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Universal (drive shaft) zerk greasing...

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by mkwl, Aug 28, 2009.

  1. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,361

    I'd like to re-grease the zerks on the front and rear universal joints on my truck. I'm wondering what the correct procedure is to avoid damage to them- the manual does not really discuss it. Any thoughts- and what type of grease is best for them?

    Thanks,
    matt
     
  2. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Be sure to give each zerk a wipe with a clean shop rag before you insert the gun onto the zerk to prevent forcing any outside contaminates into the joint. You want to pump the grease in until you see it purging from all four bearing caps. This helps to purge any water or other contaminates from the joint and also helps to keep the grease passages in the joint clear for the next servicing.

    As for grease, any chassis grease with a #2 NLGI rating is fine but once you choose the grease base type (lithium, moly, full synthetic etc) try to stay with it. You don't want to mix different types of grease if at all possible. Some guys prefer lithium based, some moly, some full synthetic etc. I prefer the full synthetics myself but it's more personal choice and easy availability than anything.
     
  3. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,361

    Thanks B&B, so it's not really possible to "over-grease" the bearings then, right?
     
  4. WilliamOak

    WilliamOak PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,986

    Matt, you are quite the maintenance man. Tushae! I'd definitely keep up on the axle U joints, they're a b*tch to replace. the driveshafts arent too bad but its still easier to just grease them! It always seems like your on top of any possible issues with your truck, keep that up and youll be passing the truck on to your grandchildren.
     
  5. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Not in the prospective that you'll cause any damage no, just makes a mess if you over grease.. :D
     
  6. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,361

    Thanks! I figure if I take care of 'er it'll save me in the long run. If you're going to buy something expensive like a truck, why not take care of it, right?
     
  7. RichG53

    RichG53 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,135

    Every thing gets a shot of grease with my oil changes.... Cheap insurance !!!!
     
  8. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,361

    Okay thanks!

    What is the proper outlined procedure for greasing the other zerks on the truck, as well as their locations?

    Thanks!
     
  9. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    The rest of the zerk's are a little different, on the steering and suspension for example as they use a rubber boot to provide a sealing means. You don't want to over grease them or you can risk blowing those protective boot open thus compromising it's sealing abilities. When greasing those you only want to add grease until the boot feels firm when you squeeze it with your fingers. Once it's firm, stop.

    Look around the steering and suspension and you'll find all the zerk. There are 11 in total. 4 on the ball joints, 4 on the tie rods, 1 on the Pitman arm and 2 on the Idler arm.
     
  10. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Do the newer trucks still have a grease fitting on the front driveshaft slip yoke?
     
  11. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    No they don't. Because there is no slip yoke so to speak. They're simply splined directly into the T-case.
     
  12. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    I tried to get you, but no luck. I'm just too old school I guess. I did buy my first electric carburetor this week though..........

    Those GM engineers really know how to save a buck, huh? Pretty soon the trucks will have a transaxle behind/under the engine. Two CV shafts out the side, and a driveshaft out the back. Kind of like an '83 Toronado (top ten ugly car), but with low range.
     
  13. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    It's actually a better design that I favor. When's the last time you tried to remove a front D-shaft on an '88-'98 that that slip joint was seldom or never greased in it's life span? Can't collapse them for removal with a 20 ton press if you could even get one in there. :D Current design slips right out every time if ever needed. One less U-joint to maintain or replace too.