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Warning For Torsion Bars

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by kemmer, Nov 20, 2006.

  1. kemmer

    kemmer Senior Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 329

    After talking to my mechanic today about torsions bars i learned that you shouldnt turn them up all the way. The reason for this is because when you have them extended so much you are extending your shocks and they will not allow as much drop as usual because they have extended more.. When you go over a bump or dip you may over extend them and damage or break them. So he recommended 3-4 max, if you want more lift get a lift kit.
  2. Antnee77

    Antnee77 PlowSite.com Addict
    from RI
    Messages: 1,056

    That's not even half the battle. The shock problem can be solved by replacing the crappy stocks with longer Bilsteins. The other issue is that when you max out your torsion keys, you're putting much more stress on the front steering/suspension components, and your CV axles are now on an angle and aren't getting lubed adequately. It isn't good to crank them much at all over the stock height.
  3. eng50

    eng50 Senior Member
    Messages: 125

    Just curious, if its that bad, why would the dealer level the truck for me when I took delivery? This involved 5 turns on one side and three on the other, I watched it being done! They said that the trucks settle out after they are assembled and that dealers are allowed to level the trucks on request.

  4. kemmer

    kemmer Senior Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 329

    Well your shocks can only go so far before breaking
  5. bowtie_guy

    bowtie_guy Senior Member
    Messages: 551

    On my 98 I have them cranked to the max. Leveled the truck first then added a 2" block in the back and raised the front to be level.

    Shocks are longer and CV angles arn't the best but I have seen worse. When the CV's go bad just buy a set with lifetime warrenty and then exchange when needed. Worst thing about cranking is the upper ball joints wear faster.

    I've been running this truck like this for 3 years now.

    Just leveling is fine.
  6. Bad Luck

    Bad Luck Senior Member
    Messages: 741

    Just about maxxed on mine for over two years. No issues, yet, and the truck has seen some pretty f'ed up roads here in NJ. Not to mention the occasional blast through the back woods. I'm sure that this can be a problem, but I am yet to hear anyone post about it.
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2006
  7. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Ok Bad luck, I guess I'll post the first one! LOL I just fixed a guys truck a couple of weeks ago that ran it with the bar's turned up all year round. It was a 99' K2500 with an 8.2 Boss V. After he installed the plow 3 year's ago he turned up the bars to relevel the truck. It still had the stock shocks on it....it didn't damage the shocks.....IT TORE THE UPPER SHOCK BRACKETS RIGHT OFF THE FRAME ON BOTH SIDES!! In the prosses the bracket took some of the frame with it! The guy call's me up and says he has a noise in the front end of his truck when he goes over a bump.He brings the truck out and I take a look at it and I said " Yea, I guess you would have a noise!" :dizzy:
  8. JeffNY

    JeffNY Senior Member
    Messages: 484

    My '94 has has them turned up to the max for 3 years now, and I just turned my new truck up 5 3/4 turns. I'll post when something "breaks"
  9. lawnmasters2006

    lawnmasters2006 Senior Member
    Messages: 215

    The Whole Ideais To Turn Them Up In The Winter,an Turn Back Down After Winter...if U Turn The Up To Far,the Truck Ack Like I T Is On A Poggo Stick In Front,bouncing Up An Down ...means U Turned Them Up To Far..
  10. Bad Luck

    Bad Luck Senior Member
    Messages: 741

    Huh? What? If you have your t-bars cranked and the truck is acting like a pogo stick you may have some other issues there....

    B&B - My question to that guy would be what the h*** did he do with the truck to make the suspension drop like that in the first place? Because if he hit something hard enough for both mounts to tear there must have been one hell of a shock to that area . Like I said above I'm sure there are issues that can come from it, but I've never (with the exception of just now) heard of anything happening.
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2006
  11. Yaz

    Yaz PlowSite.com Addict
    from NH
    Messages: 1,061

    I'm a believer that you can go a little but not all the way. It like everything, Only in moderation is OK but not to much, because your asking for issues like other have said. I did 4.5 on one side and 4 on the other the day I bought it. the still have half the threads showing. I have the 4800 lb front rated springs, but some I believe are less.

