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Urethane edge installation question.

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by Sndun, Dec 1, 2002.

  1. Sndun

    Sndun Member
    Messages: 56

    I did a search and found a thread with a similar question but it turned into a steel vs. urethane debate which left the original question unanswered.

    I just installed a u-edge on my 6'8" SnoWay. I have 2" exposed from the moldboard in the rear but with the steel edge flipped there's only .75" showing in the front. My question is can it be left as is or will the u-edge flex to the point where the steel edge will make contact with the ground?

    Of course we haven't had any snow here yet to test it out but hopefully that will change very soon. Thanks in advance for any advice/comments.

    from NJ
    Messages: 196

    I had heard that you want the u edge to protrude the same amount as it is thick.. so if the edge is 1" thick it should extend 1" from the bottom of the moldboard... I was also told not to use the steel edge upside down to hold the U edge in place.. said to use a piece of flat stock steel and drill it to match the holes in the edge and it will act like a big washer, which is all you need acording to someone I talked to.. But I have no experience with an actual u edge to say it works or not /??
  3. Garagekeeper

    Garagekeeper Senior Member
    Messages: 459

    Plow edge over Poly edge

    I personally would remove the steel edge. There is no reason to reinstall it unless you want the extra weight. Yes it will keep the poly edge up against the blade better and add some extra stiffness to the edge ,but will also hold all the snow and ice onto your plow too. You want to have just the poly edge come in contact with the pavement and curbs. I've tried mounting them that way when I first started selling poly edges several years ago but now I just install the edges using large washers under the head of the bolts. John

    from NJ
    Messages: 196

    while we are on this topic.... what would you use as new bolts ??? longer carrige bolts or standard hex head bolts, would you use nylock nuts or nuts and lock washers ?? also what grade would you want to use ?? grade 5 or 8 or is plain old 2 suffiecient for an edge ?? my guess is 5 ??
  5. Garagekeeper

    Garagekeeper Senior Member
    Messages: 459

    Poly Edge

    Using a 3/8x2" strip drilled to fit your plows bolt pattern makes an excellent retainer. I use grade 5 fastners the same size as what was removed with a lock washer and a standard nut. Using grade 5 carridge bolts will work and will give your edge a nice finished look but wait till your want to remove it. There's nothing to hold onto on the front of the edge. As far as letting the poly over hang the side, well that's up to you and what size edge you order. John
  6. Waterchikn

    Waterchikn Senior Member
    Messages: 106

    Seems I have heard all good things about the edges. Was supposed to get one last year, but the lack of snow prevented my plan. I know there are a couple of users here that sell them and I would like more info, PM me please. I thing putting the hex bolts rather than carriage bolts would much improve the ablity to remove the edge and flip/replace it over time! Also seems like the thicker the edge, the better results you would have...but I dunno ....yet...
  7. Sndun

    Sndun Member
    Messages: 56

    I used the same style and type bolts that were on there, just used longer ones. Looks like my only option is to have a piece of metal fabbed to replace the steel edge which will leave me with two inches hanging down in the front as well. :(
  8. plowking35

    plowking35 2000 Club Member
    from SE CT
    Messages: 2,923

    I have used old steel edges, flat stock drilled to match, but never the washers. I am not saying that doesnt work, but for me that is the least attractive option. I have used both longer plow type bolts and hex bolts, I have not had any issues with either type. Just get at least a dgrade 5. If anyone ever has questions regarding urethane, give me a call at 860-608-1842, even if you didnt buy it from me.
  9. BRL

    BRL PlowSite.com - Veteran
    Messages: 1,277

    Actually, if you are going to use the fabbed flat bar, you probably want to drill a separate set of holes to leave an inch overhang. Then when it wears down you can use the second set of holes to lower it again & have another inch over hang (this might be a few years down the road, being in NJ & assuming you bought a good quality U-edge ;) ) Otherwise, you can just use the steel edge you already have with out a problem as mentioned by Dino. If its a good quality U-edge there won't be the flex problem you mention with using the steel edge & the 2" overhang (after the break in period - follow the instructions you received). Good luck with it & hopefully you get to check it out this year!!
  10. Sndun

    Sndun Member
    Messages: 56

    Hey, mine didn't come with any directions!!!!! (*cough* Dino *cough*) ;)

    Actually, I didn't think I really needed any. Seemed straight forward and it was.

    Our Pathfinder went on no problem as did the SnoWay it's just that the holes in the steel edge are closer to the top on the Pathfinder than on the SnoWay. I have exactly 2" front and back on the Pathfinder but on the SnoWay the bolt holes are about an inch in so that's why I only have .75" showing in the front while 2" exposure in back.
  11. EIB

    EIB Senior Member
    Messages: 258

    Hi Guys,

    I would like to get one for my MVP. Has any one install a edge on a MVP? Also does any one have any pictures of one installed on any plow? I have another question. What do you mean by u edge? I thought the edge was flat and then wears in at a angle. Sorry if it's a dumb question.
  12. Mick

    Mick PlowSite.com Veteran
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,546

    EIB, since no one has answered you yet - "u" is short for urethane. Not a dumb question, though.

    DYNA PLOW Senior Member
    Messages: 295

    as far as the bolts go i use longer stainless steel carrige bolts, yes
    they are more expensive but there is no corrosion factor and the nyloc nuts come right off.
    EIB, i put a uedge on my MVP plow this fall. instalation went fine
    however i will inform you that the center wiper will also need to be lowered depending on how far you have the new edge hanging down,i set mine at 1 1/4". i have not used it yet but if you have more ?'s just ask. Plowking will not steer you wrong with answers to your u edge ?'s.
  14. plowking35

    plowking35 2000 Club Member
    from SE CT
    Messages: 2,923

    I have found that 1.5" of overhang past the moldboard is ideal, and will all but eliminate any chatter. 2" overhang may still cause some chatter. This is with 1.5" thick edges, 1" thick edges may still chatter at 1.5" of overhang. With your snoway, it sounds like your steel edge was still pretty wide, like 4.5-5" or so. A steel strip may be your best bet.
  15. Mike Nelson

    Mike Nelson Senior Member
    Messages: 637

    Installed our first Artic Groomer back in 99-00 plow season on our 9'-2" Boss V blade just the way Dino told us to do. We used the old cutting edge on the outside to hold on the U blade and bought longer bolts with lockwashers and locknuts.

    After three years and over 225 hrs. of plowing on the U blade, we finally worn down a 1 1/2 inches of blade. Thanks to Dino's advice we already have our next set of holes drilled and ready to lower the blade down.

    Just had a new Blizzard installed last week and will be putting on a U blade it next week. Thanks to Jerre Heyer and his pictures of the U blade he did on a Blizzard.

    We have U blades on most of our plows and pushers,they range in size from 8' to 24'. They may not scrape down to pavement in all storms, but the safety from hitting something and stressing the equipment is well worth it.

    Using Artic Groomer U blades, our treated salt and liquid deicers makes our snow removal biz run a lot smoother.

    Happy Plowing :)