1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

truck dying problem

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by Garet, Jul 30, 2001.

  1. Garet

    Garet Senior Member
    Messages: 106

    Just installed my Carter 600 carb. The problem is when I pin the throttle and let off the truck dies and has trouble starting. Am I flooding the thing out? Also, what should the average oil pressure be at about 800 rpm's? I am getting about only 10. I am running 10w30. Is this too low?

    Garet
     
  2. Garet

    Garet Senior Member
    Messages: 106

    more info

    Also I am running bosch plat plugs. 8 mm hei wire and a 79 DELCO REMY HEI. I don't know how good the distributor is. My friend was commenting on the amount of advance that it was putting out. Said it was pretty high. What can too much advance do?
     
  3. John DiMartino

    John DiMartino PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 2,154

    It sounds like the carb is rich,you might have the float set a little to high,or need to adjust the idle mixture.I have also seen slightly sticky linkage that holds the throttle open a hair-until you stomp it,and let off quick,then it returns all the way and stalls.So check that too.The slightly sticky linkage will be enough to let it idle.
     
  4. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    On the oil pressure question, I seem to recall hearing or reading somewhere that for a small-block Chevy, 10 psi per thousand RPM was a good "ballpark" figure. So 10 psi at 800 rpm sounds like it should be OK - providing that the engine is fully warmed up when you're getting that reading and it goes up quickly when your rpm's pick up.

    As far as advance goes, basically too much advance can cause detonation/preignition but that's over-simplifying things a bit. Are you talking about vacumn advance or centrifugal advance?

    When your friend was referring to the amount of advance the distributor was putting out, I'm guessing you're referring to vacumn advance. If you check the timing at idle without unhooking the vacumn advance can, it's going to read the timing as being advanced pretty far. If your engine is reasonably close to stock trim, I would think you should have about 6 - 8 degress BTDC for your timing reading with the engine idling & the vacumn advance disconnected.

    My experience with HEI is that it's pretty reliable and there isn't much "in-between": it either works or it doesn't. Unlike the points-and-condenser systems where there is a gradual delcine in performance as points wear/gap increases etc.
     
  5. bummerkit

    bummerkit Member
    Messages: 38

    when you pin the throttle is the motor warmed up? it sounds like its running rich to me.
     
  6. Garet

    Garet Senior Member
    Messages: 106

    warm

    Yeah the motor is warned up. Also, it only dies when I am driving it and pin it. Not when I rev it in idle.
     
  7. bummerkit

    bummerkit Member
    Messages: 38

    has the truck been in the mud alot? i had the same problem with my blazer it sucked alot of mud and stuck the metering rods and stuff. mine bogged down if i pinned it while driving too.
     
  8. Garet

    Garet Senior Member
    Messages: 106

    mudding

    Nope, haven't had her in the mud after installing the new stuff. I just put in a new HEI rebuild kit with a 50,000 volt coil and special advance options in hopes of preventing flooding but all it did was throw my timing off. Peak performance is a never ending battle.... BTW does anybody know where I can buy just the bare part of a HEI distributor. One without the module, coil, cap, rotor, weights, and v advance?

    Garet
     
  9. 75

    75 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,382

    Not sure how a rebuild on the HEI system will prevent flooding - if that much gas is pouring in nothing's going to make it fire!

    I'd be checking out the carb & related fuel system components. Is the carb new/rebuilt/or used & been sittin'? Maybe the float is a little sticky? (Been getting "attitude" from the carb on my welding machine lately, and it's probably the carb. Getting it checked out) Do you smell and/or see gas when it dies and you have trouble re-starting it? How is your fuel pump & filters? The engine needs more fuel when accelerating under load than idle, possibly it's starving for fuel when you "pin it" while driving - that's just a guess.

    Sounds like you just want the casting, drive gear & shaft. Not sure about brand new, but any HEI unit from a V-8 you have lying around should provide you with those parts.

    What parts were in the rebuild kit? Did you make major alterations to your centrifugal and vacumn advance when you rebuilt the distributor?

    Just trying to get as much information brought to light on your situation, that makes it easier to try & help you out!
     
  10. Garet

    Garet Senior Member
    Messages: 106

    Fuel

    The fuel pump is only putting out about 4 psi right now. It needs to be replaced. I have a brand new Carter 600 and it requires 6 psi. I have never smelt gas or seen smoke coming out when it dies. The fuel filter is new. The kit came with a rotor, cap, vac advance, weights, coil, and module. The other pieces on the HEI look a little worn. Like the mounting poles that the weights attach to. They are loose. Especially the middle weight's poles. The drive gear doesn't look to bad but I don't really know how to check for wear on it. The V advance does allow a little more advance. I am not sure how much but the space in which is has room to move is definately bigger than the old one.

    Other than that the intake is showing around 20 on the vaccuum guage. No overheating and decent oil pressure.

    How about this. What problems would incorrect lifter adjustment cause? I hear no ticking from the valve covers.

    BTW, what are the best plugs to run for offroad performance? How about gap specs? I can put a little mroe gap if I have a hotter coil right?