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Unimount function speed

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by Chiputz, Nov 15, 2012.

  1. Chiputz

    Chiputz Senior Member
    Messages: 165

    Can someone tell me about how long their Unimount straightblade takes to operate? I just put this 7'6" ProPlow on and it seems slow compared to my old conventional. It takes about 5 seconds for the lift ram to fully extend from being bottomed out in the housing. The angle functions are about the same. Am I going nuts or is it actually moving slow? I'm trying to track down a pressure guage to check the pump pressure but no luck so far.
    I've flushed it twice and cleaned the filter and housing and it didn't make any difference. I also cleaned the motor out and inspected the brushes and commutator, they look like new...Maybe I'm just expecting too much speed out of it?
    I went through the quill adjustment until it started fighting to lift and then backed it out, now it slams on the ground when I lower the blade. If I turn the quill in so it gently drops, it fights to lift... Thanks for any suggestions.:dizzy:
     
  2. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    Bottom line on hydraulic action speed is the volume of oil flowing throuth the pump. The pressure is secondary but if you connect a gauge and go to end of travel on a ram it would tell you if the pressure relief valve is letting go to soon and might give an indication of how much is leaking past the pump gears. Do you have an Isarmatic (intigrated lift ram and hydro assembly) or a Flowstat (seperate lift ram and hydro) Both types were mounted on uni-mounts. If you have the older Isarmatic and have had the pump out you might have lost the o-ring seal that goes between the bottom of the pump and the aluminum pump housing / reservoir. You might also try pulling the valve block off the side, while the pump is out, and blow out the fluid gallary that sends the fluid to the valves. I have seen debree plug that gallary causing very slow operation too.
     
  3. Chiputz

    Chiputz Senior Member
    Messages: 165

    It's the Isarmatic set up. I'll dig into it again tomorrow afternoon. Still trying to track down a pressure gauge to test it. The entire set up is like new, it's an older set up but was used very little. The fluid I drained out initially was pretty nasty so I might as well pull everything apart. I just don't know if I'm expecting too much out of it. Thanks for the input.
     
  4. nealybird

    nealybird Senior Member
    Messages: 716

    Yea, 5 seconds sounds a little slow. not sure what cycle time should be though. looks like the pressure is about the only other thing to check. should be around 1750 psi.
     
  5. Chiputz

    Chiputz Senior Member
    Messages: 165

    Nealybird, I PM'd you with a question. Thanks
     
  6. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    There is always a flowmeter test. A bit more complex than a simple pressure gauge but would tell you displacement per unit of time. If your pump is failing it may well be able to get the pressure up but if the gears are worn the volume will drop as the pressure is increased. But a flow meter is expensive and complex to connect. I think you have a restriction in your main gallary between the pump and the valve body. Just like plugged arteries in you heart, gunk builds up on the walls of the gallary especially if it is not used much and if the wrong kind of oil was in it. I have also seen bits of gaskets stuck in there causing similar sysmptoms.
     
  7. Chiputz

    Chiputz Senior Member
    Messages: 165

    I have a Buddy that's a heavy equipment mechanic that's bringing his pressure gauge over for me to use. It's been kinda hectic here the last couple days and i haven't really messed with it at all. This afternoon is looking open for some more digging into it. When I had the motor off to clean the filter the pump was tight and no play in the shaft or gears that I could tell after I spun the oil out of it by hand. It has to be either low pump pressure or a restricted port in the valve block. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for all the comments!
     
  8. SnowMatt13

    SnowMatt13 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,535

    Owners Manual says 2 seconds full lift and 4 seconds full angle right to full angle left.
    If it fits in this time, it is considered normal.
     
  9. Chiputz

    Chiputz Senior Member
    Messages: 165

    Thanks SnowMatt13, that answered my question, now to find the cause...
     
  10. Chiputz

    Chiputz Senior Member
    Messages: 165

    If I pull the three cartridge valves out of the valve block, will I be able to spray brake clean through the valve block to clean out the passageways without having to take out the quill and the shuttle along with the crossover relief valves? Everything I do to this plow seems to take days because of having to order the seals and o ring kits...
     
  11. Chiputz

    Chiputz Senior Member
    Messages: 165

    I tested the pump and it's right on 1750psi. I guess I'm just being overly cautious about this setup. Thanks for all the great suggestions!
     
  12. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    I would just pull the whole valve block off the pump housing and pull the motor & pump. Two bolts for the valve block (don't loose the o-rings) two bolts for the motor and then the pump bolts. Again, watch for the single o-ring under the pump. That same hole that the pump o-ring seals is the hole to blow through. Oil and air (and crap) will come ot the side where the valve block was. I suppose you could also just leave the valve body on, to leave the seals alone, and pull the pressure test port. Same thing only it will clean out the valve body manifolt drillings too right up to the base of the valves. Pressure test port is just a 1/4" pipe plug with a 1/4" allen key head.
     
  13. Chiputz

    Chiputz Senior Member
    Messages: 165

    If I left the valve block on, wouldn't it push all the crap into the cartridge valves? I'll do that tomorrow, Thanks Mishnick. I appreciate all the great suggestions.
     
  14. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    I don't expect that will be a problem as the fluid flow will carry the debri where ever it goes out. If there was a lot of gunk seen though I would take the valve body off and remove the valves to blow those parts out real good. Just don't take all the little crossover relief valves and so on out unless you are prepared to set them all up again. You could, of course just take those two bolts off and pull the valve body exposing the hole. Then there is no risk of blowing gunk in the valves.