    30K no issues
  12. JIM D

    JIM D Junior Member
    Messages: 4

    The solution to the T-bar problem should be:
    GM should get their head out of their "arse", and put a solid fron axle on the 3500 series, and for those looking for a more comfortable ride, keep the T-bars on the 2500 series. Don't get me wrong, I love my Chevy truck, but with my purchase of my new one, I thought long and hard about going with a Ford, just to get a beefier front end. I decided that i would rather have a front end wear out in 4 years, rather than be blowing turbos through my hood, and having my truck in the shop every other week with tranny issues. (My brother has an F-350 PSD.....bad things man.....bad things!!!!):realmad: In order to "baby" the front end on the new truck i got a 7 1/2 foot plow instead of an 8 1/2 this time around, which did not thrill me too much.
  13. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Well,he didn't "hit" anything.It didn't happen all at one time.Judging by the rust on the cracks around the bracket I'd say it took a couple of month's to finally pull the brackets loose. After I got the truck apart I saw what had happened.The way the suspension is designed, there's a metal bracket that act's as a "stop" under the rear of the upper A arm to stop the suspension from dropping too far and pulling on the shock.What had happended is from running it with the bar's turned up all the time the upper A arm was bottoming out on the upper stop,and after a while the A arm bent the stop down thus allowing the suspension to drop further than the shock was designed for.So the next limiting stop was the shock! So when the suspension would drop it "jerked" on the shock until it pulled the shock mount off the frame. Most guy's that complain of a rough ride after turning up their bar's are actually feeling the suspension dropping and bottoming out on the stop, They think it's from stiffening up the bar. You can't make a torsion bar "stiffer" by changing it's adjustment,the spring rate is made in to the bar. When you turn up the bar's on a GM you do change the geometry of the suspension slighty that the bar "see's" though. Your just adding preload to the bar.
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2006
  14. Antnee77

    Antnee77 PlowSite.com Addict
    from RI
    Messages: 1,056

    Soon enough, these will be released, and I'll be getting them, hopefully.
  15. Jay brown

    Jay brown PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,783

    i leave my T bars where they are and keep the nice ride that chevys are known for. i have fords if i want to drive a truck that rides like a truck.
  16. lawnmasters2006

    lawnmasters2006 Senior Member
    Messages: 215

    Originally Posted by Bad Luck
    Huh? What? If you have your t-bars cranked and the truck is acting like a pogo stick you may have some other issues there....

    try it an u will find out..its cuz u have streched the front end to the max an it will jump...been ther done that..i had to lower mine after i fount this out.
    on a chevy u can get 3 inch lift in the front ,but makes truck real unsteady in the front:gunsfiring:
  17. hillndale

    hillndale Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 60

    Ok You guys are gettin' me worried. I got a new '06 2500HD in Sept and researched the T bar adjust. Everyone says to crank them 4 turns for plowing. I just got my Boss 8' SD straight blade installed. The installer says they have to crank the T bars 4 turns to install the plow. So the plow is now installed. I went and got an alignment, as suggested, and they said the front end was raised 2". Does 4 turns result in 2" of lift?

    I've also installed Timbrens on the front end. I definately noticed the height adjust and do feel the ride has been compromised a little. It is a little stiffer ride.

    So is my truck gonna be OK or what? This topic yeilds a lot of different responses, from truck dealers, plow installers, as well as the "plowsite gang". Jeez it's wicked confusing :dizzy:

    Thanks for any feedback!

  18. kemmer

    kemmer Senior Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 329

    I think the rougher ride is from the timbrens, they are alot stiffer than the older ones you had in your truck
  19. Bad Luck

    Bad Luck Senior Member
    Messages: 741

    Pushing 56k on my truck with the T-bars cranked.

    It made the front a little more responsive, less body roll. It does not bounce up and down like a pogo stick. When I originally did it, I had 6/5 turns on the passenger, and 7.25 turns on the driver to keep the truck level. I have since dropped back down 1.5 turns on both sides in order to keep the front end aligned. My front end is tight. No play from ball joints, torn or worn axles, or tie rod ends. BUT THIS IS MY TRUCK, not anyone elses. There are a lot of configurations so each one is different. I made sure when I cranked mine up that all the angles up front still "looked" like they were good and not to excessive. Also, I did NOT need an alignment after cranking mine. I drove it straight to the dealer after cranking, they checked and everything was in GM spec and the truck drove straight.

    The bottom line is this: If you are going to do this, start out with two turns on each side. Take the truck for a ride. Come back and check your ride height, and your front suspension geometry to make sure none of the angles are too great. Crank one or two more. Drive, check etc. No one can tell you how many to crank. You have to try it on your truck and see what works best.

    ALSO - If you are installing Timbrens they should be in contact with the lower a-arm at rest unloaded. If not, when your suspension compresses it's going to hit the spring and give the feel of a rougher ride. Do a search, I have pics somewhere on this site.
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2006
  20. jvm81

    jvm81 Senior Member
    from Midwest
    Messages: 381

    I have a 2500HD GMC. First installing new fan clutch - always overheating. 2 I have a Hiniker V plow up front. Alot of weight. The plow guys turned up the torsion bars all the way last winter. Trucks rides good, little rought empty down the road but it is our work truck. Now I have timbrens - should I start al over with torsion bars. And if so, turn them all the way down after install of timbren and they turn as needed? New to this aspect but would rather play with it than bring it to the dealer 1/2 dozen times and pay them.