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Turn signals acting up

Discussion in 'Blizzard Plows Discussion' started by blizhos, Dec 23, 2009.

  1. blizhos

    blizhos Junior Member
    from Midwest
    Messages: 12

    just had a 760LT (2006 leftover, still in crate) mounted on my 2008 Silverado 1500. When I turn on either turn signal they blink normal for a couple blinks then the blink speed doubles or more (meaning they blink faster). I asked the installer and he said this was normal as I'm drawing more current due to the extra plow lights....I'm no electrician, but I think he's blowing smoke. Anyone know if this is normal or how to fix? :help:
     
  2. Mark Witcher

    Mark Witcher Senior Member
    Messages: 604

    My 2008 Ford F450 does the same thing. Its similar to hooking up a trailer , which causes the blinker relay to signal faster. Thats why for years you had to buy a heavy duty relay when you towed. My ford has seperate system for front and rear blinkers.
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2009
  3. Pristine PM ltd

    Pristine PM ltd PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,794

    You might have a light out and not realize it. Check your lights with the controller disconnected, see if there is anything that isn't normal. Even check mirror lights.
     
  4. augerandblade

    augerandblade PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,054

    check for a good ground to the lights.
     
  5. beam

    beam Senior Member
    from pa
    Messages: 314

    that is a good dealer cause it sends them people my way instead check for good ground a light tower hook up grind paint a little and gat a heavy duty turn relay and problem should go away
     
  6. blizhos

    blizhos Junior Member
    from Midwest
    Messages: 12

    Went out last night and inspected things. No bulbs were burned out. The other day when I noticed the problem, the problem existed in both left and right turn signals. Last night it was only in the left turn signal. I didn't do much but remove the fuse box cover (a wire goes into the fuse box and connects to the misc fuse) and also check the ground connection. When I checked the lights again, neither of the turn signals had any problems. I'm not sure I perminently fixed the problem, nor do I know what it was that I did that stopped the problem, but I'm going to keep an eye on it and make sure it gets fixed perminently. I'll keep you all posted.
     
  7. Sharpcut 1

    Sharpcut 1 Senior Member
    Messages: 386

    Some of the 07 and up Chevy's with the headlights that both stay on when you hit the brights require an additional relay be added to the headlight harness, You should see 3 relays on both sides of the truck. Also, if you have the turn signals in the mirrors, there is an addition relay kit that must be installed, as there is too much of a draw on the turn signals with the extra lights. Go to Powermatch on the Blizzard sight, and punch in your truck. If it shows two part numbers for the headlight kit that start with 29 numbers, you need the extra relay kit installed.Also appies to running light citcuit if you have cab lights. This also applies to Colorado trucks. The exra relay will have a black and red wire coming off the battery with an inline fuse, if you follow the wiring, you will find 2 purple and 2 grey wires going to a plastic box. This is the extra relay module. Good luck.
     
  8. blizhos

    blizhos Junior Member
    from Midwest
    Messages: 12

    Wow Sharpcut...now I'm sure I have no idea if i have the right stuff in there or not...I'm guessing obviously not since this morning I went out and still had intermitten problems with the turn signals. I'm going to have to have someone look at this that knows what the hell they are looking at!
     
  9. Sharpcut 1

    Sharpcut 1 Senior Member
    Messages: 386

    I checked the Blizzard website, and you need both the 29454 and 29279 Blizzard harness installed on your truck. If both kits were'nt put in, that could be your problem. Trace the wires off of your battery like I said to see if the extra relays were installed.
    P.S. I install these for a living.
     
  10. blizhos

    blizhos Junior Member
    from Midwest
    Messages: 12

    Sharpcut, I'll try to explain what I see coming off the battery....

    Off the Negative terminal on the battery is the large black cable that goes to the plow I believe AND a small black wire that goes to a 'solenoid' (as its called in the manual) which is mounted on the firewall (has four posts). Should the small black wire coming off the solenoid go to a ground and not to the battery?

    Off of the Positive terminal on the battery is a large Red cable that goes to a post on the solenoid mentioned above.

    Off the remaining two posts of the solenoid above are a large red cable that goes to the plow (coincides with large black cable that comes off negative terminal of battery), and a small red wire that goes to the front of the truck under the cowl (can't tell for sure, but believe it connects to the brown/white wire that is from the light bar wiring harness.

    Otherwise, all I saw during install was the wiring harness for the lights, and two bundles of connectors that plugged into the back of the truck headlights/turn signals.

    I'm going to call the boys that installed and have them give me the part numbers of what they installed to see if I'm not missing something.

    Thanks, hos
     
  11. blizhos

    blizhos Junior Member
    from Midwest
    Messages: 12

    Well, more problems...unrelated most likely but don't know.

    Went to hook up this afternoon, pulled up, plugged in power, and the toggle on the pump housing on the plow would only work in the down direction ($##%@#$#$@#$). Switched power to the cab joystick and raised the arm/plow to install hitch pins and off I went. Everything works fine from the joystick....after plowing, checked and still the pump housing toggle only works in the down (dismount) direction.

    PITA!
     
