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used plow swap troubleshooting

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by crecore, Oct 16, 2011.

  1. crecore

    crecore Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    I plowed professionally back in the early 90's with an 85 F150 that is actually still running and plowing. I just bought an 8' HD MM2 slightly used off an F250, he was getting a stainless V blade. Putting on my 02 Dodge 2500. I then bought the mounts and used wiring and iso module (4 port) from another guy from a 99 or 2000 Dodge 2500.

    Did the wiring and the mounts in a day so it all went well. Lights all work as they are suppose to. Power at the joystick with key on. Raise and lower work fine. Plow is angled right, right on the joystick only clicks the solenoid, and left raises the plow.

    I really dont think this is a wiring problem. But, the plow functioned fine on the F250. I surmise that the 2 hour trip with the plow laying on its face in the back of my truck with the headgear leaning to the right may have either bound up a cylinder with air, forced some junk into the S2 valve or something like that.

    The mechanics guide points me to S2 looking at the hydraulic schematic that makes sense. Any tips about removing and cleaning, testing, etc? Any other simple things to check?

    thanks
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2011
  2. Arc Burn

    Arc Burn PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,139

    Try a known good controll,joystick or fishstik,that is a classic symptom for a bad PC board in the controll
     
  3. buddymanzpop

    buddymanzpop Senior Member
    Messages: 601

    Do as Arc burn and test with a known good controller, but most times your symtoms are as you expect the S2, you could swap coils from another valve to check for a bad coil and if it's not a bad coil then you can pull it (S2) and sometimes have some luck cleaning it but most often you need to buy a new one. You can remove the valve re-install the coil onto the valve out of the valve block and put power to the coil you should get a good noticeable movement from the plunger in the coil so you see different ports opening, if not it's stuck.
     
  4. crecore

    crecore Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    A brand new fish stick at the dealer counter did the same thing today. Pulled S2 and it is free and clean moves back and forth pushing on the end. Weird, this thing all worked. Drained all fluid and refilled, no changes. I will switch the S2 and S3 coils and see what happens.
     
  5. crecore

    crecore Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    OK, I actually switch S1 and S2 coils, no change. So no bad coils, but that doesnt count out the valves though. Since I have never had one apart.. how much movement should they have? It didnt seem like a lot but enough that I could see the two sets of ports opening and closing, 3/16" of an inch maybe? I cant switch the valves as they are all different according to the schematic. I hate to start blindly throwing parts at it (those valves are pricey).
     
  6. buddymanzpop

    buddymanzpop Senior Member
    Messages: 601

    You should be able to see the complete opening and closing of the ports, while you have it out try cleaning it and gently blowing it out with air, if you aren't sure about the movement you could pull another valve and watch that one for movement, and yes those valves are pricey. I have a few plows so when it comes to the valves I have the option of swapping known good one for testing. Do you have a friend that would offer up a test valve from his plow?
     
  7. crecore

    crecore Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    I unplugged the 3 pin harness only, manually jumpered the coils per the schematics, and crossed the solenoid with a screwdriver and everything worked as it should!! I then had my daughter turn the key in the truck on and work the joystick. I checked the truck side harness and was getting weird results. Varying results in fact. This harness had a previous repair near the end but it looked good (one wire re crimped then covered with heat shrink). Anyway it became suspect so I cut it off! I then stripped the three wires back, folded them over and jammed them into the corresponding plow connector. Now left, right and up are all working fine! Ordered replacement connector. Now, my down is still just dropping to the ground from any height. Joystick is like new. What now?
     
  8. crecore

    crecore Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    3 pin truck side Repair connector did the trick on the left and right. Adjusted the valve on the topside to slow down the up and down.

    Now only problem remaining is that angle left still stops very abruptly! I switched to a fishstick with the softstop and this helped only slightly but when you angle left then stop it shakes the entire truck! right is normal. I adjusted both bypass valves didnt help. would a bad bypass valve cause this? which one?