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Trans cooler upgrade

Discussion in 'Equipment, Tools & Vehicle Pictures' started by thewizard, Feb 19, 2010.

  1. thewizard

    thewizard Member
    Messages: 51

    bought me a tru cool max cooler. its rated for 40,000 lbs and 45,000 btu of cooling efficiency. i got it from http://www.bulkpart.com/ they have alot of nice trans stuff there. the kit was about $150 but its totally worth it.
    me and some friends have been runnning these coolers for a few years on mud trucks with huge ass 57" tires and high horsepower motors. theres alot of shifting an auto when your beatin the truck in the mud and these coolers keep all that heat down and have nice thread on fittings so you can hook real deal hydraulic lines to it if your trans has high line pressures like the stuff we run. a friend of mine has this cooler on his motorome. its a 35 foot class A with a ford 460 and an E4OD. he pulls a 30 foot trailer behind it with a mud truck and usually a bunch of quads and a rhino. its always overlaoded and comin in at about 15k total trailer weight. on the way to michigan we were rolling the PA turnpike, and if any of you know that road you know is one hill after another. the whole way his trans never went above 125!!!

    heres the tru cool fresh out of the box. its a biggin!!
    [​IMG]

    heres my old coolers. mainly used the one to the left, i added the other small one just recently for a little bit more while plowing.
    [​IMG]

    here is the tru cool installed. its a tight fit and i ended up using some of the bracketry they sent me and some threaded rod and nuts to make spaced studs ont he bottom for the right positioning.
    [​IMG]
     
  2. sven_502

    sven_502 Senior Member
    from ontario
    Messages: 390

    Damn, I want to see pics of this motorhome setup now. Looks like a good deal for 150 bucks.
     
  3. thewizard

    thewizard Member
    Messages: 51

    heres a pic, his mud tuck is a little bigger now as you can see in the second pic. motor home and trailer 65 mph all day as long as theres no big hills
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  4. Sydenstricker Landscaping

    Sydenstricker Landscaping PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,882

    That truck just earned first place for being bad a$$!!!!!
     
  5. linckeil

    linckeil PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,265

    did you bypass the radiator cooler? or does the trans fluid still flow through that first, then go to your aftermarket cooler?
     
  6. sven_502

    sven_502 Senior Member
    from ontario
    Messages: 390

    Cool setup, thats pretty damn long. Whats he average with that like 6 or 7 mpg?
     
  7. PTSolutions

    PTSolutions PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,533

    im guessing his came stock with an external trans cooler and hes just swapping out.

    im gonna look into those, thanks for posting! and nice trucks!
     
  8. Milwaukee

    Milwaukee 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,180



    You kidding that is overload to me. I am amazing that E40D still work after tow that weight. :eek: Get 4-5 mpg?

    Nice crewcab truck.


    Great time for you change all transmission lines now. We just replaced all lines on 95 F250 they were rot badly that ready to leak.
     
  9. thesnowman269

    thesnowman269 Senior Member
    Messages: 954

    I wouldnt be surprised, Wizard seems to be a gear head (no offense, I am too) so naturally and well obviously (look at what hes towing) his friends are too, sooo I bet that there RV was beefed up some for towing
     
  10. thewizard

    thewizard Member
    Messages: 51

    yes, i would say the trailer is overloaded. every trip we have been on, ( and we usually travel in a large group of rigs), him, and the rest of us constantly blow tires on the trailers. stock motor homes are not meant to pull a trailer of this size, the hitch is not set up for that and will break off. his motor home has been reinforced underneath to accomidate pulling the load. it actually does a little better than 4-5mpg, i think he calculated as high as 8mpg if i recall. even 4-5 mpg would be alright when you consider that your bringin your house with you an you dont gotta pay for a hotel. we all went from jersey to florida and the time i rode with him and the family we filled 3 times on the way there and 3 times on the way back. i beleive it was a 50 gallon tank in it. the pic with the truck when it was on 49" iroks, then the trans was stock. it made 3 trips on a completely stock trans to florida and back. he eventually had the trans "built" by the same guy that built the trans in the mud truck. the only reason was because before he had the big cooler on it, he cooked the trans a little bit when we were in stop and go traffic in brevard county florida on the way to see some people. we seen smoke in traffic and were laugin at the guy next to us but in reality it was us makin smoke lol.
     