  12. blizhos

    blizhos Junior Member
    from Midwest
    Messages: 12

    Sharpcut...regarding the two numbers you provided for the wiring, I only get those to show up on powermatch when I put in a mount for a 720LT...does it matter that I have a 760LT?

    hos
     
  13. blizhos

    blizhos Junior Member
    from Midwest
    Messages: 12

    Got to thinking some more about install, I do remember now that there was a set of relays that were mounted near each headlamp on the truck...would these be the two relays (part numbers) you are refering to Sharpcut?

    After reading the installation instructions, I think the small black wire from the solenoid does indeed need to go to a ground (frame, ect.) and not to the negative terminal on the battery as it is now. Could this be causing the havoc I'm having with the lights and now the power hitch operation?

    Sorry for all the ignorance...still new to all this. Thanks
     
  14. Sharpcut 1

    Sharpcut 1 Senior Member
    Messages: 386

    Truck end wiring for a 720 and 760 are identical. If you pay attention, your 2008 chevy will light up the high and low beams when you put on the high beams on the truck. Since Blizzard uses only one bulb for high and low beam, they dont want power going to both the high and low beams at the same time. For this purpose, your installer should of added a 3rd relay to each side of your headlight wiring harness. if you follow the back of your headlight wiring, you should end up finding 3 relays per side(for a total of 6) that control your plow headlights. They will havean assortment of Green, Yellow, an black wires going to them.The third relay is needed for 2007 and up Chevys to shut off the low beam when high beams are on.

    The wiring off your solenoid should be as follows: One big red wire from Batt. to big stud, other big stud has red wire going out to wiring harness in front of truck. One small terminal will have brown w/white stripe coming from controler to power up solenoid, and other small stud MUST fo to batt. Negative. Do not use a body ground, as core support is mounted on rubber and won't give good ground. As far as the claw not going up, could be a power hitch switch problem, or diode loop problem under the black cover that houses your pump. if solenoid is not grounded to battery, that may also be your problem.

    As far as the 720 only showing up on power match, that is because the 760 is no longer an approved application for your truck according to Douglas Dynamics. When they bought out Blizzard a few years back, they revised a lot of the applications they thought were a legal liability, in case you got in an accident and hurt someone,they can claim they never approved that application for that truck.

    As far as your turn signal problem, you should find a little black plastic box approx. 2 inches long by one inch wide with 2 grey, 2 purple, one red, and one black wire coming out of it. Purple wires should tie back into your turn signal wires, and blac and red should run back to the battery. They will be thin, 16-18 ga. wires. This is the extra module(relays) for turn signal load. The new trucks circuits are designed to be near capacity, and the extra bulb from the plow will push them over the limit. There is a chance you may get away with replacing your turn flasher with a HEAVY DUTY TOW UNIT and your problem may go away. Most times the extra module will be needed, especially if your mirrors have the turn signals in them, as I stated before. If the lights are blinking fast, unplug the plow light while the blinker is blinking fast. If the truck blinker slows up to normal, you got too much load. Double check all your grounds are tight on battery and in headlight. Pluu the 4 screws holding the headlight, the ground wire will be white with red stripe, and will branch out from harness to headlight and running light, it's a plug in bullit connector under electrical tape.

    Good luck and let us know how you make out.
     
  15. blizhos

    blizhos Junior Member
    from Midwest
    Messages: 12

    Checked the invoice, both the DZ29279 and DZ29454 are listed on it, so I'd assume they were installed. I'm going to pull the fan cover this afternoon or tomorrow to take a better look and report back. Plan on calling them first thing Monday to see what can be done.

    hos
     
  16. blizhos

    blizhos Junior Member
    from Midwest
    Messages: 12

    Update...

    Still haven't confirmed if all the wiring and relays that are necessary are correctly installed, but after some messing around last night I found that with the truck RUNNING both turn signals blink twice as fast as normal; with the truck OFF, and key on the left one blinks twice as fast and the right one blinks normal. If I unplug the plow lights the truck turn signals go back to normal.

    In addition, now not only does the power hitch arm not go up, but it wont go down either....so plow is stuck on truck!
     
  17. blizhos

    blizhos Junior Member
    from Midwest
    Messages: 12


    Thinking I need the heavy duty relay (installer said this would be the only fix to the blinker delema)...where is this turn signal relay on the truck that I swap out for the heavy duty one? When they installed the wiring harness, there were two relays that were mounted on either side of the truck up by the headlights on the truck, assuming these are the two part numbers Sharpcut was referring to.

    As for the switch issue (power arm switch on blow doesn't work), having them send me a new switch and a new joystick to determine which is the problem. Hopefully have that solved tomorrow.
     
  18. blizhos

    blizhos Junior Member
    from Midwest
    Messages: 12

    bump/update....

    Replaced the powerhitch switch on the plow and we're back up and running in that department.

    As for the turn signal situation, turns out the turn signal flasher in the newer silverados are electric flashers so swapping out with a heavy duty is a bit more complicated. Anyone have any further suggestions for a solution for the turn signal problem?

    hos
     
  19. blizhos

    blizhos Junior Member
    from Midwest
    Messages: 12

    Turn signal problem solved! Thanks to Jerre!! Replaced plow turn bulbs with LED's, no more hyperflash.

    hos