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Welding Stainless to Low Carbon

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by jb1390, Jan 29, 2010.

  1. jb1390

    jb1390 Senior Member
    Messages: 710

    I have a nasty habit of backing into snowbanks with my spreader. I also have a nasty habit of letting it slide around. While I have mostly solved said habits, now the chute is not as flat and true as I would like. While it is straight for the most part, there are two slotted holes that the spinner shaft pillow blocks bolt to. The blocks are cast iron, and hold the bearings that the spinner shaft rides on. The chain that drives the shaft can only be tightened by hand, which has not been sufficient to get the chain tension necessary without a tensioner or other mechanical method of putting force on the chain. It was sufficient however when the sheet metal was perfectly flat.

    Which brings me to my question-I would like to weld on reinforcements in the pillow block area that will remain flat (even if I lightly hit a snowbank)-I currently have two flat 1/8" pieces of stainless (304 or 316, not sure which, most likely 304). I would like to weld these plates onto the chute, and I am curious if I will have any trouble welding stainless to low carbon steel. I am planning on using stainless wire as well due to the corrosive environment. If the material is thicker, I can design a mechanical tensioner that will allow me to tighten the chain more correctly.
     
  2. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,339

    309 filler for welding steel to stainless. Are you TIG welding it ?
    T.J.
     
  3. jb1390

    jb1390 Senior Member
    Messages: 710

    I am planning on mig welding it. That is what I have at home-though I have a neighbor that can tig if it's necessary. It doesn't need to be an extremely structural weld, as this plate is adding to the structure that is there.
     
  4. jb1390

    jb1390 Senior Member
    Messages: 710

    I think the stainless wire spool I have is 308-will that be sufficient?
     
  5. tat2d_diver

    tat2d_diver Junior Member
    Messages: 16

    309 is ideal, but the 308 you have will work.
     
  6. welded wrenches

    welded wrenches Senior Member
    Messages: 177

    ss mig

    whichever wire u have ss or regular gas type will work becare not blow holes in the thinner stuf do several tacks here n there n more tacks here n therre stitch weld.-=----been using regular gas type wire (non-ss wire) on stainless exh.pipes for years no problem.laugh if you may ..but im cheap...
     
  7. no lead

    no lead PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,308

    why not make a simple 2" tube t bar to go in the hitch and impact whatever you feel you must run into?:rolleyes:
     
  8. jb1390

    jb1390 Senior Member
    Messages: 710

    I have mostly solved the hitting things by raising the spreader higher by 8+". It is now on a flatbed (I rebuilt the truck bed cuz it was beat up by the guy that had it before me), plus it is on a wooden frame that raises it another 5". I am thinking about installing the reciever hitch guard as well-but snowbanks had been the problem in the past. I will take some pics as I go along and post when i am done.
     
  9. jb1390

    jb1390 Senior Member
    Messages: 710

    Here it is the now plates welded in. No problems burning holes-I've gotten pretty good at welding thin stuff over the past few years. it did splatter a lot though-probably due to using the wrong shielding gas-I just used the 75/25 which is not what is recommended, but it seems structurally sound. The thicker plates now allow me to tighten the chain reliably-I took some pics of the problem spot before, and a pic of how the spreader is mounted now so i don't bang it on any more snow/ice banks.

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