  11. thewizard

    thewizard Member
    Messages: 51

    on my truck i dont use the factory cooler. i burned up a trans a few years back and i didnt want any contamination from the exploded tranny getting into my new E4OD. even if you still use your factory cooler in series with this one you will get alot of cooling effect. your trans cooler in the radiator is on the cold side of the radiator. it is not at the temp your engine is at.
     
  12. thewizard

    thewizard Member
    Messages: 51

    and since i teased you with a couple pics of mudtrucks, heres a couple of my truck
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    and one more of me gettin my squirrel on hahahahaha
    [​IMG]
     
  13. linckeil

    linckeil PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,265

    a lot of guys bypass the radiator trans cooler and go right to the auxilary cooler because the radiator is known to develop pin hole leaks and the antifreeze starts to mix with the trans fluid - not good for the trans... when i was plumbing new lines on my e4od i was debating on doing this. i ended up running to the radiator, then the auxilary cooler cus its a new radiator, and i figured the factory did it for a reason.

    anyway, do you run a trans temp gauge? where in the setup did you plumb your sending unit?
     
  14. thewizard

    thewizard Member
    Messages: 51

    a leakin factory cooler had crossed my mind, water is just as bad for an auto as heat and it is extremely hard to get water out of an auto, if not impossible without takin it apart. when you drive through lakes for fun you find this out pretty quickly lol

    i deffinetly run a gauge for my temp.i was running an autometer electric unit, but then my front shaft came out of the truck goin down the road in a storm and it wacked the sender, destroying it. bought a new sender to install, but it was either a factory defective unit or i have an issue with the wiring from when the shaft came out. not having time to wait or mess with it right now i just temporarily installed an autometer mechanical water temp gauge in its place.

    my sender is in the side of my pan. the pan is one of the truest spots to read the temp. inline install in the cooling lines will give a false reading. i found a steel threaded pipe coupler to weld into the side of the pan. i made it larger than the little electric sender and adapt it down to size. this allowed me to put in the larger mechaincal unit with out any issues. finding a spot on my pan was easy because i have a large capacity steel cooling pan on there with plenty of room, unlike the stock E4OD pan.

    if any of you gys decides to try and weld in a bung for the temp sender, make sure you get some rtv transmission sealent for it. suposedly the stuff is made for use in environments where ATF if present. if you are good with a TIG welder you wont need this but with a Mig it is pretty hard to really seal a weld.
     
  15. thewizard

    thewizard Member
    Messages: 51

    well, got to beat on my cooler a little this week and see how it performs.

    cruisin around town without the plow, but with approx 1500lb of ballast in the bed for plowing, the needle on my gauge didnt move. it starts at 140.

    i towed some junk to the scrap yard this week and came over the scale at just about 17k lbs gross. the trip was all back roads, about 30 minutes, and never in over drive and the needle didnt move.

    when your not in over drive your trans makes more heat. in od, the convetor is in lock up and not multiplying fluid. alot of trans heat is from the convetor multiplying the fluid, multiplyied fluid creates friction in the fluid creating the heat.
    if your towing a big load i dont reccommend tryin to stay in overdrive if the truck cant handle it. i only use it towing when i can stay above 55 with out alot of hills. my flat deck tailer weighs 3k empty and i leave od off until im good and going with this even when its empty.

    had a little storm here today, maybe 4 inches. at 3 am driving in 4wd doing 35-45 the whole way for bout 40 minutes, ballast in the bed, NO overdrive, with the blade cocked and slightly lowered i ran it up to 160. once on site i bullshitted with my buddies for ten minutes with the truck off, temp gauge went back to its starting point and stayed there. might have raised up off the black line a hare the whole time pushing, drove down the highway in 4wd to another site, then back to the first site then back down the highway to another site near the second one and the gauge never moved.

    on the ride home in 2wd no hubs locked in it rose to 150 by the time i hit the neighbor hood.

    im guessing that air restriction is causing all of the temps to come up but they still are pretty cold and nice if you ask me. im really happy with this unit and reccommend it to everybody. the approx $150 for it could be the difference between a profitable winter for you and one spent working essentially for nothing. when i blew up the trans the first time i spent 3 grand on a new one:realmad:
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2010