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Unimount MVP - Motor Won't Run

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by dieseldirt, Oct 31, 2013.

  1. dieseldirt

    dieseldirt Junior Member
    from vermont
    Messages: 16

    I recently picked up a used (2-plug) Unimount MVP, with used controller. I have never seen it work, but it "looks" to be in pretty good shape.

    Just put in brand new truck side harnesses (66610 and 66623). Double-checked everything. Went over all connections, including making sure nobody has monkeyed with plowside harnesses.

    When I work the controller, I hear the solenoid click but nothing else happens. Solenoid and power cables all get warm.

    Tried hotwiring the motor with some big jumper cables. Hooked the battery straight to the motor and still nothing. Gets hot, and sparks a lot.........

    So is my motor/pump junk, or what....? The plow has been sitting for a few years. I do trust the guys I bought it from (although they are pretty much strangers) and they said it worked fine when they parked it.

    My truckside solenoid is "newer" ... I don't know about the plowside solenoid. Could it cause all this?

    Any help much appreciated!
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2013
  2. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,924

    I would say its the motor. Remove it (pretty straight forward 2 bolts and the electrical cables) and see if you can even spin by hand. Then for grins hook the jumper cables back up and see if its really bad. No spin = bad replace
     
  3. dieseldirt

    dieseldirt Junior Member
    from vermont
    Messages: 16

    Thanks, I will pull the motor when it quits raining..
     
  4. dieseldirt

    dieseldirt Junior Member
    from vermont
    Messages: 16

    OK I pulled the motor and there's plenty of corrosion in there from sitting outside.. The shaft in the pump turns freely, but the motor shaft was stuck. I was able to get it turning on the bench, however when I put the jumper cables to it, still nothing.

    So, I ordered a Western motor for $150. Hopefully I will be up and running here shortly...
     
  5. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,924

    Good deal.
     
  6. dieseldirt

    dieseldirt Junior Member
    from vermont
    Messages: 16

    I was hoping you'd say that.
     
  7. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,924

    Before you put the new motor back in. There's a few steps that you should take just for an extra measure
     
  8. cet

    cet PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,202

    Why do you have 2 solenoids?
     
  9. dieseldirt

    dieseldirt Junior Member
    from vermont
    Messages: 16

    Yep, I tried to delete that part. I have one solenoid like everybody else, I was just confused when I wrote that.
     
  10. dieseldirt

    dieseldirt Junior Member
    from vermont
    Messages: 16

    I'm listening!

    :mechanic:
     
  11. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,924

    the motor sits on top of the pump housing correct?
    before you put the motor on, tap out the bolt holes, 1/4 x 20 I believe
    inspect the copper bushing for massive wear and proper fit
    clean the pump as needed, wire cup brush
    then on the bolt holes, and the motor mating surface, use dielectric grease.
    the motor also has a few small holes that you can squirt a little grease into as well
    since there is no gasket or o-ring inbetween the motor and pump they tend to go at each other once they get wet and the dissimilar metal monsters start acting on each other.
     
  12. dieseldirt

    dieseldirt Junior Member
    from vermont
    Messages: 16

    Thanks, I appreciate the info!

    One thing though, the motor and pump are side-by-side on this one. "Flostat hydraulics" or whatever.
     
  13. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,924

    Ok wasn't sure. But it still applies aluminum pump body and steel canister. Add water and electricity and you get corrosion
     
  14. dieseldirt

    dieseldirt Junior Member
    from vermont
    Messages: 16

    I really appreciate the help. I will follow your instructions. Got my parts last night, I am putting a new relay in as well. The Western brand relay that I just received is round. Makes the one currently in my truck look funny, that one is more "I" shaped, not sure where it came from..
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2013
  15. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,924

    The new solenoids are a little beefier which is nice. The I ones are the older ones
     
  16. dieseldirt

    dieseldirt Junior Member
    from vermont
    Messages: 16

    I am up and running, fully functional. Pretty nice feeling on an untested, used plow.

    This is my first V-Plow, I am surprised there is no grease fittings for the pin that the 2 blades pivot on. No grease fittings at all, come to think of it.

    I was wondering, what is the correct procedure for setting chain length? The ram should be all the way in when doing this, correct?
     
  17. dieseldirt

    dieseldirt Junior Member
    from vermont
    Messages: 16

    Ok, good. I ended up leaving my old one in, and putting the new one in the glovebox.
     
  18. SnowMatt13

    SnowMatt13 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,530

    In answer to your chain setting. Yes your lift arm/cylinder should be all the way down. Once you do this there should be a little slack in the chain otherwise getting the link arms disconnected will be pain because they will still have tension on them.
     
  19. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,924

    You want about 2-3 inches of chrome showing on the lift ram.