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Truck Stalling

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by matt20matt, Oct 27, 2006.

  1. matt20matt

    matt20matt Junior Member
    Messages: 2

    Last year i put a western uni-mount plow on my 2001 silverado and ever since there has been a draw down on the engine without the plow even on.. For example every time you slow down to a stop the engine rpm's go lower than an idol and the alternator guage drops to around 10 Amps then it picks back up to normal. This pulsates like this when the truck is just sitting idling. Sometime it even quits. you could be going from Fwd. to Rev. and the RPM's drop and the truck quites. I was wondering if someone may have had a problem like this or something i could try to prevent this. Everything on the truck is stock. I didn't know if i needed to get a bigger alternator or if it would even help. Thanks for any help.

    Matt
     
  2. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    Does it start ok or is it hard to start too? Does it operate ok under any circumstances?
     
  3. matt20matt

    matt20matt Junior Member
    Messages: 2

    Yeah it usaully starts ok but when it stalls it sometimes turns over more than usual before it starts. In most conditions it works fine even with the plow on. But when using the plow the AMP guage does go down when moving it but this other thing is when the plow isn't even on. I don't know if it might be somthing with the truck or something with the plow wiring drawing dawning too much power.
     
  4. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    I would bet your problem is the Idle Air Control Valve, it controls your engines idle speed .
    It feeds air to the engine to regulate the idle / anti dieseling in fuel injected engines. Your seeing the drop in voltage because the alternator is not getting the minimum RPM it needs to operate. So all the power using stuff now draws off of the battery dropping the voltage in the whole system. The computer starts to shut down with low voltage.
    The IAC is mounted to the intake manifold, as they start to fail the idle becomes poor and soon the truck will not idle at all. The emissions setup does not let you adjust idle, the IAC does it. It's like a $65 part if it's available at a parts store, $110 + at the Stealer
    2 bolts hold it on with a 2 wire pigtail to it.
    You might have the charging system checked too. Most big parts stores will do it for free, they are hoping to sell you parts and batteries.
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2006
  5. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    Could also be a shot fuel pressure regulator. Mine went bad and it started hard and idled badly. Its on teh driver's side directly above the valve cover. Engine off pull the small vacuum line off...if its empty you're ok and need to look elsewhere, if fuel comes out of the line you have a bad FPR and need to replace it. About $50-75 depending on what auto stores have in stock.
     
  6. REAPER

    REAPER 2000 Club Member
    from 60050
    Messages: 2,228

    Replace your fuel filter.
     
  7. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    Another way to check fuel pressure regulator is to pull the vacuum line off when it's running. The RPM will rise a bit when you do it. If you unplug the IACV that I mentioned above the truck should die. Like I said above, I would bet it's the IACV that's bad. On 3/4's of fuel injected engines, the parts involved are all the same from brand to brand. I have the Haynes Fuel injection manual. It says the same thing,Idle problems are IACV - 9 times out of 10.