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walk behind tamper. bolts sheered off have question..

Discussion in 'Heavy Equipment' started by WhitePlowr, Oct 8, 2011.

  1. WhitePlowr

    WhitePlowr Senior Member
    Messages: 148

    im borrowing my friends tamper. its your stander side for patios walks , driverways whatever. he got it at an auction and i cant find any numbers except it has a honda gx160 motor on it. so im using this thing for 20 minutes and it starts to not move and make a louder noise i was done anyway . next day i go to use itmoves 2 feet then 3 bolts roll out the sides. some how the 4 bolts holding the rumble motor thing to the bottom metal plate sheered right off 1 survived. took it apart . the bolts broke off flush with plate but they were loose so with a hammer and flat head i worked them out. now to the important part. the bolts say REMAX 4.6 they had lock washers and regular washers and are about 2-3" long. can you replace these with 8 grade or is a 4.6 a special "Stretch" bolt and if it is how tight do i tighten these down all the way or half way so the lock washer is compressed but not super tight???? any ideas??? thanks
     
  2. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,652

    4.6 is basically the weakest rating for metric bolts, I would say someone at some point was being very cheap.
     
  3. WhitePlowr

    WhitePlowr Senior Member
    Messages: 148

    i just picked up (4) 8.8 grade bolts new lock washers and regular washers . how tight do i make it? hand tight til the lock washer flatens out???? i just notiched something else on the pulley coming off the motor there seems to be a round spring that is broken on this tamper i dont know where it attached or what it does . i didnot take the pulley off the motor shaft to get the two belts on i was just able to roll them on one by one. anyone know if that spring is important? thanks
     
  4. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,652

    Here is a chart for make torque based on grade and bolt size. I would also use some loctite. As far as the spring, I have never taken one apart so I have no idea what it goes to but would think it is there for a reason.


    http://www.dansmc.com/torque_chart.htm
     
  5. drp

    drp Senior Member
    from ontario
    Messages: 170

    centrifugal clutch spring one of two or three. They are behind the engine pulley, they attach the clutch pads together. when the rpm increase they allow the clutch pads to extend and engage the belt pulley.
     
  6. WhitePlowr

    WhitePlowr Senior Member
    Messages: 148

    yes DRP i found that out its a centri clutch. so the local small engines guy told me you can still operate it without the spring its just gonna vib alot at idle idle istead of disengaging . i need to fix the spring or replace it. ok guy here is the problem i put those 8 grade bolts in and thought everything was fine. started it up and the bolts threads vibbed smooth and popped right out . it looks like i might have to tap them to the next size up. anyone know anything about bolting the vib motor to the bottom metal plate? anything special? just 8 grade bolts, lock washers and thread lock what am i missing??? the other thing was the pulls with the two belts werent 100% aligned straight but never had a belt problem.
     
  7. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,652

    You can try heli coils. Also a 8.8 metric is about the same as a grade 5 in SAE. Think once you have good threads you should be fine.
     
  8. WhitePlowr

    WhitePlowr Senior Member
    Messages: 148

    just took it apart again the bolt size appears to be 12mm - 1.75 and threads inside are pretty much shot . i have to go to the autoparts store tomorrow and see what the next size bolt and tap they have im guessing 9/16" or 13 or 14mm?? idk this tamper is putting a damper on my party lol