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Unimount angle issue

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by farmerkev, Dec 30, 2011.

  1. farmerkev

    farmerkev Senior Member
    Messages: 847

    Having an issue with the uni on my 99 Chevy. It will angle right just fine, but goes really slow to the left, sometimes slower than others. It also goes up and done just fine. All the truck side is brand new, and it just had all the fluid flushed. What should I be looking for?
     
  2. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,951

    poss the valve is sticking, not opening all the way.
     
  3. Philbilly2

    Philbilly2 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,566

    sounds like your poppet valve is not opening
     
  4. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    Sounds to me like the S3 valve is not opening all the way. S3 stays in default position for right, up and down but must open fully to angle left. Could be debree stuck in it or may be deformed. On an Isarmatic (uni straight blade) the S3 valve is the single valve on the bottom of the valve block. Pull the valve cover off, remove the coil from S3 and then remove the valve cartraige. If the coil comes off hard the stem is swollen or bent. When the valve is out put the coil back on and use jumpers or a nine volt battery to try and make it transition. It should move with a nice click. Sometimes after sitting for a long time they just need to be worked a bit to free them up. Note, be carefull of oil being projected from the valve when you work it, wear glasses to protect your eyes. In my opinion, from your description, this is the problem as it is the only valve that must move only for left angle. In case you don't have it, here is a link to the isarmatic mechanic's guide. Page 17 shows the hydraulic schematic. http://library.westernplows.com/westernplows/pdf/21936_121704.pdf
     
  5. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Huh? Default position is CLOSED. And if it's closed it isn't going to raiser either.

    Like Phil said, most likely a poppet issue.
     
  6. farmerkev

    farmerkev Senior Member
    Messages: 847

    So, Im not gonna lie, now Im just more confused. Makes a little more sense looking at the manual in that link. But I still dont know what to do I guess. :confused: Guess Im just a little slow.
     
  7. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,951

    the fluid has to push the poppet ck valve open. if the poppet is sticking,,,not allowing enough fluid to go past then it will go slow.
     
  8. farmerkev

    farmerkev Senior Member
    Messages: 847

    Dont wanna sound stupid now, but if im looking at the picture on page 9 of the manual in the link mishnick sent, what exactly do I do?
     
  9. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,951

    It would be page 8. Take it out. Watch cause there's a spring and a ball bearing in there. Inspect, clean, ck the seat in the manifold. Spring might have broke, ball might be stuck. Junk might be in there
     
  10. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    On second look I agree with you guys. The S3 must be working or the blade wouldn't go up at normal speed. Sorry. I agree now that the poppet is the prime target. Look on page 8, bottom center of the picture. See the group of parts labelled the "poppet check valve spool assembly." From what the picture shows there is no ball in that assembly but still be careful not to loose anything. The crossover relief valve is right next to that and it does have a ball. The poppet has a screw, a spring and then the valve. There are also o-rings but they are not loose as you might suspect looking at the blow-up. If it won't come out then use a magnet on the side of a small screw driver. Since the surrounding metal is aluminum (non-magnetic) the steal spring and valve spool will come out with the magnetized screw driver.

    Another thought... if the poppet valve is OK then it may be a broken spring in one of the crossover relief valves too. When angling one way the fluid could force the ball to close resulting in normal motion but the other direction would force the free floating ball off its seat allowing fluid to escape back to reservoir. This too could explain the slow movement one way. On page 8 they are shown labelled as "crossover relief valve" and there are two, one on each side of the block. The poppet vavle needs no adjustment but the crossover relief valves need to be adjusted after removal. See page 51 for this, it's not difficult and you don't need any special tools. You just bottom them out and then turn back out the number of turns the guide says, depending on your exact model. Probably 1 1/2 to 2 turns. See page 51. Do you other guys agree with that hypothasis?
     
  11. farmerkev

    farmerkev Senior Member
    Messages: 847

    So I removed the screw, that is labled as the poppit assembly on page 8. The spring was bent and broke when I pulled it out. Should this be as simple as replace and have it working again?
     
  12. Philbilly2

    Philbilly2 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,566

    that's it. sounds like you solved it.
     
  13. farmerkev

    farmerkev Senior Member
    Messages: 847

    Got a bigger issue... Had a friend over when I was pulling the two valves out. Got the lower one out, couldnt reach the pliers in to reach the top one. Went in the house to get my little extendy magnet thing, and while I was gone, my friend tried somehow to get it out and got it stuck. The valve is stuck in sideways now. No clue how to get it out.
     
  14. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,951

    try like a pocket screwdriver??? a pick tool???? long tweesers???? even maybe a an allen wrench??? just something to try and "poke' arond in there??
     
  15. farmerkev

    farmerkev Senior Member
    Messages: 847

    Tried all that actually, and it is lodged! :eek: Actually brought it onto a shop down the road. service guy said hes seen the issue before, but never so bad. Was gonna try a few tricks he said.
     
  16. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,951

    uh o not good.....sorry i really have nothing else,,,just try and stick something dwn there to get it to move or come loose......maybe a skinny punch and a light hammer???
     
  17. farmerkev

    farmerkev Senior Member
    Messages: 847

    The issue seems to be that there is a little nipple (for lack of better term) on the end of the valve. There is also a little hole in the wall of the socket the valve is in, and the nipple found its way in the hole. Last I heard they were gonna try and take a sharp chisel and break the nipple off, and hopefully two smaller parts come out better than one big one.
     
  18. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,951

    yep,,i know exactly what your talking about......sorry to hear,hope it goes good...just make sure you get all the little pieces out.
     
  19. farmerkev

    farmerkev Senior Member
    Messages: 847

    Got it back, dont need a new manifold:redbounce Gonna have to flush it now to make sure everything is out. but hopefully all issues are done now.

    Maybe you guys can help with my question on flushing the system. I know how to drain the old fluid in the pump and all that. But I know Im not suppose to mix plow fluid and tranny fluid, and Im not sure whats in it right now. If I pull the plug the pump will drain but how would I drain the rest of the system to be certain its all out so Im not mixing?
     
  20. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    remove the hoses from the angle rams with the plow up a bit off the ground with a jack. Then manually move the plow from right to left a few times. This will force the fluid out of the rams. Also take the chain off the lift ram and manually raise and lower the ram a few times with the hose off. You can also blow out the hoses with compressed air. If you want to get really into it you could remove the valve cartraiges too. With all the hoses off and the valves out the valve block will almost completly drain. I don't recommend removing the poppets or crossover relief valves though because they need to be adjusted.