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Universal Joint Replacement

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by HVYMTL, Jul 26, 2003.

  1. HVYMTL

    HVYMTL Junior Member
    from IL.
    Messages: 17

    Questions for the do it yourselfers,

    1999 suburban 1/2 ton 4x4- 350 gas automatic, electronic on the fly transfer case

    I am trying to replace the joints in rear drive shaft.

    I have heated up the yoke and melted the nylon tab retainers out, after it cooled, placed in vise with sockets- applied much pressure etc. tapped on yoke ends etc.

    doesn't budge - I give up.

    Think I will take the shaft to a shop and let them fix it.


    My thoughts(maybe expsensive ones)-

    Can I put the elc.-pushbutton shift front axle in full time lockup and drive on front shaft only with rear shaft removed?

    will this leak any fluid out rear output shaft?

    cause any exception stress (scew it up) on the front drive line?

    thought maybe I could drive back and forth to work next week while rear shaft is in the shop.

    I know I can do this on a 20-30 year old 4x4 but wasn't sure about the new stuff.

    has any one done this on this model truck/transmision?
     
  2. snowjoker

    snowjoker Senior Member
    Messages: 283

    Is there a metal lock ring in the inner part of the u-joint? or outer part? If not it should come out just like the older ones.I take a socket the size of the u-jont and hammer on it to get it out.Or take the torch and cut it out carefully or heat it up good then hammer it out ;)
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2003
  3. John DiMartino

    John DiMartino PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 2,154

    heat it up til it melts,then tap the cups out while its still hot/molten,they should pop right out.
     
  4. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    John's got it,press them out while they are hot.

    You can also heat them a little longer until all the injected fiberglass is expelled,so they come out a little easier.

    The vise will work OK,but if you want to do it right,then borrow,rent or buy one of these.It will save damage to the shaft.If you bend the ears in when trying to press it out,you'll have a heck of a time getting the inner snap rings in place,and the joint will be to tight.See pic below.

    ball joint press.jpg
     
  5. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Forgot to answer the rest of your question.

    Yes,if you put it in 4WD,you can drive it.

    Yes it will leak some fluid out the rear seal.You'll need an old slip yoke to slide into the transfer case to plug it up.

    Yes,you can damage it,but only due to losing the transfer case fluid out the rear seal,and it running low on oil.You could maybe go a short distance,but I wouldn't want to drive it for a week.
     
  6. HVYMTL

    HVYMTL Junior Member
    from IL.
    Messages: 17

    Thanks for all the advice.

    I gritted teeth and heated things up more than I really wanted to, and cut the #$%^&* out.

    cleaned up, opened new joint up, proceeded to install and knock caps off, drop in dirt, not once but many times, search for tiny rollers in grass, clean up regrease, etc, etc...

    Get all installed, try to finish grease, can't get to zerk, remove drive shaft again, grease, reinstall...

    I fun time was had by all :)

    now I know why I should have bought the "grease though end version"
     
  7. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    I have dropped more then my share of rollers doing joints. Now I make sure to clean a nice spot off on the beanch wipe it down and do all assembly there. To mch time wasted on the ground looking for parts over the years. Take the time to set up a good work area before you began.
     
  8. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    For greasing those hard to get grease fittings,you need a needle adpater that snaps onto the end of your grease gun.
     
  9. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    They look like this.

    needle.jpg