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western 1000 salter blowing fuses

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by R3Dside, Oct 29, 2012.

  1. R3Dside

    R3Dside Member
    Messages: 86

    I bought a used western 1000 salter, its in great shape and just "finished" the install.
    Although there is always a problem with anything that is complex. It is blowing the 30 amp inline main fuse. It will only spin when blast is pushed, and then only for about a quarter turn or half a second then it blows the fuse.
    It has a good ground right to the battery terminal.
    Anyone had this happen or know what to do? Many thanks to anyone who can help!
     
  2. deckboys

    deckboys Senior Member
    Messages: 198

    is it blowing fuses with salt in the salter? i know our 2000 would blow if it jammed up....check that the spinner spins freely even with salt you should be able to spin it
     
  3. mpriester

    mpriester Senior Member
    Messages: 404

    mine did the same thing last year. make sure its spinning free, check the bottom bearing, if everythings spinning free check the motor chances are its bad.
     
  4. R3Dside

    R3Dside Member
    Messages: 86

    nothing in the salter, & spins freely. Also I think it is odd that it only tries to spin when blast is pushed not when just the on is pushed. Is there an easy way to test the motor? Disconnect it and hook it to a battery directly? If so do I add a fuse then?
    Also when I bought it, the motor ran fine and did not blow a fuse, we ran it for probably 20 seconds and no problem.
     
  5. mpriester

    mpriester Senior Member
    Messages: 404

    mine ran great too without a load in the bin and as soon as i turned it on with salt in it the fuse blew. but it ran on blast. my windings were black from it getting hot. i don't know how to check it with a load on it.
     
  6. R3Dside

    R3Dside Member
    Messages: 86

    Sorry I think I mislead you, the spinner is not stuck, it spins freely by hand, but will not spin when turned on (w/o load) so then it pops the fuse. Could it be a short somewhere?
     
  7. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,974

    Did u try and run leads to it,,,,bypass the controller?
     
  8. R3Dside

    R3Dside Member
    Messages: 86

    short answer, no. Although I was wondering, If I do that should I add a fuse, or if its just the motor and the battery, would it not matter?
    Also I think I'd have to disconnect it from the harness, (is there a way to bypass the controller w/o doing so?) I might have not made much sense there. haha
     
  9. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,974

    Does it just have 2 wires ? If so then unplug and jump at Salter yea I would add the same size fuse if you have the means
     
  10. R3Dside

    R3Dside Member
    Messages: 86

    I will try that tomorrow and let you know. Thanks for the help. (The motor should run as it did when i bought it, but one can never be sure.)
     
  11. R3Dside

    R3Dside Member
    Messages: 86

    Well I probed the harness at the truck side connector and also again at the motor, both gave volt meter readings of zero. So that rules out the motor being the issue. Im getting pretty pissed off at this situation as I cannot afford any more downtime with this thing. It will be going to the Western dealer very soon as I have too many other things to deal with pre-season.
    Also notable: when I set the voltmeter to its lowest possible reading i got a number of 6.5, but the logo the dial is pointed to was not exactly the same as the other volt logos (Im guessing like milli-volts?) Either way I am not getting ever a full volt, let alone 12 so it must be a short or open in the circuit? Anyone know how to track this down further?
     
  12. R3Dside

    R3Dside Member
    Messages: 86

    Mine is having this issue while unloaded, but I was wondering, what did you do to fix your issue, replace the motor?