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Unimount intermitent problem

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by Joe41, Dec 11, 2009.

  1. Joe41

    Joe41 Junior Member
    Messages: 22

    I have about a ten year old 9' Unimount. I can be plowing for about an hour and then it won't raise. (Sometimes it won't angle but 90% of the time it's the raise) Then a few mins. later it's fine again? I replaced the 9 pin plugs (Both sides) thinking a pin was broken but it didn't help. I have the Western service sheets to diagnose, but it never happens when I'm at home (of course!). The best I can come up with is it's the joystick controller or cartridge valves and/or coils? Either way I'm looking at $200 plus for just a guess! Any ideas would be great. Thank you, Joe
     
  2. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,031

    I would replace the S3 Cartridge for sure.
     
  3. Joe41

    Joe41 Junior Member
    Messages: 22

    That's kind of what I'm thinking too. I don't know for sure, but I would think that if the controller was bad, it wouldn't work at all?
     
  4. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,031

    It might, but my money is on the cartridge.
     
  5. tom.807

    tom.807 Junior Member
    Messages: 23

    As always intermittant problems are hard to repair. In this case i would dismantle s3 but should do them all. Give them a good cleaning and and inspect the sealing rings and back up washers. Sounds like you may have debris floating around in the control block. Weak coils or low voltage will also do similar charateristics. Now the trouble shooting gets a little more involved. Get a service manual for coil tests and other important specs. First and formost clean and dump the fluid. Use compresed low air pressure for cartridges and block, change filter. Make sure the valve stems move without binding. Add new oil and test, now we have eliminated much of the possibles
     
  6. Joe41

    Joe41 Junior Member
    Messages: 22

    Is there any o-rings on the cartridges that I should replace?
     
  7. coolgeo

    coolgeo Junior Member
    Messages: 10

    when your having this problem is the pump motor running or not if its not is the solenoid under the hood clicking you may have to shut the truck off to hear
     
  8. tom.807

    tom.807 Junior Member
    Messages: 23

    0-rings ???

    tymusicUNLESS YOU HAVE A MAJOR SEAL KIT AT YOUR DISPOSAL THE O- RINGS ARE CRITICAL ON THE VALVES TO EVEN WORK. JUST CHECK THEM CLOSELY FOR ANY WEAR OR TEARS LUBE AND RE-ASEMBLE. THEY SHOULD BE CHANGED BUT ONLY IF YOU KNOW YOU HAVE THE RIGHT ONES. THEY ARE LOCATED ON ALL THE VALVES AND ELSWHERE IN YOUR SYSTEM. WESTERN DOES OFFER A MAJOR SEAL KIT FOR ALL THEIR PLOWS, DONT KNOW IF YOU HAVE A GOOD SELECTION AT HOME BUT PROPER ONES ARE CRITICAL. OFTEN NEW VALVES CAN BE BOUGHT ON E-BAY WITH O-RINGS FOR THE PRICE OF JUST THE KIT
     
  9. RAZOR

    RAZOR Senior Member
    Messages: 342

    I had a similar problem with my old uni-mount. After a couple hours of use it would not raise then it would start to work fine again after a few minutes. It turned out to be the joystick controler was bad. I bought a used Fisher EZV last year and after a few minutes it started doing the same thing, it was the fishstik that was gone. I got a new joystick and it works fine now. My guess would be your contoler.
     
  10. twinman326

    twinman326 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,683

    That happen to me last night..My joy stick controller was causing the problem..Glad I had a extra one.Replace it and it is working fine..
     
  11. tom.807

    tom.807 Junior Member
    Messages: 23

    Yes a bad controller causes a incorrect voltage at coils thus issues. Coil test for magnetism while operating will spot that when acting up.
     
  12. Joe41

    Joe41 Junior Member
    Messages: 22

    Wow, that's interesting that you guys had issues with the controller acting up as well. I just hate to wait for the next storm to try and diagnose it.
     
  13. Joe41

    Joe41 Junior Member
    Messages: 22

    Also for the question about the motor, yes it does spin when it's acting up.
     
  14. tom.807

    tom.807 Junior Member
    Messages: 23

    we just have to be smarter than that plow

    tymusic
    THATS MORE OF A INDICATION THAT THE CONTROLLER IS WORKING BUT ARE THE VALVES WORKING. CHECK FOR MAGNETISM ON EACH COIL WITH A SCREWDRIVER WHILE SOMEONE OPERATES THE CONTROL. BE CAREFUL AS THE PLOW WILL FUNCTION. IF YOU HAVE MAGNETISM PULL VALVES AS WE TALKED ABOUT EARLIER AND SERVICE. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE GOOD ELECTRICAL CONNECTION AT COILS AND POWER WHEN THAT COIL IS FUNCTIONED. WE ARE AFTER VALVE S3 HERE PROBABLY SO START THERE. HOPE YOU HAVE A WESTERN MANUAL IT WILL SHOW YOU WHICH ONE IT IS. POWER PROBLEM AT COIL CHECK YOUR GRILL CONNECTION FIRST.
     
  15. Joe41

    Joe41 Junior Member
    Messages: 22

    Duh... Your absolutely right! I didn't even think about that.:dizzy: When it acts up the motor still spins, so the controller is sending juice but the valve isn't working. So it has to be the cartridge valves.
     
  16. RepoMan207

    RepoMan207 PlowSite Fanatic
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,031

    All I see is blah blah blah blah. Get rid of the caps. Didn't your mother every tell you it was rude to yell. Same thing here man. :rolleyes:
     
  17. MattR

    MattR Senior Member
    Messages: 218

    When I first bought my plow truck, I had the same problem. I hate to ask the obvious.....but.. Would it be a plugged filter? Or the fluid has water in it and the icing is plugging the filter screen after you use it a bit. When you leave it sit, it allows the slushy ice to raise to the top and then it can work for a bit more until the slush/ice gets sucked back to the filter again. Like I said, just a thought..
     
  18. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Not necessarily. The controller can still be defective. When they're dying they'll send the signal out to the UHS to run the motor but won't send the signal to the valves also. Seen many of them do just that. But doing the magnetism test when it's not functioning will tell you more.

    Tip: Keep a screwdriver or anything made of metal handy on the seat and remove the valve cover ahead of time for quick coil access. Quick check then.
     
  19. Schwinn68

    Schwinn68 Senior Member
    Messages: 164

    We just had a bad controller on one of our trucks Wednesday night. It would work fine then all of a sudden it wouldn't raise up or it would just angle right. The motor was still trying to move the blade but nothing was happening. We took the valves out and inspected them thinking that was the problem then flushed out the fluid and replaced with fresh stuff but the problem was still there. Finally tried a different controller and it started to function normal again.
     
  20. tom.807

    tom.807 Junior Member
    Messages: 23

    Have spare parts

    tymusic
    YEAH THATS WHY I AM STRESSING THE MAGNETISM TEST FIRST. WITH THE OLDER RELAY SYSTEMS MOTOR RUNNING 90% OF THE TIME MENT OK CONTROLLER UNLESS CUSTOMER HAD SWITCHED FROM STICK TO HAND HELD. YOU CAN SAVE ALOT OF TROUBLE SHOOTING BY SIMPLY HAVING A GOOD SPARE CONTROLLER. AS A MECHANIC BY TRADE WE ARE TRAINED TO DIAGNOSE ISSUES TO US IT IS CHEATING TO PLUG AND PLAY. BUT YES A FAILING CONTROLLER SENDS A WEAK SIGNAL NOT ADEQUATE AT COIL . THAT CAN BE CHECKED QUICKLY