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Ultramount light adjustment

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by dieseltech, Dec 18, 2011.

  1. dieseltech

    dieseltech Senior Member
    Messages: 273

    Well, ive got an ultramount with the single bolt lights. One light is angled properly but the other is aimed up too high. The bolts and nuts on both lights are corroded beyond belief. I have applied penetrant to each and let sit. I tried to loosen the bolt that needs adjustment but to no avail... I have also heated the nut and still no success. If i keep wrenching on it, it will surely break off and then what? I need this adjusted properly and am looking for suggestions as to what others have done. Is there a way to fix it if it breaks off? Just looking for options before i have to drop 250 on a new set of lights.
     
  2. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,946

    I would try the blue wrench again, red hot always works. If not, cut the bolt off, drill the rivets new s.s. carage bolt, either rerivet or nut and bolt. Then don't forget to antiseeze it all.
     
  3. dieseltech

    dieseltech Senior Member
    Messages: 273

    Thats what i was thinking. But wasnt sure if it would turn out the way i wanted it to
     
  4. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,946

    Well sometimes the way you want and the reality, is 2 totally different things lol. As long as you don't crack the plastic you should be fine
     
  5. Second Nature

    Second Nature Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 67

    Have been here and done this exact repair a week ago.

    The bolt-stud and nut become corroded to the point of lockup. Once it gets this bad, your chances of loosening...adjusting...and tightening are less than 20%. You might get to do it once, but chances are you'll strip something or find it impossible to re-tighten with the light correctly adjusted.

    I talked to my Western dealer and bought a headlight housing. No bulbs or reflectors or wires...just the rear part of the light and the bottom stud assembly. Remove the front bezel screws and proceed to "gut" out your old light. Once it's down to a shell, you can cut the main stud (actually fairly soft steel) between the 2 cup washers. Use a recip saw and know that you will damage the bottom cup washer, so pick up an extra one when you get the light. It helps to have an extra set of hands on this job. After the nasty work of cutting the stud is complete, pick up the bottom piece and slam-dunk it into your trash can with a curse.

    Put the wiring, bulbs, lenses etc into the new housing and reconnect all wires. Check for function, then put bezel screws back in place. Check again. Be sure cup washers are good and reinstall headlight into light tower. Use NeverSeize when installing the nut. Aim and tighten.
     
  6. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,946

    That's way to expensive and to time consuming. Plus the dealer wants you to buy parts. You might spend 10 bucks to repair the old one? The back housing is like 35 40. Plus all the wiring that needs to be done? Why?
     
  7. dieseltech

    dieseltech Senior Member
    Messages: 273

    Yea i thought about that route too. My dealer wanted 49 bucks just for the housing...
     
  8. clc2007

    clc2007 Member
    Messages: 74

    Cut the nut of with a dremal! Then just replace the nut and clean the bolt.
     
  9. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,946

    Little elbow grease. Plus you know how to do it.
     
  10. Second Nature

    Second Nature Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 67

    It's the only reasonable thing to do if the stud is too corroded and unusable. The stud is integral to the light housing and can't be replaced by itself. My light stud after 8 years was nothing but a wasted chunk of corroded metal with a nut on it. Even if the nut would come off, very good chance the stud remains unusable. If you wrench on the nut hard enough, you'll either break the stud or screw up the lower light housing which holds the stud's square shoulders between 2 riveted metal plates.

    You either can loosen and adjust, or you can't. If you can't...repair it the right way. The last thing I want is a rusty stud giving way on a 10 degree night and letting my lights flop.
     
  11. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,946

    What do you mean that's the only way to do it? Drilling out the rivets and installing a s.s. carage bolt? That's easier and more permanent fix. Not to mention cheaper. If you do get the nut off, just die it and you should be fine
     
  12. dieseltech

    dieseltech Senior Member
    Messages: 273

    Well that nut aint comin off...i wrench hot or cold and it turns a bit but squeels as im turning, which in my experience tells me its gonna break. While both ideas are options ill try and drill out the old bolt and replace with a new one. If that fails me i may order a new housing reluctantly unless i get a bug up my ass to spend some money and buy some replacements. Any other suggestions? Thanks guys
     
  13. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,946

    Just heat and turn. Squeaking ain't a total bad thing. The only other thing I might do is die the bolt up to the nut.
     
  14. Second Nature

    Second Nature Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 67

    You still have to gut the light to drill out all the rivets (8 I think) and replace them. If the nut won't turn off the stud, you still have to cut it in two somewhere...likely between the cup washers. I don't rightly recall whether a carriage bolt would correctly fit into the upper cup washer, which has a square hole. My upper washer was rounded from trying to turn the seized nut...which rotated the stud causing damage.

    Maybe I'm lazy (not)...maybe I like knowing I have a new clean assembly. Time is money too...and I didn't find the $35 housing objectionable. No biggie. I respect anyone who can do a good repair and save money. To each his own.

    :waving:
     
  15. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,946

    Should be cut the nut at the bolt. Below the light bracket. The carage bolt is standard size throughout. Last time I did one, I didn't have to gut the light, I did it on the truck so to speak
     
  16. dieseltech

    dieseltech Senior Member
    Messages: 273

    Seems the biggest pain is the space restriction under the tower
     
  17. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,946

    How? You have all the room it the world to cut the nut off. Torch, sawzall, cutoff tool.
     
  18. dieseltech

    dieseltech Senior Member
    Messages: 273

    I think the world is a bit extreme! Lol
     
  19. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,946

    Nah, never!!
     
  20. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,946

    heres what it looks like. now its only going on a piece of equipment so i wasnt so worried about all the s.s. hardware. I did drill out the holes bigger b/c I didnt fell like going out and getting the correct size. so I drilled out to a 1/4 and then 1" bolts and lock washers. grad total for the one light..........15 mins.

    IMAG0234.jpg