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Trading in plow truck question

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by BRL, Apr 27, 2001.

  1. BRL

    BRL PlowSite.com - Veteran
    Messages: 1,277

    My 88 F250 needs around $2,000.00 of front end work (most likely due to having a plow on that truck which is not supposed to have a plow, according to the spring guy LOL). So since I lost a mason dump early in the snow season, and I don't need extra trucks for the summer season, I've decided to trade this one in for a new and sorely needed dump truck. The F250 has a Fisher 7.5 Minute Mount with belt drive pump. Being new to buying new trucks, should I take that plow off & try to sell it separate, or just leave it on & hope it adds some to the trade in value? If I do separate it, do I also take off the mounting hardware on the truck side, or just assume that if someone were to buy it, they'd have to get their own stuff to match their truck anyway? Thanks for any help.
  2. GeoffD

    GeoffD PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 2,266

    I trade my trucks every 5 years or so.

    99% of the time I drive the truck in with the plow, and sander if it has one, and give it to the dealership.

  3. Deere John

    Deere John Senior Member
    Messages: 410

    BRL - at this point in the year, I'd spend the 2-3 hours it takes to yank the harness and pump out of your trade-in. Three reasons - most dealers probably still have a lot- truck with a plow hung on it, left over from the winter. If you see one, that's because they can't move it at this time of year with the blade on it, and they are probably scratching their noodles about pulling the blade off to sell the truck.

    Secondly, common thought says: plow = worked hard. You may not get the trade-in value you figure the truck is worth with the blade attached.

    Lastly, in September or October, that Fisher will be worth more than you will get for it at this time of year. I'd be sparking up the torch and cutting that mount off if it were me. Give it a One-gallon tune-up on a rain day, and figure you just put money in the bank.
  4. plowking35

    plowking35 2000 Club Member
    from SE CT
    Messages: 2,923

    If you are trading take the plow off. If you are selling out right, which I would do, leave the plow on.
    I really cant see how you need 2 k in front end work, unless the entire front axel assembly needs to be replaced. But new is a good way to go.
  5. BRL

    BRL PlowSite.com - Veteran
    Messages: 1,277

    Thanks guys. I can't remember everything my mechanic mentioned. Some of the things were; the springs are shot, brakes are shot, ball joints, tie rod, something else with the steering, shocks on all 4 corners, plus more. It was close enough for me to call it 2 grand. If I can make a little time before it gets traded I'll probably take the plow off. I'm going shopping tomorrow. The good news is my brother in law has a good friend who is an appraiser at a dealer & he will probably be able to get me a decent price. We'll see what happens.
  6. Tommy10plows

    Tommy10plows Senior Member
    Messages: 345

    trade in

    Well, speaking as a belt drive guy for my plows, you will be surely disappointed at the loss of reliability and the electrical load requirements that a new plow motor will place on your truck. Your plow has real steel in it, not old refrigerators and washers recyled into plows. That undercarriage is strong as an ox, you could pull a fuel truck out with it. Plus you have the best - no payments on the truck. Don't expect to get more than 2 -3 grand for your truck, and for that kind of $$$ i would keep it as a backup, only license it in winter.

    Shocks, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. are all maintenance related items. No major deal. Fix and keep I say.

    If you do want to trade it, keep the plow and the undercarraige, the pump lift assy, and sell it next fall. That is really where the value is in your truck.
  7. MOE

    MOE PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 24

    When I was in the market for a used plow truck I wouldn't look at a truck with a plow on it. No matter how good it looks, it been worked hard and there only a certain amount of "use" (read abuse)a truck can handle before it starts to need major $

    Got burned once, I bought a nice 88 2500 suburban with a new paint job and a 7-6 western. After 3 years and I put in a tranny, rear end, springs, radiator, a/c comp, condensor, starter, alternator, U joints,water pump, steering box, rblt the engine, and then it just fell apart from all the rust that was hidden by the body work. It was a great plow truck though and believe it or not I miss it.

    Moe from Monsey
  8. slplow

    slplow PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 594

    I would buy your new truck now and sell your 88 in sept as it now. You will get good $$ for it also nothing from your plow set up now will fit the newer fords As for the electric pumps and motors they are fast and very reliable with not much draw on the batt. I would all so go with the f350 for the better front end set up. Good luck.
  9. Deere John

    Deere John Senior Member
    Messages: 410

    At what point in the Ford lineup does one get the model 60 (as opposed to the model 50) front axle? (Geoff?)

    JD PLOWER PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 751

    Axle size.

    John, If I remember correctly Ford's F-350 dually is when the larger Dana 60 front end comes back into the lineup.
  11. Dockboy

    Dockboy Guest
    Messages: 0

    JD's right,

    F350 dually is the first one with a front dana 60.