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Ultramount Repair

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by sebass, Feb 18, 2016.

  1. sebass

    sebass Junior Member
    Messages: 14

    So doing some what I thought was gonna be mostly minor repair work to my ultra mount 7'6. It had some slop in it which I knew at purchase, but it worked as it should. Got a few days to spend some time on it. The A-arm pivot bolt was really loose and the tube that goes thru the square channels was broken off. Welded it back up. A frame pivots nicely now. Still slop in the blade pivot. So I cut that bolt off and well... Wow! The bolt the top plate was completely broken off in front of the bolt. The hole in the angle iron on the plow was huge and the hole in the bottom plate was all kinds of haggard. Added some reinforcement metal in a few spots but here's my question. Is there any reason I can go to a 1" diameter bolt for the blade pivot instead of the 3/4" that was there?
    I cut the top plate off and widened out the space between the plates on the a frame added another 1/4" plate on the bottom of the angle iron on plow (thought I may have f'ed up doing so but it seems fine when I fit it all together.
    So was gonna add the 1" bolt and a 3" washer under the bolt head to help distribute load on the hole. Thoughts?
    Also replacing all pins and welding light bracket in place while I'm at it.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2016
  2. Western1

    Western1 Senior Member
    from MI.
    Messages: 674

    Only reason not to for me would be less meat around a 1" hole than a 3/4" hole.
     
  3. Snow Commandor

    Snow Commandor Senior Member
    from 07666
    Messages: 439

    I say the bigger the better. I would like to use some sort of bronze bushings if possible.
     
  4. sebass

    sebass Junior Member
    Messages: 14

    I thought about that but I think it would just destroy them.
     
  5. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,339

  6. to_buy

    to_buy Senior Member
    Messages: 221

    TJ that link you sent has some impressive equipment.
     
  7. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,339

    That is my man cave. My Wife knows where I am all the time. I can roll out of bed and walk right into my shop in the garage in 5 seconds. It's great.
    T.J.
     
  8. sebass

    sebass Junior Member
    Messages: 14


    Meh and I thought I had a cool shop. Now I'm jealous. Lol
    Also was thinking of replacing the cutting edge next year is there anything special to it or is it just a nice thick cold rolled?
     
  9. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,339

    Cutting edge, get a specific cutting edge. They are high carbon or AR plate.
    T.J
     
  10. sebass

    sebass Junior Member
    Messages: 14

    Ok. Cool thanks. Wasn't sure but I figured it was special, although my lot is all grass/gravel.
     
  11. sebass

    sebass Junior Member
    Messages: 14

    Can someone take a pic of their a frame and quadrant of how it bolts to the blade? I'm almost thinking I got a uni mount blade on an ultramount frame...
    Edit: nope I'm a tard and can't read a parts diagram.
    What does anyone think about putting a graphite wear strip between the quadrant and the channel it rides in on the a frame?
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2016
  12. Casper1

    Casper1 Member
    Messages: 42

    Graphite is pretty abrasive. I worked for a graphite seal and gasket company years ago. The braider was a maintenance nightmare.

    Here's a quick link to a thread on practical machinist.

    http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/will-graphite-powder-damage-v-ways-156581/
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2016
  13. sebass

    sebass Junior Member
    Messages: 14

    Interesting. Odd that the "good" snowmobile hyfax are graphite. I've never used em but I've heard they don't wear out near as fast.
    Anyway, I found out as I was playing around today there was only slop in the quadrant when the plow was completely straight. On full turn the quadrant was tight. I ended up welding a piece of 1/4" bar stock on top of quadrant in the center. Obviously the bottom side would be better as far as wear is concerned but then it would probably make the blade hop around as it turns.
    [​IMG]
    I don't see anything in the maintenance manual about any kind of lube or wear strip. I feel like there should be some grease at minimum in there.

    I also added to the existing channel. When I fixed the front pivot bolt it ended up moving the quadrant forward about 3/8".
    [​IMG]

    I also changed the location of the center spring. Can access top of bolt with wrench and bottom with socket to torque bolt.
    [​IMG]

    Don't have any snow left to actually do a good test but I tried it out the best I could, seems good so far. Much less slop in the blade.

    Also the rattle can is just to keep everything from rusting for now. I hope to get it blasted an powder coated before next winter and the pics make it look like I painted over a bunch of dirt and shavings but I didn't.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2016