find it best to prepare before hand as to not have to see the mechanic in the first place. ussmileyflag
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2013
  8. 1olddogtwo

    1olddogtwo PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,394

    As a disclaimer, I haven't own a Chevy/GMC plow truck since the 80's

    What Reaper said is good advise.

    You'll also want to add some weight to the bed and check the configuration of the plow. Check the western site for truck mount height and the config you need to set the pivot pins at. Best of luck
  9. Antlerart06

    Antlerart06 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,437

    early 80s chevy made a truck for heavy plows

    I installed a Snow Dog 7.5 even that plow put it one the ground I hate to see a MVP on one

    Like every body said jack the front end up or buy a Ford :gunsfiring:

    Good luck
  10. Diesel Dan

    Diesel Dan Senior Member
    Messages: 218

    T bar keys are a waste of money

    Exact same as turning the bars up.

    What you said above will do nothing different to relieve stress on tie-rods or ball joints.

    My advice would be: crank the bars 1.5" add timbrens, and get it aligned.

    *State certified in suspension systems, hydraulic brake systems, and gasoline engines*

    Also own a 2500HD with diesel and V plow
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2013
  11. derekbroerse

    derekbroerse 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    Have you added your ballast at the tailgate yet? Do that before you make any mechanical changes, it will lift your nose back up a ways by itself...
  12. REAPER

    REAPER 2000 Club Member
    from 60050
    Messages: 2,228

    Glad you're not my mechanic. :dizzy:
  13. If you take a torsion bar that is laying on a bench and paint a line straight down the length of the bar and then install it you might see that line twist a quarter turn once the weight of the truck is placed on it. That would be the amount of tension on that bar, you can't change the amount of tension unless you add more or take away weight on the suspension.
    Changing the keys only changes the clocking of the bar and the lower control arm, not the amount of tension it carries.
  14. DuramaxLML-42

    DuramaxLML-42 Senior Member
    Messages: 258

    Thats funny you say that... I remember my chevy holding your old 1100lbs mvp better than your furd??? Hmmm. I guess it was dark out that night. Who knows... lol
  15. Whiffyspark

    Whiffyspark 2000 Club Member
    from SOMD
    Messages: 2,402

    Hes right. It doesn't matter. Keys are a waste of money
  16. derekbroerse

    derekbroerse 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    Keys are for lifting the truck 1-2" without making the ride stiffer by putting more preload on the torsion bar...
  17. REAPER

    REAPER 2000 Club Member
    from 60050
    Messages: 2,228

    Eggsactly!!! :drinkup:

    Hence being the proper way to get the plow up off the ground. Thumbs Up
  18. derekbroerse

    derekbroerse 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    Nah, because you need the extra preload to hold the extra weight. But no matter what you do, you still end up putting more stress on the front end via angles etc. All the more reason I stuck with my solid front axle trucks... the S15 is the only independant and with the tbars turned up a little it still wore the ball joints... part of the game, I guess.
  19. Diesel Dan

    Diesel Dan Senior Member
    Messages: 218

    Once again keys only turn the bar, EXACTLY the same as adjusting the bolt.

    If you bought keys you could have saved some money and bought an 18MM socket.:rolleyes:
  20. Plow Nuts

    Plow Nuts Senior Member
    Messages: 214

    Being the owner of an 01 2500hd with a pro plus and the ultra mount srt up I sympothize with you. I am also an ase certified gm master tech. I simply turned up my torsion bars to raise the front of the truck 1" and added 750 lbs of ballast at the tailgate. With the plow up the truck sits nice and level. With the plow off and ballast removed she sits nice and level. Prior to the adjustments there were speed bumps I could not clear. I have 125 k on the truck and just replaced the lf inner tie rod end. All other front end parts are original and tight. The key is greasing the front end at every oil change. The ford guys would not know about that because the oe balljoints on ford trucks do not have grease fittings.